Just Cavalli Pre-Fall 2020

Just Cavalli has rediscovered its boldest soul for pre-fall.
The brand’s internal design team took inspiration from the sensual, free and irreverent atmosphere of Studio 54 to create a collection for women who want to steal the spotlight.
Just Cavalli’s signature wild animal motifs took center stage in the lineup. Maxi tiger stripes in a hot pink and black combination were splashed on asymmetric dresses worked in shiny fabrics, while black and white leopard spots popped up on the giant ruffle framing the silhouette of a feminine frock and gave a twist to a mannish camel coal injected with military flair. The collection included multicolor python motifs, which, for example, were used on the sheer details of a mini flared dress.
Asymmetric cuts, plunging V-necks and sparkling effects, conveyed with the use of shimmering fringes and Lurex inserts, gave an audacious attitude to the lineup, which was strong on revisited staples, such as Seventies suits and sexy frocks, filtered through Just Cavalli’s quintessentially rock-‘n’-roll sensibility.

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Alexander McQueen Resort 2020

Hard and soft, sculptural, sheer and delicate, the Alexander McQueen collection was filled with contrasts and inspired by vintage and living flora. Bougainvillea pink blossomed across the collection in the form of full, sheer, tiered skirts and ruffle tops, long taffeta skirts with a Frida Kahlo feel and the double lapels of a fitted red jacket and a strapless dress made from a cascade of ruffles.
Lace played a big role, too, tacked onto the hems of curvy leather corset dresses or worked into romantic knit dresses with ruffled collars and cuffs.
Creative director Sarah Burton offset the ruffles, flounces and lace with a strong lineup of tailoring. The collection included Army green military suits with nipped waists and midi skirts, laser-cut black leather skirt suits with zippers and dramatic peplums and tuxedo jackets with herbs embroidered in silver embroidery. Accessories included a lineup of leather corset belts in saturated shades of bright red, black, olive and amber.

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Giorgio Armani Pre-Fall 2020

For his first pre-fall runway show, held in Milan at the Armani Theater on Thursday evening, Giorgio Armani unveiled a collection that he named “Transformism.” The designer explained this moniker during a press conference beforehand, saying: “I wanted to allow women to be free and different whenever and wherever they wish, changing depending on their mood.”
His lineup, in fact, touched notes while remaining rooted in the sense of rigor and practicality that are distinctive traits of the brand. Armani’s personal idea of femininity continued to be influenced by sartorial references, which translated into a plethora of suits on the catwalk, some featuring constructed jackets with small proportions, others more loose and fluid, such as languid velvet designs punctuated by tiny details echoing the Eastern iconography. “There is an Oriental touch that does not have a precise origin — someone will say that Armani always has that, but the Orient is an inexhaustible source of inspiration. It offers dreamy references, maybe less realistic but more linked to a mood,” Armani explained.
Pleated pants or trousers with bustier-like details were matched with laid-back cardigans, body-hugging coats and cozy padded outerwear styles, which, along with cargo pants, joggers and drawstring details, introduced a touch

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Christopher Kane Resort 2020

Christopher Kane isn’t one to shy away from a taboo topic or to let his obsession with science, human behavior and fetishes guide his design process every season.
For resort, he looked at people’s relationships with the digital world and came up with a “Technosexual” collection, complete with futuristic foil fabrics in metallic pink or silver hues; chunky metal embellishments, and slogans like “Technosexual” or “Agalmatophilia” — meaning an obsession with statues or mannequins — splattered on T-shirt dresses and coats.
Kane also explored fetishism through silhouette, with some light, black foil dresses rendered in covered, almost “puritanical” midi shapes and others featuring more risqué cutouts.
“Nothing is taboo and nothing will ever be taboo for Christopher Kane. The whole concept of censorship didn’t work back then, so why should it work now?” the designer said. “We’re not humdrum, we need to explore these notions and have a sense of humor. It’s all about provoking a reaction and giving women the tools to feel empowered, because women today should have the power to be sexually aggressive and not be shamed for it.”
Despite all the provocation and fetishistic themes woven into the collection, Kane still managed to channel a sense of ease.
He turned to

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Bodysong RTW and Men’s Spring 2020

Name: Bodysong
Main message: This brand, by an anonymous designer, has won both the Tokyo Fashion Award and the Tokyo New Designer Fashion Grand Prize. For its second participation in Tokyo Fashion Week, it showed a series of oversize separates in contrasting textiles. Pants were pieced together from denim, chino cloth and reflective fabric. Removable sleeves were partially unzipped to hang off the body of jackets, pockets were exaggerated, and tipped cable sweater vests were so big that they could double as dresses.
But just when things started to feel a bit predictable, the designer mixed things up by playing with proportions. Some pants were nearly comically baggy, while others were straight-leg or tapered and ankle length. Vests were boxy and cropped, accented with large toggles. There were lots of allover logo prints, but a mix of contrasting textures from metallic jacquard denim to traditional shirting kept things interesting.
The result: It was a strong showing by an up-and-coming streetwear brand that has hit its stride with a consistent-yet-contrasting mix of unisex pieces.

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Balmung RTW and Men’s Spring 2020

Name: Balmung
Main message: This brand’s designer, who goes by the name Hachi, said he looked at things that had inspired him in the past in order to create his latest collection. This resulted in an offering with a vaguely futuristic look that nonetheless felt very now. He layered different fabrics to give depth and different tones of the same colors, such as an asymmetric skirt consisting of sheer black fabric over white shirting, over a more substantial black material. Pockets were extra large and always on the outside of high-waisted shorts, slim trousers, structured jackets and Windbreakers.
Some pieces were more basic: white shirts, ankle-length knit dresses in navy or gray, and simple jersey tank tops. But rather than feeling boring, they helped to keep focus on the more interesting items, without competing with them. Many looks included obi-like belts tied around the chest instead of the waist and printed with slogans such as “polyester is future” and “hometown.” The show closed with a crinkled, iridescent sweatshirt that was so oversize that it fell below the model’s knees, its sleeves bunched up around her arms.
The result: Hachi succeeded in turning out a collection that showed both creativity and commercial appeal. It

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Tatyana Parfionova RTW Spring 2020

Name: Tatyana Parfionova
Main message: According to show notes, Tatyana Parfionova is the first Russian brand to participate in Tokyo Fashion Week, which is an accomplishment in and of itself. But while her collection would surely appeal to her customers back home, it left something to be desired in front of a Japanese audience.
The designer chose to show only dresses — no separates. And while this was ostensibly done in order to challenge customers to come up with their own styling concepts, it ended up feeling repetitive. The theme for the season was “black dragonfly,” and Parfionova employed motifs of clouds, lily pads, flowers and foliage. She also mixed prints and textures, which wasn’t always successful. One look that missed the mark consisted of a tiered skirt of yellow tulle layered over yellow sequins, with a strange shopping bag-style netting over the bodice and black sleeves with metallic polka dots.
The result: The choice to focus on a single garment with very little variation in silhouette resulted in the collection falling flat, despite a riot of print and texture.

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Yoshikimono RTW Spring 2020

After a three-year hiatus, the kimono brand founded by Yoshiki Hayashi returned to Tokyo Fashion Week as the first show of the season. Predictably, it brought plenty of drama and a higher production value than is typical for the event. 
Known simply by his first name, Yoshiki gained fame as the cofounder, drummer, pianist and main songwriter for X Japan, an influential rock band. He also plays classical music as a solo artist, and has composed music for a variety of film and television projects. And while his career has been in music, he was also born into a family that managed a kimono shop. Yoshikimono is his first venture in the fashion industry, and through it he hopes to increase the popularity of kimono among young people, both in Japan and throughout the world. He admits it’s an uphill battle, but due to his level of celebrity at home and abroad — he has played sold-out shows at both Madison Square Garden and Carnegie Hall — it is possible that he’s one of the few people who could accomplish such a goal.
“The kimono industry has been suffering in terms of business, so I was wondering how could I stimulate the

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Landlord Men’s RTW Spring 2020

Name: Landlord
Main message: A native of Tottori prefecture in Japan, Ryohei Kawanishi has lived outside of his home country since he was 18, residing previously in London and now in New York. He said that although he has never actually lived in Tokyo, growing up in the Japanese countryside he was always inspired by the Nineties Tokyo street style that he would see in magazines. Since launching his brand in 2015, he has explored a different theme each season, but for spring he wanted to draw on all of his past influences. He took pieces from his archives and tasked New York-based artist Meguru Yamaguchi to paint directly onto the clothes.
“Through this one show, I wanted to show the context I have been working with for the past eight seasons,” Kawanishi said. “The mix of colors from Meguru Yamaguchi, the street casting. To me, Japan’s original fashion culture is the story of street culture, and that’s what I wanted to show.”
The result: Roomy hoodies, baggy shorts, structured jackets and bright orange or yellow trousers were splashed in perfectly positioned, colorful swaths of paint for a streetwear collection with an artistic edge.

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Kozaburo RTW and Men’s Spring 2020

Name: Kozaburo
Main message: Kozaburo Akasaka has lived overseas for many years, and was even a finalist for the 2017 LVMH Prize, the same year he started his brand. But Japan has always been a supportive market for him, and this was one reason he decided to return to his home country to stage his first show in Tokyo.
“I wanted to come back to Tokyo, where I came from, and show who I am now,” he said. “For me, this show is like a thank you and a chance for people in Japan to experience the whole world of Kozaburo.”
His collection had a retro, rock-‘n’-roll edge to it, but also elements from workwear and Asian influences. Raw denim bell-bottoms, high-waisted black trousers, a yellow satin bomber and loose-fitting coats were just a few pieces he sent down the runway. There were also several matching tracksuits, including a bright yellow set that was reminiscent of the one Uma Thurman wore in “Kill Bill.”
The result: This was a collection that was edgy yet soft; retro yet effortlessly cool; casual yet stylish. In short, it was streetwear for those with a sense of style and fit.

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Diet Butcher Slim Skin Men’s Spring 2020

Name: Diet Butcher Slim Skin
Main message: This curiously named brand has been around since the mid-Nineties, but took to Tokyo’s runways for the first time this season. Designer Hisashi Fukatami worked with artists Kosuke Kawamura and Guccimaze on prints for the collection.
“Having been an aspiring artist myself, my core curiosity lies in the coexistence of art and fashion,” Fukatami wrote in his show notes. “The relationship between art and fashion and culture and fashion being often on the table for discussion, I see those coexisting in a very amicable manner. I have created this collection with inspiration from works of those artists who always stimulate my curiosity.”
The two artists’ works were incorporated into tunics, A-line shirts, casual pants with protruding pockets, and scarves that were tied tightly at the models’ necks. Fukatami also showed silky, drapy suits in light gray or navy, and separates in traditionally feminine pastels and textiles.
The result: Fukatami’s interpretation of tailoring was soft and light, infused with artistic prints and mixed patterns for a modern men’s wear look that seamlessly mixed casual with elevated looks.

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Roland Mouret Resort 2020

For Roland Mouret, it’s all in the drape. The designer worked Seventies-inspired makeup colors into this collection of fluid, draped, feminine clothing. He put the focus on fabrics including wool crepe, stretch viscose and hammered satin, the latter of which made for flowing handkerchief hems on a skirt; breezy, sensual slipdresses, and the generous, draped sleeves on plissé or striped blouses.
Mouret said he wants women to use his clothes as a tool to define and express themselves, whether that’s for work or not. There were tailored pieces here, too, including a long crepe coat in fire engine red, and a lineup of unfussy suits with thick, karate-style belts and wide-leg trousers, in solid colors like purple, or checks. A silver lamé jumpsuit inspired by the glitter ball added a dash of Seventies spice to the mix.

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Onitsuka Tiger RTW and Men’s Spring 2020

Japanese sports and streetwear brand Onitsuka Tiger staged its spring show in an indoor running stadium on an island in Tokyo Bay. The festivities began with a marching band, wheel acrobatics and dancers who flew through the air doing backflips and the like. And with the 2020 Summer Olympics being hosted by Tokyo, creative director Andrea Pompilio drew inspiration both from the city and from past editions of the Games.
“This season is a big homage to Tokyo because it’s going to be the Olympic Games of 2020,” Pompilio said. “The collection is going to be in the stores at that time, and that’s the reason why you see a lot of luggage. Because for me it’s like all the world is coming here and Tokyo has become a really big center of the world. For the Olympics but also because Tokyo at the moment is a really big center of creativity and a very inspiring city for so many people.”
The luggage Pompilio mentioned was made of slick vinyl in the Olympic colors and emblazoned with either retro or modern looking logos. Shapes ranged from cosmetic bags to Boston bags.
“Another big inspiration is about all historical and past Olympic Games from

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Mistergentleman Men’s Spring 2020

With several strong seasons under their belt and stores in Tokyo, Shanghai and Hong Kong, Takeshi Osumi and Yuichi Yoshii have become a fixture in the coveted Friday night slot during Tokyo Fashion Week. Their latest season was no exception, drawing a crowd that included local and international fashion insiders, among whom was Marcelo Burlon.
The designers began their show with a series of preppy white or checked short suits, with the jackets worn unbuttoned over bare chests for a look of disheveled cool. They also mixed different colors of checks — green, white and red — or printed them onto sheer fabrics.
Khaki or olive shorts, pullovers and onesies were reminiscent of Fifties Boy Scout uniforms, combined with elements from classic military styles. There were also a few traditional checked suits, but in relaxed silhouettes and with elements like sleeves that dangled from the models’ shoulders or pants with high-waist backs, secured in the front with a black strap.
Never ones to play it safe, Osumi and Yoshii also mixed in bold neon tops and shirts and jackets embellished with shiny gold beads or clear rhinestones. Tailored shirts with built-in fanny packs displayed the pair’s adeptness at combining seemingly at-odds pieces into brand

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Shohei RTW and Men’s Spring 2020

Name: Shohei
Main message: Austrian designer Lisa Pek made her Tokyo Fashion Week debut a year ago, and after a one-season break she was back with a collection that once again showed off both her technical skill and her knack for nailing a Western interpretation of a Japanese aesthetic. While many of Pek’s silhouettes were simple and classic — button-up shirts, a cross-front midiskirt, and relaxed-fitting suits for men — she mixed them up with unexpected details or asymmetric additions. There was a loose ruffle that ran across and trailed off of plain white or blue tie-dyed shirts; trousers with zippers that opened to create slits at the knees and thighs, and a sweatshirt dress with added “sleeves” that tied around the waist. 
The result: Pek’s brand showed potential as a contemporary label that produces easy-to-wear collections with a slight twist, but she may benefit from taking a few more risks in the future.

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Mitsuru Okazaki RTW and Men’s Spring 2020

Name: Mitsuru Okazaki
Main message: Inspired by Seventies rock ‘n’ roll style, Mitsuru Okazaki sent out a compact collection of slim suits and separates with an edge. Roughly half a dozen black unisex pantsuits were accented with bold white contrasts in the shape of circles, stars, arrows, guitars, or strips of cotton tape arranged in the style of a Napoleon jacket. Black tank tops and bell bottoms printed or embroidered with guitars took a literal interpretation of the theme, while bright pink satin shirts with basketweave detailing and pants with their seams on the outside made the look feel more modern.
The result: It was a tight collection with a clear theme that nonetheless had enough variety in just over 20 looks that it kept the audience’s attention.

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2020 NHL draft rankings: Peters’ updated early-season top 25 prospects

Is Alexis Lafreniere the clear-cut best prospect in the 2020 NHL draft class? Chris Peters ranks his early top 25 and dives into the race for No. 1 overall.
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RABD Men’s Spring 2020

Name: RABD
Main message: A former design assistant for John Galliano, Kanya Miki founded his brand in 2017 and this season marked his second showing during Tokyo Fashion Week. He still made a common rookie mistake, sending out at least twice as many looks he should have if he wanted to avoid repetition and losing his audience’s attention.
Roomy silhouettes dominated Miki’s runway. Pants were extra long, pleated, and cinched at the waist, sometimes with long cords or chains that trailed behind as the models walked. Outerwear, too, was oversize, whether it took the form of faux leather bombers so long they nearly reached the knee or denim overcoats with bunched up sleeves. Even cropped suit jackets had shoulders so wide that they hung from the models’ frames.
The result: Despite the repetition and sheer volume of the collection, it showed a clear direction and was an interesting new take on the casual-meets-tailoring trend that has become common among streetwear brands.

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Gut’s Dynamite Cabarets RTW and Men’s Spring 2020

Name: Gut’s Dynamite Cabarets
Main message: After a nearly seven-year hiatus from Tokyo’s runways, the designers who go by the names Cabaret Aki and Jackal Kuzu were back for spring, this time with their new partner W Woods Showko. Their collection had a retro, rock ‘n’ roll-meets-hippie vibe to it, with floral caftans and printed maxi skirts shown alongside ruffled blouses, ripped jeggings, and leopard-print blazers. There was a riot of color and pattern, from multicolored zigzags to a black all-over logo print over a bright pink background. Long fringe-trimmed skirts, dresses and ponchos.
During a break from the traditional runway show, the designers sent out groups of street dancers, nontraditional models, and wrestlers wearing pieces from GCGX, the brand’s new sports line. Heavy on logos, there were sweatsuits, T-shirts, shorts and leggings in either black and white or a red, blue and yellow multicolored print.
The result: As the finale soundtrack — “Fight for Your Right” by the Beastie Boys — suggested, this was a high-energy show that certainly brought the fun. The clothes themselves were a bit more toned down than the brand’s previous fare, but will likely do well on a commercial level.

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Children of the Discordance Men’s Spring 2020

Name: Children of the Discordance
Main message: Hideaki Shikama runs what is possibly Japan’s coolest “sustainable” fashion brand, although he doesn’t promote it as such. He designs products that incorporate traditional skills of indigenous peoples in countries from Mexico to Kenya, and follows fair-trade practices in purchasing them. He also works with artist Naoto Yoshida, who remakes vintage fashions as new pieces.
Shikama’s spring offering was rich in color, texture and pattern. Velvety floral tracksuits, bandanna prints on Indian-inspired tunics and straight trousers, intricate embroidery on oversize denim jackets, and shirts fashioned from scarf prints were combined with more  pedestrian camouflage pants and workers’ overalls.
The result: An eclectic mix of multicultural influences and colorful prints came together with loose, casual silhouettes for streetwear with a refined polish.

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Hare RTW and Men’s Spring 2020

Name: Hare
Main message: One of the more commercial brands to show during Tokyo Fashion Week, Hare is designed by a team. For spring they turned out oversize versions of classic jackets and tops, often with exaggerated, wide sleeves, overly boxy shapes, or nearly comically large pockets. Paired with wide-legged pants, some looks bordered on shapeless, but others had asymmetric details that gave them a modern edge. The team incorporated Japanese imagery into their prints and motifs, from kabuki actors to bonsai trees, as well as traditional geometric patterns. Neutral tones of black, white, beige and brown were contrasted with pops of red, fuchsia and gold.
The result: There were some beautiful fabrics and interesting imagery, but many of the pieces themselves were either very basic or so oversized that they lost their shape, and certain details such as trailing ribbons of chiffon seemed to have no rhyme or reason and didn’t do anything to elevate the pieces.

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Cinoh RTW and Men’s Spring 2020

Name: Cinoh
Main message: Takayuki Chino said he was inspired by a French sense of style for spring, “including the chic way the French wear scarves, Basque shirts and nautical items such as striped boatnecks.” And while these things may sound cliché, the designer succeeded at reinventing them in his own way. He fashioned silky scarves in white, red and navy stripes into buttoned-up ponchos and pleated skirts, and lengthened tipped jackets into calf-length coats, pairing them with jumpsuits and relaxed, high-waisted trousers.
For men, Chino showed a relaxed style of tailoring, including jackets without lapels over long, untucked shirts and loose-fitting pants. He mixed widths of blue and white shirting stripes and added a casual touch with drawstring trousers and sporty bomber jackets.
The result: While many of the pieces were timeless and basic, Chino made them feel modern by giving them a relaxed edge and playing with slightly oversize proportions.

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Rainmaker RTW and Men’s Spring 2020

Name: Rainmaker
Main message: A rare Kyoto-based brand in Japan’s fashion scene, Rainmaker was chosen as one of the winners of this year’s Tokyo Fashion Award. For their second showing during Tokyo Fashion Week, Kohichi Watanabe and Ryutaro Kishi showed relaxed but refined silhouettes in soft, draping fabrics. Unstructured trenches and suit jackets were paired with easy trousers, and collarless shirts topped drawstring shorts. The palette was muted neutrals and pastels, with the exception of a deep purple silk embroidered allover in a floral pattern. Cardigans and shirts were often worn unbuttoned but crossed over in the front and tucked in, for an elegantly undone look.
The result: The offering was cohesive and well executed, with a modern versatility that would be right at home in any urban environment.

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Hyke RTW Spring 2020

Yukiko Ode and Hideaki Yoshihara’s brand has, for the past several seasons, been a consistent bright spot during Tokyo Fashion Week, and the latest season was no exception. After a series of collections focused on reinventing classic military pieces from around the world, the spring offering had a softer, more feminine feel to it, but was no less timeless.
Hyke is not a brand that capitalizes on sex appeal. There is very little skin shown with its clothes, even for spring. And yet they have a refined elegance that is undeniable. Ankle-length trenchcoats, maxidresses layered over fringed skirts, and pantsuits topped with pleated half skirts were turned out in neutral khaki, beige, navy and black, with a few pops of blue and pink candy colors thrown in to mix things up. The fabrics were stunning without exception, from smooth cotton and soft linen to functional tech materials.
Having collaborated with sports brands including The North Face in the past, this season saw a grouping of pieces made in conjunction with Adidas. Pleated, asymmetrical dresses, yoga-ready leggings, and abstract printed black-and-white pullovers were often paired with more tailored items, such as fringed long skirts or a basic black shirt.
Ode and Yoshihara also sent

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Spring 2020 Trend: Waist Not

One school of fashion says that most women want clothes with a waist. Another school prefers to let loose, literally. That school made multiple compelling arguments for spring, as designers ruminated on new ways to deliver unfettered volume, for day and evening. Alluring looks ranged from oversize T-shirts to elaborate layerings.

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Maje RTW Spring 2020

For spring, Judith Milgrom was thinking about those glamorous Miami poolside photos taken by Slim Aarons from the Sixties.
“I asked myself, what have these women become, who are these women who seemed to have nothing more to do than be there — women today are very active,” she said. They still want to wear color, even if they’re working so much they no longer have time to drink Champagne, she concluded. 
So she gave them color: Hot pink biker shorts. And added glamour, using taffeta for the first time, to make very feminine dresses in baby blue, pale yellow and bubblegum pink. Accessories were bright, and included faux crocodile leather purses that attach to a belt — in bright red and hot pink. New this season was a teeny-tiny lipstick case, to be worn on a chain; sneakers, on the other hand, were chunky. 
There were airy romantic pieces too, including a flower dress with spaghetti straps and an uneven hemline. A capsule collection featured prints from the photos, including a dress patterned with a photo of sunlight in the water of a pool. Outerwear included a puffy-sleeved denim jacket with laces running down the back.
It was a youthful and upbeat lineup,

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Lacoste RTW Spring 2020

“The players are ready. Position,” and with that, the second Lacoste collection by Louise Trotter hit the runway, corridors around Roland-Garros’ brand-new Simonne Mathieu court, an ultra-modern installation nestled in the greenery of the Serres d’Auteuil botanical gardens. But the venue, where the brand had surprisingly never shown despite historic links with the sporting complex, wasn’t the only opposing pair offered by the tennis-centric brand this season.
For this iteration, the incumbent designer explored what she called the brand’s “aristocratic yet quite street” identity. “I wanted to try and address the nostalgia people feel toward Lacoste, with a contemporary lens,” she said backstage. Sporty pieces were cut from butter-soft leathers or silks. On others, Trotter demonstrated her deft tailoring hand, cutting a double-breasted suit in soft pink. Shown in succession on a female and then male models, it reinforced the idea that very little, if any, of the lineup was gender-specific — not even floor-skimming polo shirts and skirts that nodded to the Japanese hakama in their pleating and proportions.
To ground her work in the here-and-now, she tweaked proportions on house signatures. Mercerised or heavier yarns were used to produce oversize piqué. Widened cuffs and ribbing details were given pride of

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Reggie Bush’s USC Ban Could End In 2020, School Official Says

Great news for Reggie Bush … his NCAA-issued ban requiring him to stay away from USC could expire in 2020, this according to USC’s interim athletic director, Dave Roberts. Roberts spelled it out to Ryan Young of TrojanSports.com … saying a new…

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Equipment RTW Spring 2020

Equipment continued to expand its offering for spring, with utilitarian and archival details and a watercolor palette coming together in a lineup inspired by Marrakech. There was an expanded range of dresses, some directly derived from the brand’s shirting heritage, others with more feminine wrap shapes and done in animal or floral prints.
Elevated basics presented more masculine lines, as on a cropped military shirtdress in beige or cilantro leather shorts and matching army sweater, which rubbed shoulders with more statement pieces, like a viscose twill jumpsuit in fuchsia and red.

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Louis Vuitton RTW Spring 2020

Closing Paris Fashion Week can be a double-edged sword. In theory, the Louis Vuitton show is the star-studded, spectacular apotheosis to a month of runway shows in four capitals. In practice, weary fashion editors are anxiously eyeing the clock to gauge if they will make their plane or train back home.
It didn’t help that the Vuitton show this season started an hour later than usual, just after the sun set on the plastic tent erected in the courtyard of the Louvre. The brand wanted to maximize the impact of the music video that played on a giant screen that stretched the entire width of the catwalk.
Looming over the audience was transgender singer Sophie Xeon, known simply as Sophie, performing an extended version of her 2017 track “It’s Okay to Cry.” Somewhat surreally, models emerged from a door set in the middle of the performer’s chest.
Nicolas Ghesquière has been flirting with gender fluidity for several seasons, having cast androgynous models including Krow Kian in his spring show a year ago, and subsequently tapped transgender actress Indya Moore to star in his pre-fall look book and act as Instagram “host” for Vuitton’s fall show.
And it was an undercurrent this season at the

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Maticevski RTW Spring 2020

For Australian designer Toni Maticevski, designing around a theme is no longer working out. “It’s really weird. I’ve stopped trying to figure it out,” he said ruefully during a showroom appointment. What he thought about instead: how good a spring morning feels — clear skies, bright light and the scent of dew-saturated earth.
He embodied the latter as touches of sheen or darker tones; the bright light in flattering pinky-beiges, and the breeze in fabrics meant to obscure without hiding the skin. Given his proclivity for architectural draping, the result could have easily felt too formal. Here, his sculptural approach was reined in by softer fabrics and felt more relatable, especially with new daywear options.
Among the standouts: A light gray striped dress looked blowsy, while soft tuffs dotting white gauze fabric evoked sun-dappled surfaces. A jersey T-shirt gave an editor-off-duty look to a pencil skirt. The soft hand of a silk blend made a top and matching trousers skew more relaxed but still smart.
The lighter materials of the collection made tailored pieces stand out. A double-breasted blazer felt at once familiar and fresh, while a check overcoat toed the line between sporty and statement thanks to its kimono-inspired proportions. “My idea of

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Martin Grant RTW Spring 2020

“It’s a little bit ‘workwear meets Bubblegum Barbie,’” said Martin Grant, by way of introducing his spring collection. That’s some statement, coming from a designer famous for dressing style icons like Cate Blanchett and Meghan Markle.
Grant was referring specifically to a blue belted shirtdress with safari pockets that he’d paired with pink heels, but there were plenty of other playful options in his spring collection: a sexy pink halterneck minidress; cross-back bra tops, and a navy linen zip-front, hourglass bustier dress.
They tipped his trademark masculine-feminine dynamic into flirtier territory. Even the suits had a softer edge this season, courtesy of a slightly Eighties-feeling curved, cropped pant shape. Grant emphasized the waist by belting everything from oversize shirts to a flowing one-shouldered pink taffeta evening gown.
He also used the taffeta for a puff-sleeved shirt, noting that the fabric was made by a French company that historically supplied haute couture houses. “It’s one of the first pinks that I used when I moved to Paris, and it’s called ‘Paris.’ I like also that I can go back to a house that I used 15 years ago and have that exact color,” he mused.
Bubblegum Barbie just got a couture makeover.

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Maison Rabih Kayrouz RTW Spring/Summer 2020

UPDATED: Maison Rabih Kayrouz showed its new summer 2020 during Paris Fashion Week.
“The whole Maison Rabih Kayrouz universe is presented once during the July show, and then sold in three stages: ‘Acte 1’ during couture, and the second part is sold now, for two ready-to-wear deliveries,” said the Paris-based couturier at a presentation for “Acte 2,” the summer delivery of his spring/summer 2020 collection, explaining that this also fit a commercial logic for the brand.
In this second rtw, he concentrated on giving his client ease of movement, and “lightness by all means” befitting the warmest summer days. Crisp white cotton was cut in generous shirt dresses that could be worn belted or not; tiered dresses were adorned with openwork details that nodded to a couture bridal look, or blouses decked in gold buttons — a nod to his buttons but also to Bedouin garments.
Expanding on the stripe theme, he reprised easy shapes in silk charmeuse or in stripes of primary colors. Construction remained simple, with garments based on simple shapes of T-shirts that grew into dresses, shirts with a pin-tucked ruffle outlining the shoulders or even rectangles of fabric that echoed Grecian garments. Complexity came in touches like a

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Mary Katrantzou Spring 2020

Mary Katrtantzou set the bar high for her spring 2020 show — a little too high, some would say.
Just like she managed to make the impossible possible when it came to securing her dream show venue – the historic Temple of Poseidon in Athens – the Greek-born designer delivered a standout couture collection that was bursting with emotion, ideas and elevated construction techniques.
It was admirable that she was able to execute everything at such scale, on a tight budget and with a small team at her north London atelier. Her talent, conviction – and many a sleepless night – certainly paid off.
The collection consisted of 30 looks, each exploring a different couture technique and conceptualizing a philosophical idea birthed in Greece at the same time as the temple of Poseidon was built, in 440 B.C.
The first model – in a sequinned and fringed column gown with a quote from Socrates embroidered on it – made her way down the runway against the ancient ruins, sending a frisson through the crowd. The dim lighting and eerie music added to the electricity in the space.
What followed was an explosion of creativity, with Katrantzou paying homage to her country’s history – and writing a new

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Capucci RTW Spring 2020

For their second season at storied Rome house Capucci, Luisa Orsini and Antonine Peduzzi played with optical effects, using iridescent fabrics that change color in the light and working them into designs that can be worn in different ways to create volume.
Mikado silks were taken from Capucci’s archives, recycled into modernized cocktail separates in color-blocked brights. A cropped waistcoat in lilac silk was adorned with glow-in-the-dark beads, intended to evoke a rosary, and worn with high-waisted white pants.
A handmade black devoré gown and plissé silk dresses — orange or red, burgundy or green, depending on the light — in one-shouldered or bell-sleeved iterations nodded to the house’s couture heritage, a link the designers are keen to cultivate as they seek to modernize the label without neglecting its rich history.
Wide-brimmed “visiere” hats, adorned with beaded fringing or giant bows, added to the updated vintage feel of the collection.

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Honayda RTW Spring 2020

For her first presentation at Paris Fashion Week, Honayda Serafi drew inspiration from her childhood memories of seeing Bedouin women in the countryside in her native Saudi Arabia.
Their traditional outfits inspired the seashell-embroidered belt she layered over a silky white cape-sleeved top, and the geometric patterns on a hooded dress worn over matching pants. The layered silhouettes are a pragmatic choice for Bedouin women out in the elements, but Serafi gave them a seductive allure.
A black bustier jumpsuit was overlaid with a sheer tunic with graphic silver sequin embroideries, while dramatic floor-length capes added pizzazz to buttoned-up long-sleeve shirts and pants. The designer titled the collection “Evolution,” saying it was a vision of how women could evolve from one generation to the next.
Serafi has done her bit to challenge social attitudes in Saudi Arabia by introducing colored and embroidered abayas in previous collections. This time, she showed variations on the traditional caftan, such as a white column dress with a pleated half cape. “This for me is the new generation of caftans: dress caftans,” she explained.
The collection was heavy on the kind of red-carpet fare that has won over celebrities including Priyanka Chopra, Lupita Nyong’o and Lindsey Vonn. Standouts included

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Kirin Peggy Gou RTW Spring 2020

Peggy Gou doesn’t need to look far for inspiration: her Kirin line is basically condensed from the kind of things she likes to wear. For her sophomore collection, the South Korean-born techno DJ and producer whipped up outfits for everything from hitting the festival circuit to traveling between gigs.
Her signature look is matching tops and pants, ranging from color-blocked tracksuits and denim pairings, to satiny logo-printed pajamas. Among the patterns this season is a pixelated image of dancers — a nod to the Saatchi Gallery’s recent “Sweet Harmony: Rave Today” exhibition — and a motif of Korean traditional masks.
Gou said the idea came from the artwork for her track “Starry Night,” an illustration that shows her hiding behind a laughing mask. “Everything with social media now is about who has a better life, who’s happier, and my cover had the meaning that everything is not as it appears,” she said. “I’m not always a super happy person.”
The Berlin-based DJ has been working with her partners at New Guards Group, the Milan-based brand platform that was recently sold to Farfetch, to refine her assortment. Based on the feedback from her first season, she’s added more feminine shirts and snugger denim fits.
“I

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Aalto RTW Spring 2020

This wasn’t your typical, sparkling beach inspiration. Tuomas Merikoski was thinking more of danger, lust and excitement, he said — his summer feeling has something more of a road-trip vibe. To start with, there was a heavy dose of white — lightweight white cotton shirts, some with sailor blouse collars, and a trenchcoat with wide lapels. Merikoski had also rigged up sails in the showroom — he’s making handbags out of sails, and a stiff, crinkly prototype sat near the window, with round handles. Next to the bags were clogs — a collaboration with a traditional Finnish make called Talla, some with fat bows. But topping accessories was the stingray hat. Imagine a bucket hat with an extended brim, that split and grew stingray tails. It added flair but he meant it to be worn casually — like a real sailor bob that will look good even after it’s bleached by the sun. 
Then there was color — simple cotton T-shirts carried an extra sash of lightweight material with the house’s “bleeding dots” print, drape it in front, drape it in back, or toss it in the washing machine — the silky fabric was actually a recycled polyester. 
And now for the statement

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A.P.C. RTW Spring 2020

For its spring show, A.P.C. splashed out on an outdoor sound system, drawing guests into a Left Bank courtyard decorated with flag garlands, a beverage cart and tents displaying merchandise —  future products from three collaborations in the pipeline: JJJJound in November, Carhartt WIP in January and René Tadeo Holguin in March.
“I realise that the older I grow, the less subtle I want to be,” Jean Touitou told the crowd, waving a finger at the setup. DJ Prince, a teenager from the U.S. — found on Instagram — stood ready to spin Eighties tunes to spur the models down the runway.
The lineup was A.P.C. through and through — a sparse selection of prints with checks or flowers, stripes on occasion; more choice in the jeans department, offered at times with matching shirts or in the shape of a sleek boiler suit. Dresses, too, were sprinkled into the mix, trim, attractive and deceptively simple.
Sensible, all of it, with just the right register of chic to keep things from getting too ho-hum.
Moving with the times — the streets will soon be going all dressy — the bomber coat moved to preppy territory this season, tan with a collar, and flaps on the pockets; a

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Givenchy RTW Spring 2020

If there’s one thing that’s courted controversy on the runways in Paris, it’s denim, from the fraying denim shorts as base layer for the circa 2020 “le smoking” at YSL, to Seventies Landlubber throwback jeans at Celine, to ripped and shredded Nineties iterations at Givenchy, reworked from actual upcycled vintage pieces in a nod to sustainability, bravo Clare Waight Keller!
It’s not that designer denim is a new phenomenon, far from it. But somehow, in this era of class and climate warfare, it’s been a lightning rod.
But the beauty of denim is that it can be the uniform of the aristocrat and the protester. Designer denim costs more simply because it can, because customers are willing to pay for context and emotions and values. And at Givenchy, Keller has created the whole package, carving out a feminist fashion niche that is honest and questioning (dressing a duchess for her big day didn’t hurt, either).
Titled “NY Paris 1993,” Waight Keller’s latest collection was a look back at a particular moment in time in the Nineties when she started working in fashion at Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren and was traveling between New York and Paris. She was reminiscing about the contrast of

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Lutz Huelle RTW Spring 2020

Lest anyone worry that Lutz Huelle, the label, would languish as Huelle, the designer, gets swept up in his new mission at Delpozo, here came a message, striding down the runway: fear not.
A bit saucy and rather fashion-savvy — with an alternative Eighties vibe — the Lutz woman threw off her jeans last season and, swapping them for long skirts with a puff and shiny pencil trousers, declared it was time to dress properly. And enjoy it.
For spring, she carried on in this manner, slipping on an evening gown, in a flowy, black and metallic jacquard splashed with a generously proportioned floral pattern.
“In a way it’s kind of a French, flirty way of dressing — but it’s still what I like,” said Huelle.
He turned his focus on transparency, using an ultralight black mesh, often with polkadots, layering it over short, puffy sleeves, making them larger, or longer, and in one case, adding a chic touch to a light blue cotton shirtdress. Other times the layering felt a bit haphazard — those polka-dotted legs shooting out from under a thick trenchcoat were surprising in a slightly jarring sense —  likely his intention. 
Known for his obsession with bombers and jean jackets — which he

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Young LGBTQ+ Voters Know 2020 Is Crucial For Them. Do The Democratic Candidates?

Millennials and Generation Z flocked to the LGBTQ presidential forum on September 20 at Coe College in Cedar Rapids, Iowa, and they have some thoughts.
News

Alexandre Vauthier RTW Spring 2020

For someone from the field of haute couture, Vauthier is surprisingly democratic, finding ways to literally get the look for less. “While we’re developing fabrics and embellishments for couture, we’re already considering how to spin them off into ready-to-wear, to get the same aspect,” he said during an appointment.
The fall couture’s subject, namely the imagery and crafts that made him go into design, worked overtime in this collection, giving the couturier ample opportunity to play with Parisian tropes. June’s silk faille became prints on silks and jerseys; dresses made of acres of silk mousseline were recast in charmeuse to create volumes and reduce yardage; silk linings get blended with cotton, and hand-crafted flowers created by feather specialists Maison Lemarié return as machine-made fabric blooms. “We ask our suppliers to develop a version with price targets that match rtw targets,” he explained.
So the gold-buttoned blazers loved by French First Lady Brigitte Macron felt familiar, as did brushstroke prints cut into dresses and blouses. His less obviously sexy but intensely handsome feminine suits were made available in more variations, while a statement trench returned as a breezy, lightweight staple. Footwear was available in a range of heel heights and treatments so vast

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Isabel Marant RTW Spring 2020

It felt like Isabel Marant wanted to stretch the summer just one more evening as guests waiting for her show in the Palais Royal gardens were treated to music and mojitos.
“I was listening to baile funk, contemporary electronic Brazilian music, and it gave me ideas of Brazil, of beaches. Colors, sexiness. Craft and architects that I love like Oscar Niemeyer and Roberto Burle Marx,” she said backstage. The season certainly read like a day in that setting, going from the pinks and oranges of a sunrise, to the sun-bleached and vivid hues of midday, right through to nighttime’s somber shades.
Warm weather certainly lends itself to the French designer’s particular brand of skin-baring yet always classy sexiness. There were plenty of things to call out in her lineup such as abbreviated denim cutoffs, mini dresses and short skirts galore but also crochet knits and flowy fabrics made to skim toned physiques. Marant men — who now have their first stand-alone boutique — will have their pick of flower print shirts, peasant blouses and matching denim.
Whatever far-flung destination flavors the season, Marant’s work can almost be viewed as a continuum that never strays far from her forte: the free-spirited bohemian French girl.

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Jennifer Lopez and Shakira Will Perform at the 2020 Super Bowl Halftime Show

Jennifer Lopez is gearing up for her next big gig.
The multihyphenate is slated to headline the NFL 2020 Super Bowl Halftime Show alongside Shakira. Both musicians took to their Twitter accounts to share the news, with Lopez tweeting: “Going to set the world on [fire].”
Read More: A Look at Jennifer Lopez’s Iconic Fashion Moments

Going to set the world on 🔥🔥🔥 @shakira #PepsiHalftime #SuperBowlLIV @pepsi pic.twitter.com/c7oXQM0vjq
— Jennifer Lopez (@JLo) September 26, 2019

Shakira also tweeted out the same photo of the duo, stating: “It doesn’t get any bigger than this!”

It doesn’t get any bigger than this! So excited about getting on that #SuperBowlLIV #PepsiHalftime stage! @JLo 🤩🔥#nosvemosMiami #happybirthdaytomeee pic.twitter.com/BVosjrOcwN
— Shakira (@shakira) September 26, 2019

The 2020 Super Bowl will take place on Feb. 2 at Miami’s Hard Rock Stadium. The duo follow a lengthy list of other high-profile musicians to perform at the Super Bowl Halftime show, including Maroon 5, Lady Gaga, Katy Perry, Justin Timberlake and Beyoncé, among others.
The news follows a busy month for Lopez, who made headlines — and threw social media into a frenzy — during Milan Fashion Week when she walked the Versace spring 2020 runway in a reimagined version of her iconic green dress. She also premiered

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Lemaire RTW Spring 2020

“A summer rain,” Christophe Lemaire said after a show that stayed thankfully dry in the open courtyard of the École Duperré, despite worrisome black clouds and a distribution of umbrellas.
“We liked this idea of having fabrics with a wet effect,” added partner Sarah-Linh Tran. “We wanted to work around quite defined silhouettes and wet blacks.” This translated into an opening group of dark silhouettes, the kind of elongated looks Lemaire is known for, cut from chintz, coated cottons in various weights and occasional details in glossy wooden pearls — similar to those on orthopedic seat covers used by Parisian taxi drivers.
The duo did away with any embellishment, hewing close to the body by taking cues from the sparse elegance of judo outfits. Those informed the curved legs and padded detailing, notably self-tie belts that cinched jackets and coats, continuing down around the ankle on sandals with puffy straps.
The monochromatic silhouettes looked dipped in single color baths, moving onto a palette of almost neutrals of off-white, blush pinks, caramels and chocolate with the odd sage green — all tones that flatter the skin. “We like clothes to be a kind of new nudity,” Tran said. “This is a kind of makeup

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Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2020

The new YSL female power suit is shorts. That according to creative director Anthony Vaccarello, who put the spotlight — literally — on what’s emerging as one of spring’s biggest trends, the shorts suit.
While it’s tough to imagine U.S. House Speaker Nancy Pelosi ditching her royal blue skirt suit for a shorts suit to announce formal impeachment hearings against President Donald Trump, you never know — things are heating up in Washington.
Meanwhile in Paris, the rain is proving to be quite the runway set piece, from the dystopian mist at Marine Serre, to the downpour at Saint Laurent that let up just in time for the spotlights to turn skyward, all 394 of them, for another one of Vaccarello’s light spectaculars to rival the Eiffel Tower’s twinkling behind it. (He really takes the whole City of Light thing seriously.)
On the runway, it all started with the legs. The spotlights’ skinny beams of light following models’ strides in knee-grazing boots made for the ultimate power moves. Opening looks were long, short and shorter shorts — HotPants short in some cases — in blue denim or black, worn with a ruffled navy blue shirt left unbuttoned to the navel; a banker’s gold

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Telfar RTW Spring 2020

There’s a new American in Paris.
New York designer Telfar Clemens kicked off Paris Fashion Week with a multimedia happening that was, appropriately enough, a musing on migration. Not one to do a straight runway show, he presented his coed collection at La Cigale concert hall with a film, a live sonic score by Afro-Parisian DJ Crystallmess, a musical performance by Lancey Foux, and the surprise reveal of a Converse collab (including uber-cool sneaker sandals for men and women) that should help catapult the brand to an even wider audience.
Projected behind models wearing the same outfits that were shown on-screen, the film “The World Isn’t Everything” was the work of Clemens’ buzzy group of creative collaborators, including “Slave Play” playwright Jeremy O. Harris, artists Petra Collins and Juliana Huxtable. Speaking to the idea of migration, borders and belonging, the work featured black men floating on rafts just out of reach of the New York skyline, and “Moonlight” actor Ashton Sanders being interrogated at an airport security checkpoint, among other scenes, all with characters wearing Telfar logo jewelry, T-shirts and bags.
On the runway, the collection set out to rewrite the narrative of American sportswear. Techniques of deconstruction, reconstruction and patchwork were used

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Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini RTW Spring 2020

Monte Carlo, late Seventies. Caroline and Stephanie Grimaldi are two beautiful, rich, sometimes scandalous princesses living their best life surfing the international jet set.
These two icons, very different in their style and attitude, were the muses who inspired Lorenzo Serafini’s spring collection. Their looks and their images — Caroline more feminine and polished, Stephanie more tomboy and audacious — were reflected in the duality that Serafini injected into the lineup.
Bold volumes stole the spotlight. Big shoulders gave an Eighties vibe to denim and striped bouclé jackets cinched at the waist with jeweled belts. In keeping with the glamorous vibe, denim was also used to create tweed ruffled corsets layered over white T-shirts, while prom-inspired dresses with puffy details came in florals, as well as solids, such as vibrant red.
The mood got more grown-up when Serafini played with tailoring, sending out a white tuxedo with a big jacket with boxy, strong shoulders and another more fluid style fully embroidered with iridescent sequins. The young and innocent attitude of frilled mini frocks contrasted with the more nocturnal, sharp look of black leather outfits, punctuated by crystals, which were inspired by a picture of Caroline shot by Helmut Newton.
The collection, which also unveiled

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Piazza Sempione RTW Spring 2020

Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi celebrated the joyful, lively spirit of summer with their latest collection, displayed at the brand’s showroom, with its frescoes on the ceiling,
Taking inspiration from Michelangelo Antonioni’s 1960 movie “The Adventure,” filmed on Sicily’s Aeolian Islands, the designers showed uncomplicated, flared cotton dresses and full skirts matched with shirts, all worked in pure white or splashed with abstract prints resembling watery ink stains.
A mannish vibe was felt in suits, with jackets replaced by belted vests and classic sartorial fabrics switched with lightweight shirting textiles.
Discreet elegance prevailed in tunics layered over coordinated culottes, as well as in black and white tops with graphic necklines and built-in belts.

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Versace RTW Spring 2020

Talk about a J.Lo jaw-drop.
The diva herself closed out the Versace show Friday night, reprising what may have been the first viral fashion moment in history with an IRL runway walk for the ages.
It was the second time in the spotlight for the jungle print gown, which became an instant icon when Jennifer Lopez wore it to the Grammy Awards in 2000. Not only was the plunge-front dress depth-defying (How did it stay on then — or now —on the age-defying actress?), it changed history, when news traveled from Hollywood red carpet to Internet superhighway.
“I’m kind of proud to have inspired Google,” said Donatella Versace with her trademark humility during a pre-show preview.
Google was still in its infancy, just two years old, when fans burned up cords and cables searching for “Jennifer Lopez’s green dress.” When their queries weren’t turning up what they really wanted — a picture! — the tech giant realized it needed a new visual search engine, and developed Google Image. “For the first time, fashion inspired technology,” said the designer, noting it was also a validating moment for her personally, when she realized the dress had stopped the world. (She took the design helm at Versace

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Bottega Veneta RTW Spring 2020

Few designer arrivals are instantly momentous. Bottega Veneta’s Daniel Lee is finding that out.
Lee’s appointment at Bottega came with high expectations buoyed by his Phoebe-centric résumé; he was a longtime assistant to Phoebe Philo, now on industry hiatus (because no one wants to think she’s exited fashion for good). Insider-celebrated, he was also green in the ways of fronting a major brand, and in connecting to women on the emotional level that made Philo more cult goddess that mere fashion star.
Would Lee command a slice of the Phoebe-loving population longing for courtship? After his second runway on Thursday, the answer remains a giant question mark. One point is very clear: Lee has a long way to go, both in clarifying his vision and refining his skills. After the show, Lee said this collection was about “solidifying icons…the things we’ve become known for.”
But what are the Bottega icons? There’s a very specific, very famous handbag treatment that Lee has translated to clothes and shoes. And he listed, “the pouch bag, the kind of ease, reality of dressing.” But are those identifiable codes? In fact, does Bottega really have a ready-to-wear iconography? If yes, what is it, and how does he advance

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Jil Sander RTW Spring 2020

Balance is a goal that most everyone aspires to reach in life. Probably one of the most difficult to attain, considering the chaotic lifestyle of today. But a fashion show, if considered as a representation of tiny fragments of life, gives us that peaceful feel that, for a handful of minutes, everything is in its own place and the balance is found. This happened on Wednesday night at Milan’s Brera Academy where Jil Sander unveiled a beautiful collection, which seemed to center on the concept of balance.
Creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier succeeded in finding harmony among contrasting forces, giving shape to a lineup, which felt personal, distinctive, inventive.
The minimal rigor of sartorial suits, injected with an almost severe, mannish attitude, was counterbalanced by the liquid fluidity of draped dresses with high-neck collars and long sleeves. The conceptual vibe of most intricate constructions and deconstructions, as well as the paper-like feel of textured, more rigid fabrics, were juxtaposed to the desirable, essential approachability of a pleated tunic top with a crisscross detail on the back layered over a matching skirt in a different white tone and the liquid fluidity of a black and blue silk V-neck frock.
Patchwork in a chic

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Wright Le Chapelain RTW Spring 2020

In a small alleyway not far from the newly opened Standard hotel near King’s Cross station, Wright Le Chapelain debuted its first on-calendar collection in a refreshing way. Models were doing community work, planting plants and cleaning garbage off the street, instead of standing still against the wall.
Imogen Wright and Vincent Le Chapelain, the duo behind of brand, said this was their way of participating in the circular economy. Showing in a public venue that engages with residents and commuters not only generates zero waste but gives back to society.
The collection worn by these “social workers” is all made in London in collaboration with local tailors and seamstresses. Their thoughtful play on men’s wardrobe classics included a men’s dress shirt reinterpreted as a bias-cut wrap dress, while a check jacket was deconstructed into a panel skirt. 
The two met while studying MA Fashion at Central Saint Martins, and decided to launch a brand together in 2017. It’s still early days, but as more young brands go back to tailoring and aim to dress members of the business world, Wright Le Chapelain might soon start a style evolution with the likes of Eftychia and Peter Do.

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Richard Quinn RTW Spring 2020

Lines snaked around the street outside East London’s York Hall, where the spring 2020 Richard Quinn show was set to take place, with guests waiting more than 40 minutes post the scheduled start time to be let in.
“It better be worth it” was the general consensus.
It most definitely was.
The feeling of fantasy and the grandiose were apparent from the moment you set foot in the old sport’s hall, transformed with a big crystal chandelier, blush pink carpet and arrays of flowers, next to which the Philharmonia orchestra was set up to play live.
Richard Quinn’s intention for this event was straight-forward: to put on a real show and encourage his guests to dream during these challenging times. There was no specific muse or philosophical thought process, just fashion for the sake of fashion, in its purest, most artistic form.
He telegraphed his message by dialing up the volume and the glamour, in an even bolder way than previous seasons. He super-sized the bow embellishments or the sleeves on his much-loved puff-sleeve minis; added extra layers of tulle under bold leopard print balloon dresses for an added dose of drama; mixed florals with feathers and piled up the crystals on the trims of

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Moschino Sets Pre-fall 2020 Show Location

Great minds think alike.
Jeremy Scott will be staging his pre-fall 2020 women’s Moschino show Dec. 9 in the subway. But unlike Tom Ford’s moody spring 2020 extravaganza that had showgoers sitting on the platform of the abandoned Bowery station, Scott’s show will be inside the subway cars at the New York Transit Museum, the country’s largest museum devoted to urban public transportation history.
“I have never had a Moschino show in New York besides H&M and I thought there would be nothing more quintessential New York than the subway,” said Scott, who lived in the city when he attended Parsons School of Design. “I love all the people and characters you experience and the way it’s a melting pot of style. When I was in school, I remember the subway being a spotlight when you were dressed up, because it’s very brightly lit. It’s already like a runway.”

Inside a Bluebird World’s Fair car. 
Anthony Caccamo/New York Transit Museum

At the museum, guests will also be able to learn about the history of the New York City subway, bus and commuter rail systems. “They have all the old subway cars going from the 1940s, when they had wicker seats, and all the ads from

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Duro Olowu RTW Spring 2020

In the midst of back-to-back shows, London-based Duro Olowu offered a select few showgoers and friends of his brand, including artists, historians and curators, the opportunity to have a break and view a collection at a very different type of pace.
Taking over a Mayfair town house that resembled a giant cabinet of curiosities, Olowu sat in the living room alongside his guests talking through each garment, as two models took turns showcasing the looks in his spring 2020 collection.
Françoise Gilot — an artist, the former wife of Picasso and “the only one who managed to leave him” — was Olowu’s main point of reference, for the effortless way she carried herself.
He married references to Gilot’s elegant style with the energy of Eighties’ dance-hall music to create a more current look of his own that was luxurious and laid-back.
“I think that if I found myself in Kingston in the Eighties with Françoise Gilot, we’d have a great time,” said Olowu. “She’d make elaborate clothes seem practical and that’s what we tried to achieve here.”
He worked some of the colors and patterns of Gilot’s sketches, drawn during trips to Venice, India and Senegal — into patchwork coats that juxtaposed painterly and non-painterly

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Eftychia RTW Spring 2020

It’s only been a year-and-a-half since Greek designer Eftychia Karamolegkou launched her brand, yet she already has managed to impress well-known tastemakers. Phoebe Philo snatched multiple looks from the brand within days after the merchandise hit the store. Gaia Repossi also places personal orders with her. With her approval, Eftychia seems to be a new guiding star for the Philophile, the nickname for those who are loyal to Philo’s vision at Celine.
Karamolegkou said she pretty much got tailoring figured out by herself one project after another through her bachelor and master of arts courses at Central Saint Martins. Her collection for spring 2020 is her take on Leonardo da Vinci’s “The Last Supper.” Instead of 12 men and one woman, however, there were 12 women and one man at the presentation. “The guy is Judas,” said the designer.
As a businesswear brand, Eftychia offers fine tailoring pieces and outerwear as well as blouses and skirts for a woman in power at a reasonable price point compared to, say, The Row or Bottega Veneta. It’s refreshing to see a brand that actually makes well-designed and wearable clothing coming from London once in a while.

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16Arlington RTW Spring 2020

The British fashion industry might be pondering big issues this season, including the mammoth 870-million-pound potential cost of Brexit, but the 16Arlington design duo Marco Capaldo and Kikka Cavenati offered a much-needed antidote to the gloom with a presentation-cum-dance-party that began London Fashion Week on a high note.
Drawing on their Italian roots, Capaldo and Cavenati looked to one of their all-time favorite muses, pop singer Raffaella Carrà. Channeling her high-octane glamour, they transformed a dark, central London basement into a joyful scene that was reminiscent of Italy in the Sixties: Models sporting sharp bobs and playful head scarves danced their way through the show like no one was watching.
The clothes telegraphed the same message of pure fun, with beaded jumpsuits, feather gowns galore, as well as lamé suits and cocooned minidresses featuring a Sixties-inspired swirl print.
“It was a nice time to bring our heritage in. Raffaella Carrà is the Italian gift that just keeps on giving; she is this exuberant, insanely talented performer, singer, dancer and we just wanted to inject that in our clothes,” said Capaldo. “Her music is all about feel-good and that’s aligned with 16Arlington, we want to be that beam of light in these dark times.”
The

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A.L.C. RTW Spring 2020

“For me, the story is these beautiful acid pastels, a new modern femininity and reinventing favorite classics from safari to a shirtdress,” Andrea Lieberman said of her upbeat spring line rooted in reality.
Upon first glance, the collection appeared colorful and charming, easy and romantic, inclusive of wardrobe enhancers in clean and modern silhouettes. She built up puff sleeves and other sleeve treatments on sweet tops and dresses meant to empower. “There’s something about having some volume in the sleeve. It’s about redefining proportions,” she added. A leather ruched top and flirty skirt set was a great example of how she brought a modern edge to feminine shapes.
Leaning on a thread of playfulness, acidic pastel colors topped tailoring and essential knit tops, while the print of the season was a hand-painted abstract butterfly rendered in two colorways. She riffed on men’s wear stripes in offbeat ways, and injected ease into a safari dress and skirt with soft flounces. Knits, too, were lightweight and fun, and included a beautiful pink pointelle dress and cream crochet set. “For me it’s about taking fabrics that we love, and putting more textural detail onto it. We’re definitely looking for that versatile, effortless moment for our

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Marc Jacobs RTW Spring 2020

In his show notes and during a preview on Wednesday night, Marc Jacobs acknowledged the Sept. 11 anniversary. For anyone who worked in this industry 18 years ago in a show-related capacity, the two are inextricably linked. “Where were you when you heard the news?” The answer is at or en route to a show; working at a show; casting a show, doing something show. (I was traveling down Fifth Avenue to Bryant Park in a taxi and saw the Towers in flames in front of me.) Jacobs heard the news in a phone call from a reporter — myself. He’d slept in since the night before, he’d thrown a huge postshow party on Pier 54 with views of the Towers. In the moment, carefree reverie. In the aftermath — bacchanal before carnage — a stark reminder of how quickly life can change, and of how little control we have of our destinies.
Heavy material in the lead-up to a fashion show (or in a piece about a fashion show), but given the timing of Jacobs’ show and party 18 years ago, it would have been odd for him not to reminisce. He lost a friend in the attacks, David Rivers.

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Badgley Mischka creates a Caribbean dream for its spring/summer 2020 collection

“Discover the glamour of the islands and all those beautiful, beautiful saturated colors.” Rough Cut (no reporter narration).


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Monse RTW Spring 2020

Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim went bucolic for spring.
Their inspiration — a farmer’s market — brought a lively sense of serenity into their lineup, which in keeping with the brand’s signature aesthetic played with deconstructions and twisted cuts.
Charming botanical patterns were splashed on the panels of jeans and chinos; printed on silk shirts, and mixed and matched with striped fabrics with a rustic feel for asymmetric dresses.
Perfectly combining a dose of edgy design with a sense of comfort and effortless coolness, the collection also featured gardener-apron-inspired skirts and cutout sweatshirts featuring prints developed in collaboration with Renee’s Garden, a supplier of heirloom and certified organic seeds, international hybrids and open-pollinated varieties.
Tailoring got a fresh makeover with applied utility pockets and intentionally unfinished elements, while jersey evening dresses looked equally chic and comfortable.
Injected with an intriguing sense of escapism, the Monse collection will bring the joy of the countryside to the hippest streets of the world next spring.

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Lela Rose RTW Spring 2020

“Do you like our ‘yellow brick rose?!’” Lela Rose excitedly giggled just before her spring show. The designer was referring to the runway of yellow rose petals, surrounded by white tablecloth-clad little round tables topped with various baked goods. “Café Lela,” as she called it, was set against the backdrop of New York’s cityscape and waterfront on Pier 64. 
The New York City skyline — or rather vintage postcards of the island — served as Rose’s jumping-off point for the collection. The show opened with literal takes — the cityscape printed on a pleated cotton cape-back dress or Central Park splashed across a belted cotton pale-pink number — and ended more abstract, with a layered pale pink over gold tulle gown that emulated the golden hour of sunset. 
Roses came big and small, embroidered or printed onto signature flirty cotton voile — the designer’s favorite fabric of the season — on dresses and sets with overcoats. A lightweight tiered dress with tricolored blooms and curled ruffles made for a strong look. Outside of florals, a navy and white crochet-knit dress with carwash hem felt fresh, while a blue point d’espirit blouson gown conveyed effortless romance and the “celebration of the city in

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Jason Wu Collection RTW Spring 2020

“It’s about beauty. I have never been edgy and cool. I don’t know how to do it. I want to do my best version of beauty,” said Jason Wu backstage at his spring show, held at Pier 17 in a postindustrial venue with large windows offering a spectacular view of the Brooklyn Bridge.
Is there anything wrong with wanting to create beautiful clothes? Not at all. Especially when a designer like Wu succeeds in interpreting what is classic, sophisticated and feminine with a fresh, lively touch. 
This season, Wu wanted to give a different twist to the idea of beauty he normally conveys with his clothes, which usually have a polished, “perfect” look. So he played with hand-washed fabrics, textures, sun-bleached effects, raw cut edges and intentionally unfinished details to give his elegant creations a lived-in, poetic and intriguing vibe.
The mood of slightly decadent romanticism was inspired by the images of fragile, dried flowers of Wu’s friend, photographer Maxime Poiblanc. 
His nocturnal-looking flowers were printed on a washed-silk pencil skirt worn with a coordinated bralette and a lightweight trenchcoat, as well as with an exquisitely draped dress punctuated by tiny crystal embroideries.
Leather was also treated to obtain an imperfect, wrinkled

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Adeam RTW Spring 2020

Hanako Maeda’s designs often have a personal connotation, and when conceptualizing her spring outing, she choose the place in Japan her parents are from — Yokohama — a seaside city and one of the first places in the country to open to the west, as inspiration. “It’s similar to Cape Cod in the U.S.,” she said of Yokohama. It’s a place where she spent a lot of time as a child, and judging from her collection, a place that clearly left an imprint on her.
Maeda is a conceptual designer who takes a theme and meditates on it, ushering in new silhouettes and ideas, all variations on her laser-focused ideas. For spring, she expanded on the idea of nautical through her signature East meets West lens.
Several times throughout the show, a piece was shown more than once — for example, a navy chunky knit with a white stripe on the sleeve and flap collar that had a detachable shoulder detail. Once it was shown with the sleeves buttoned up, and then later on in a sandy colorway with the sleeves unbuttoned, forming a new shape. The variations permutated the silhouette, giving her customer a convertibility, another theme she often riffs on.
Japanese

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Tomo Koizumi RTW Spring 2020

What gift can a creative mind give to the world? Answers may be many and very relative. In the case of Tomo Koizumi, his biggest gift to the world is his very unique, extravagant, flamboyant vision, which he brought to the stage for the second time at New York Fashion Week with a performance at the Marc Jacobs store on Madison Avenue.
“The gift from me to the world,” is how the Japanese designer explained the concept behind his presentation, which once again was supported by a stellar team, including Katie Grand, Pat McGrath, Guido Palau and Marc Jacobs, who offered the location. “I had a really big gift by having all these great people involved in my show last season and I wanted to give something back.”
In the basement of the store, a mysterious creature, a sort of glamorous gnome with cone hair and wonderful sparkling makeup, interpreted by transgender model Ariel Nicholson, captured the attention of guests with a dramatic silent play that touched on themes of transformation, love, death, happiness, humor, fatigue, obsession and fear. This catalogue of human emotions, expressed with gestures and poses, was enhanced by the seven giant frilled designs, including gowns, a short frock

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Street Style at New York Fashion Week Spring 2020

At New York Fashion Week, the street style can be just as intriguing as the looks on the runway.
Cooler September temperatures have made the street style set forgo their traditional summer wear for more layers, including printed suits and matching sets worn in both neutrals and colorful prints. The monochromatic look is also proving to be a favorite, with showgoers gravitating toward greens, purples and pinks.
Read More: What to Expect at New York Fashion Week Spring 2020

They Are Wearing: Fashion Week Street Style Spring 2020. 
Andrew Morales/WWD

Some have already begun tapping into Pantone’s spring 2020 color palette, with a few sporting the forecaster’s top ranking hue: Flame Scarlet.

They Are Wearing: Fashion Week Street Style Spring 2020. 
Andrew Morales/WWD

Others are putting more emphasis on their accessories, like one attendee who complemented her look with Christian Louboutin Measuring Tape Sandals and another who wore Gucci’s New York Yankees baseball cap.

They Are Wearing: Fashion Week Street Style Spring 2020. 
Andrew Morales/WWD

Click through the above gallery to see more New York Fashion Week spring 2020 street style photos, updated each day.  
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WATCH: How to

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Vfiles RTW Spring 2020

Once again fashion and music collided at the energetic Vfiles collective show, which took place on Thursday night at Brooklyn’s Barclays Center.
Performances by Rico Nasty, Erika Jayne and Brooke Candy, as well as YG, animated the event, which was organized in collaboration with London-based marketplace app Depop and which highlighted the talent of the four emerging designers selected from among an international group who submitted their applications this past summer.
The sculptures of artist Anna Uddenberg featuring women who either collapse on their suitcases or writhe out of them served as the starting point for Chinese designer Di Du, who recently graduated from the Royal College of Fine Arts Antwerp. A combination of dreamy, whimsical colors such as lilac and pink mixed with deconstructed lines and silhouettes sat at the core of her collection, which felt like the wardrobe of a space anime’s heroine. Standout pieces included teddy bear cowboy pants matched with an armor-like cutout top, a padded off-the-shoulder bodysuit with exaggerated sleeves, as well as a Seventies net mini frock featuring the halter neck made of a plastic bag handle.
Wesley Harriott’s designer Ricky Harriott, who is based in London, wanted to portray an empowered femininity with his well-executed lineup.

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A way-too-early look at the NHL’s 2020 RFA panic

If this summer is any clue, these 11 players are headed for contract showdowns. Plus, Jersey Foul of the week, a ring for Laura Branigan and more.
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Tadashi Shoji is in full bloom for spring/summer 2020

The Japanese designer titles his new line “Once Upon a Time in Japan.”


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Red Valentino RTW Spring 2020

Pierpaolo Piccioli captured the most immediate and lively spirit of a never-ending summer with his charming collection for the Red Valentino brand.
Delicacy and femininity joined a chic metropolitan appeal in the fresh eyelet pieces, spanning from miniskirts worn with cropped matching blouses to generously cut parkas paired with lace bottoms. Mainly worked in black and white, the chic cotton style also welcomed bright accents, including the vivid red of a pretty halter neck dress enriched by floral white embroideries.
An exotic note was introduced via the vibrant prints of tropical flowers and birds splashed on flowing frocks and pajama sets, while butterfly-shaped patchwork details added a cute touch to denim designs, such as a slipdress and a jumpsuit revealing an exposed back and ruffled embellishments at the shoulders.
The brand’s signature craftsmanship stood out on cotton crochet skirts and bikinis, exuding a free-spirited, boho-chic vibe.
Versatile at heart, the lineup offered plenty of options for the Red Valentino girls, who next summer will also have the chance to shine bright at pool parties thanks to the allover sequined frocks — their hyper-feminine appeal exalted by romantic bow ties.

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2020 trial date set for for R.Kelly, sisters seek ‘justice’

The sisters of singer R. Kelly hope their brother sees justice, after a federal judge in Chicago set a trial date of April 27, 2020. Rough Cut. (no reporter narration)


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Levi Strauss Exhibition Coming to San Francisco Museum in 2020

Storied American jeans maker Levi’s will be the subject of an exhibition opening next year in San Francisco.
“Levi Strauss: A History of American Style,” on view Feb. 13 to Aug. 9, 2020 at The Contemporary Jewish Museum, will be the largest public display of Levi Strauss & Co.’s archival materials ever assembled. Featuring more than 150 items (including vintage apparel and advertising materials, as well as ephemera related to the life of Levi Strauss the man), the exhibition will showcase the story of the Bavarian Jewish dry goods merchant in 19th-century San Francisco, the birth of his iconic blue jeans and its influence on American style and identity, according to press materials.
The museum’s curators worked with the brand to mine pieces from the Levi Strauss & Co. archives, located at the company’s headquarters in San Francisco.
In 1873, near the end of the Gold Rush, Levi Strauss obtained a U.S. patent with tailor Jacob Davis for the process of putting metal rivets in men’s work pants to increase their durability. Strauss’ civic and philanthropic contributions were fundamental to San Francisco’s municipal development, the exhibition will show, and the trajectory of the brand has reflected the changing American consciousness, from its initial

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Simone Biles Just Made Gymnastics History and the 2020 Olympics Can’t Come Soon Enough

Simone Biles, 2019 U.S. Gymnastics ChampionshipsNailed it!
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Willy Chavarria Men’s Spring 2020

Sex, love, glamour and immigration.
All these hot topics, mixed with masculine queer culture, set the tone for Willy Chavarria’s runway return to New York — and boy, was he missed.
Known for his Chicano heritage vibes, Chavarria’s former stint in the Nineties, the creation of “The Love Garage,” a club in San Fransisco that embraced rave culture and gritty house music, served as one of the key components of his take on what minimalism can mean.
In this case, the usually big, oversize silhouette that has defined Chavarria took a sophisticated turn that still managed to maintain a tough edge.

The first portion of the show showcased standouts such as a black washed satin robe with matching shorts, along with an array of flared and high-waisted denim numbers, often paired with souvenir jackets or matching oversize boxy shirts. Quilted leather handbags, an item typically associated with high luxury, adorned most of the models, along with black and gold chains used as necklaces, belts and handbags, which provided a refined touch.
Part two featured a collaboration with athletic brand K-Swiss: a Nineties California Chicano tennis prep collection — oversize pastels in blue and pink with a bit of neon that enhanced sweatshirts, baggy shorts and

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NBA free agents: Team-by-team lists for 2020 and 2021

Who are the upcoming free agents for the next two offseasons? We have the lists for every team in the league.
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Beaufille RTW Spring 2020

Chloé and Parris Gordon drew on their recent, first visit to Japan for inspiration, and delivered a clean, modern lineup with a healthy amount of artistry. They used a bright orange, ultra-thin yet super-strong fabric to craft a series of romantic blouses and dresses — unfussy cuts with carefully dosed ruffled accents, or puffy sleeves. Also uplifting: a paper-thin waxed cotton made into a bright, orange rain dress. Who needs a traditional raincoat?
The pair likes to take their clients from day to evening. With this in mind, they crafted a transformable, button-up blouse with an extra flap to wrap around the neck like a handkerchief; similarly transformable, a tan suit jacket, with straps to cinch around the waist or leave open, with a different effect. Trained at a design school in Nova Scotia that teaches all stages of the garment-making process — down to weaving materials to make fabric — the designers seek to make sturdy, well-made pieces that exude effortless chic. In a nod to their artistic mother, who encouraged their creativity growing up — they recalled she would unfurl rolls of brown paper for them to decorate — they used one of her paintings as a pattern for

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Zoë Jordan RTW Spring 2020

Zoë Jordan worked a lively, Ibiza-flavored lineup of sporty knitwear apt for the festival circuit — or the beach. Keeping things easy, her signature cashmere tracksuits came in chic ivory tones or bright, tie-dyed numbers, reflecting her lifestyle change from the city in London to that Mediterranean outcrop where the jet-set crowd lets loose. Long, mesh tops with low, drawstring waists came in lizard green or melon yellow, new accents in a universe dominated by pinks and oranges; an Eighties-flavored layer to toss over a swimsuit. Slightly distressed touches and cutout holes added a touch of shabby chicness of the techno-festival sort, including the frayed bottom of a tie-died skirt and holes in the arms of a bright pink sweater that was dip-dyed — a new technique for the label. Also new, a crocheted dress, cut like an extra-long tank top, all stripes. The sportier looks were also striped, including halter tops and shorts, anchoring the profusion of papaya-pink.

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Responding to Controversy, CES to Sanction Sextech at 2020 Expo

Amid intense criticism and accusations of gender bias, organizers of the Consumer Electronics Show have given an official sanction to sextech companies to display their wares at next year’s expo.
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Isabel Marant Étoile RTW Spring 2020

For the spring collection of Isabel Marant’s Étoile line, the designer worked her trademark volumes into a fashionable lineup that melded seduction with comfort. Amped-up shoulders added heft — on a feminine, embroidered peasant blouse or gray acid washed jean jackets and vests. There were a lot of one-piece looks, including a vest-shorts combo in a faded tie-dye print, a long trouser jumpsuit in a western-inspired floral pattern and a dark boiler suit, cinched at the ankle, with ample volumes on the shoulders and arms. Fluidity came in the form of airy blouses and flower-printed dresses in silk chiffon while structured numbers included a double-breasted flannel suit and quilted jackets. In the footwear department, choices included ivory cowboy boots or studded white wide-leg heels.

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Maticevski Resort 2020

With his second runway outing during the Paris couture shows — the first was two years ago — Australian designer Toni Maticevski stayed true to his structural ethos, intentionally blurring the boundaries between his couture and resort pieces so the observer struggled to tell them apart.
Taking moths and butterflies as one of his themes — notably their metamorphosis and the way they are attracted to a flame — he draped and built his chrysalis-like shapes, encasing the body.
His structured and draped tailoring curled up around the face like flower petals — a recurrent theme in Maticevski’s designs. Voluminous ruffles like intricately woven cocoons sheathed several more dramatic looks.
Embroidered panels like moths’ wings fluttered on the backs of gowns in black and white, just one of the intentionally clashing patterns — a rarity for the designer — Maticevski built into the collection. In the same register, he mixed animal motifs, including leopard butterflies and zebra moths.
The metallic glitter of several looks, including draped tailoring and gowns in burgundy or black or, in a more extreme manifestation, with panels and ruffles of aluminum foil-coated translucent silk, suggested the attraction of a torch at night.

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Versace Resort 2020

Donatella Versace went Western for resort.
The signature cowboy aesthetic met the brand’s quintessential sensuality and femininity in a flamboyant, strong collection.
Foulard and Western motifs were combined with Versace’s signature baroque patterns on silk dresses showing draping, knots and bold shoulders, these last also defining a leather jacket worn with a handkerchief skirt printed with a desert view at sunset.
Baroque insets peppered suede outerwear and studs, as well as rhinestones, drew graphic motifs on denim trucker jackets.
Inspired by blankets, fringed coats were decorated by jacquard motifs reproducing Gianni Versace’s autograph, which also became an all-over Swarovski pattern on a two-tone dress showing a plunging V-neck.
Suits came with mannish elongated blazers matched with flared pants, while tweed in vibrant colors gave a refined attitude to mini skirts and frocks worn with coats enriched with very Versace motifs. Meanwhile, leopard patterns worked in sunset-inspired colors put the accent on the brand’s wildest side.

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St. John Resort 2020

Over the past few seasons, the St. John woman has been offered expanded categories in the brand’s staples — knitwear for day and evening, extended sportswear and private-jet-esque getaway loungewear, along with more modern takes on their classic tweed jackets. For the resort season, the St. John team steered toward more graphic waters through a maritime-influenced lineup. Prints were more literal — there were colorful nautical scarf prints on silk dresses and blouses — and knitwear were given sail-knot-like stitches and cross-hatch buttons. 
Another main emphasis of the collection came from the idea of monochromatic layerings head-to-toe, as in luxurious but easy knit sets, aquatic natured in scuba and sale blues or more subtle in cork, navy and cream neutrals. Elsewhere, a navy trenchcoat and baby-cuffed trousers helped to refresh the brand’s more signature, updated offerings.

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Andrew Gn Resort 2020

Andrew Gn is an avid collector of antiques, so it was only a matter of time before vintage fabrics found their way into his designs. In addition to channeling old porcelain patterns and wallpaper motifs in his resort collection, he has also incorporated a stock of lace from the Sixties.
“I hate wastage,” explained Gn, adding that using dead stock, some of which he buys at auction, dovetails with his approach of designing heirloom pieces that women will keep and wear for a long time. “We try to produce less and produce only the best.”
The vintage black lace was used as an overlay on the pleated skirt of a pink dress, and was mirrored in the modern guipure-and-lace medallion design on its bodice.
That oval pattern, borrowed from a Forties-era greeting card that he found at a flea market, appeared on everything from a casual ivory sweater to a monochrome blouse worn with a raw-edged miniskirt covered in oversized lettering spelling out the word “butterfly.”
Indeed, the insect was another recurring theme, rendered in graphic black lace on a white tweed coat, and in psychedelic sequined appliquès on Sixties-tinged evening wear. You could picture the bell-sleeved Empire-line dresses on someone like Marisa Berenson,

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Alexis Mabille Resort 2020

With a closet as chock-full as her agenda, Alexis Mabille’s A-list client needs an extra reason to splash out on something new. Here’s what he thought she could use: a gown sturdy enough to be tucked away in a small suitcase — and unfurled when needed. Elegance in an instant.
Not that one could imagine squeezing any of these long, silky dresses into luggage.
Mabille kept the resort collection soothing and easy — always on the upper end of the luxury scale. His signature cape dresses came with V-necks, skimming the knee or the floor. The color palette felt fresh, with lots of whites, pale pinks and a bit of black. Another trademark silhouette — the short bustier dress — came in bright red, lined with a spray of jagged-edged tulle on the top of the chest and at the bottom. Adding to the fluidity of this lineup were draped dresses, asymmetric numbers in a peach pink, the folds worked just-so, enhancing the right places — the shoulders and a hip. A flattering, floor-length dress in black with a slightly splayed collar and long sleeves had a timeless feel to it, a surefire hit. Patches of lace, the occasional bow and sprigs

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MM6 Maison Margiela Resort 2020

A fun teenage vibe ran through MM6’s resort collection, inspired by Eighties high school movies and rebellious adolescents.
Oversize Alice bands were worn with pink shirtdresses with a removable ruffled stole — very “Pretty in Pink” — or a long denim coat with a nipped-in waist, imitating a ballgown shape. A preppy plaid shirt had an added half bustier stuck to its front while deep V-neck sweaters were embroidered with the year 1994 — the “year of the family” for the MM6 studio. Unsurprisingly, no further details were revealed.
Familiar Margiela tropes, such as trompe-l’oeil pieces and upcycled materials, were woven throughout the collection. A long, black cotton dress with polka dots looked creased from afar — it was actually printed with photographs of rumpled satin.
Dresses, skirts and a pastel version of the Maison Margiela lab coat were crafted out of dead stock towels in light blue, pink and turquoise. Each piece sported a different version of the material’s flower print: As with most upcycled pieces, not one garment was the same. Leftover scraps were turned into boxy shoulder bags, pool slides and even a pair of boots.
The label introduced a new size for its Japanese bag, which now comes with a

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Yeohlee Resort 2020

Yeohlee Teng is fashion’s quiet pioneer. She left behind the traditional wholesale model to focus on experiential retail years ago, and focused on concepts like gender fluidity and sustainability before they become hot-button issues. Her resort collection continued the conscious thread from fall, utilizing only archival fabrics that in effect produces less waste.
At face value, the collection was fluid and drapey, brimming with minimalist geometric details the designer has long championed. The flag drapes on a metallic dress were rectangles. The back of a high-waisted faille and satin skirt was stitched in a way that created a rounded shape in back. Stripes were a recurring motif, ranging from a textured seersucker top with malleable sleeves to a knit skirt meticulously cut in one piece that transitioned from a straight grain to bias grain to cross grain.
Conceptually, there were harmonious design contrasts that reflected life’s beautiful chaos, underscored by the idea of creating interest around sustainable fashion through thoughtful design. “The collection is built around not just the fabrics from the archive, it’s also a contrast of weight, texture and weave,” Teng said in her showroom, adding: “There’s soft and collapsible, hard and woven, plays on shine and matte; it’s about

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Reem Acra Resort 2020

“It’s kind of disco, but bohemian at the same time.…Why not go into your evening looking like this?” remarked Reem Acra during a walk-through of her fall collection, pointing to look book images of models clad in her dresses, which she referred to as “couture,” accessorized with new headscarves. “I wanted to show a new way of dealing with couture, and giving it a bit of an edge without going overboard,” Acra said of her designs. In place of fall’s golden armour, the designer debuted a tightly edited, “mini” collection of fresh, Seventies-influenced disco-meets-bohemian dresses for the resort season. 
“All of the drama,” Acra described. Gowns were light as air with tulle trains and capes (both attached or as separates), while even her full beaded offerings held lightness in their pastel palette of lavender, blush and blues against the metallics of silver and gold. Acra’s handwork and meticulous placement of embellishments against her fluid fabrics made for a strong collection, especially when it came to a long-sleeve lavender number with purposely mesh-encased embellished belt — no snagging here. All the opulence and glamour while being free spirited and easy, without the worry.

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Roberto Cavalli Resort 2020

Following the departure last March of creative director Paul Surridge, the Roberto Cavalli design team rolled up its sleeves and presented a resort collection, which felt both interesting and commercially savvy.
With the company going through a transitional phase, the design team celebrated the theme of the metamorphosis, which reflected in the appealing foulard prints populated by imaginative hybrid animals, such as the leo-rhino and the winged leopard. These pattern were splashed on fluid silk shirts matched with coordinated pants, while a magnified allover version of the same motifs peppered the urban bombers and parkas in a technical cotton.
The brand’s signature feminine sensuality resulted in the bias-cut chiffon and georgette slipdresses and trenches printed with a mix and match of leopard and giraffe spots. The liquid feel of these styles was counterbalanced by the airy, breezy lines of cotton frocks embellished with the colorful tiger-python print.

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Emilia Wickstead Resort 2020

Emilia Wickstead gave the concept of trans-seasonal dressing a literal interpretation with her latest resort range, shooting half the collection against a snow-filled, alpine backdrop and the other half against illustrations of bright blue skies and the seaside.
The clothes — a mix of chic jumpsuits and midi dresses in the designer’s signature crepe fabric, light PVC trenchcoats or easy tailoring — seemed to easily transition between the two climates, the only difference being that sunglasses where often swapped for wooly hats and gloves.
Apart from demonstrating her commercial savvy by offering a pre-collection that transcends weather conditions, Wickstead wanted to navigate different holiday destinations with this range, to channel the charm and the glamour associated with travel in the old world.
She immersed herself in the pages of “Holiday” magazine, which was in its heyday from the Forties to the Seventies, and looked to translate the exuberant, aspirational travel lifestyle from its pages for a modern-day and equally travel-obsessed audience.
“Even Truman Capote was part of one of their first editions, as a writer. It was just the most prestigious and famous magazine, every single person dreamed of this holiday world and lifestyle. Its covers were ahead of its time and always very

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Way-too-early picks for the 2020 Hockey Hall of Fame class

Who should be enshrined next year? We take a look at the top 10 candidates, along with other intriguing first-year-eligible players.
www.espn.com – NHL

Jacquemus Spring 2020

The roving cruise and men’s shows this season have taken the fashion pack to destinations as far-flung as Marrakech, Malibu and Shanghai. And so it was that a day after the close of Paris Fashion Week Men’s, a clutch of editors found themselves sitting in a lavender field somewhere in the South of France.
Guests including Emily Ratajkowksi, Jeanne Damas and Bruna Marquezine gathered near the small town of Valensole in Provence to help Simon Porte Jacquemus celebrate the 10th anniversary of his label with his first joint women’s and men’s show.
An hour’s drive north of Aix-en-Provence, they arrived in rolling lavender fields where a pink felt ribbon of a runway unfurled as far as the eye could see, against the stunning backdrop of the Alpilles mountain chain.
“I wanted a place that looked like a postcard — almost too much like a postcard, even. It was important to me to turn that cliché into something artistic, with that pink line running through the middle like a contemporary art installation by Christo, or a painting by David Hockney,” the designer told WWD.
The invitation came in the form of a small bottle of SPF 50 sunscreen printed with the words “Le Coup de

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Celine Men’s Spring 2020

“I have nostalgia for things I probably have never known.” The slogan embroidered on one of the big straw totes on the Celine runway could well summarize Hedi Slimane’s design ethos, though he would probably dispute that.
Suffice it to say that his childhood heroes — David Bowie, Serge Gainsbourg and The Clash, to name a few — are largely to credit for his trademark androgynous, elongated silhouettes. And with the designer working a Seventies groove, those influences loomed large over his spring men’s collection.
The sentence in question was actually borrowed from a painting by David Kramer, one of five artists who collaborated with Slimane this season, alongside Zach Bruder, André Butzer, Darby Milbrath and Carlos Valencia. “My own worst enemy,” read another — though we’ll resist the temptation to analyze that.
Paired with a pinstripe jacket, denim shirt and flares, aviator shades and white shoes, the straw bag had a distinctly Gainsbourgian panache. Those high-waisted faded jeans were worn with everything from a shrunken leather bomber jacket to a seersucker tuxedo coat — picture the Rolling Stones recording “Exile on Main Street” in the south of France.
Items like dungarees, straw boater hats and a gold lamé jacket brought to mind another

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Myar Men’s Spring 2020

Myar is showing its colors for spring. Andrea Rosso’s army uniform upcycling label this season matched military-sourced camouflage with multi-hued patterns from deadstock Hawaiian shirts, calling the collection Re_­Aloha. “We love to mix together two worlds that don’t belong together in a very harmonic way,” he explained.
The combinations’ visual effects are striking and fun. Pieces of a Hawaiian shirt, cut into camouflage shapes, were superimposed onto some uniforms. A green military fatigue pocket popped up on a similarly hued shirt emblazoned with palm trees. Blue military trousers took on a playful quality with piping made of shirting material.
On a number of garments, silhouettes of palm trees had been hand-stamped. “Every time it comes out differently,” Rosso said.
As in past seasons, Myar clothing comes with pouches containing excess fabric from its making-of. But this time, each also has a QR code through which it’s possible for people to learn about the provenance of the items and how they’ve been customized.
In another first, Myar created a dress, made of two military shirts put together. “Our biggest clients actually are females,” explained Rosso. “We have a unisex approach to the collection, even though these items are 100 percent made for men.”
The brand’s collaboration with

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Jil Sander Men’s Spring 2020

The heat of the desert and the cobbled streets of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern towns hung over this spare, elegant collection, which had a subtle, exotic flavor.
Lucie and Luke Meier’s shapes ranged from the boxy to the languid, with the color, pattern and texture doing most of the talking.
An elongated, marine blue shirtdress; a spare, branch-like design on the back of a long, sweeping coat, and the fringes or tassels on a sweater were among the standouts.
Luke said fluid tailoring remains the way forward for the brand, which has long been synonymous with pared-back shapes and fine details. Lucie added that the collection’s value lies in its subtlety, its “poetry and detail,” and its lightweight fabrics.
The couple have been turning their hands and minds to sustainability, too, working materials such as organic banana fiber into pieces such as the black-and-white trenchcoat that appeared in the show. Lucie said the fiber is a dream because it behaves like gazar, but it’s lighter and offers structure without the stiffness.
All of that fabric research meant that even the simplest of pieces sang — the boxy khaki workwear suits, the navy overcoats and those oversized, billowy white cotton shirts, fit for long strolls under

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Etro Resort 2020

In keeping with the brand’s plan to create closer synergies between the women’s and men’s lines, Etro women’s wear creative director Veronica Etro infused her resort collection with a desert, adventurous theme, which also stood out in the men’s lineup unveiled by her brother Kean during Milan Men’s Fashion Week.
But Veronica Etro did things her way, combining a bohemian, free-spirited vibe, infused with Seventies references, with a cool, urban preppy attitude and a boyish feel.
Mainly playing with a color palette of neutral tones mixed with charming, yet never too sweet pastels and introducing easy fabrics, such as cotton, she found a new sense of lightness, which felt refreshing. Finding a balance between constructions and embellishments, she matched essential shapes with richer patterns and played with more sophisticated proportions with solids or more neutral prints.
While dresses featured roomy sleeves and plissé details, jacquard suits with mannish blazers and cropped pants revealed a tomboy feel. Beautiful cardigans revealed patchworks of patterns echoing the heritage of desert tribes, which also peppered the inserts of a cool striped hooded shirt jacket.
Suede fringed jackets, a white tone-on-tone white denim suit — its jacket cut in a kimono-inspired silhouette — oversize striped shirts with crests worn

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The 20/20 Experience – The Complete Experience – Justin Timberlake

Justin Timberlake - The 20/20 Experience - The Complete Experience  artwork

The 20/20 Experience – The Complete Experience

Justin Timberlake

Genre: Pop

Price: $ 15.99

Release Date: September 27, 2013

© ℗ 2013 RCA Records, a division of Sony Music Entertainment

iTunes Store: Top Albums in Pop

The 20/20 Experience – The Complete Experience – Justin Timberlake

Justin Timberlake - The 20/20 Experience - The Complete Experience  artwork

The 20/20 Experience – The Complete Experience

Justin Timberlake

Genre: Pop

Price: $ 15.99

Release Date: September 27, 2013

© ℗ 2013 RCA Records, a division of Sony Music Entertainment

iTunes Store: Top Albums in Pop

The 20/20 Experience – 2 of 2 – Justin Timberlake

Justin Timberlake - The 20/20 Experience – 2 of 2  artwork

The 20/20 Experience – 2 of 2

Justin Timberlake

Genre: Pop

Price: $ 10.99

Release Date: September 30, 2013

© ℗ 2013 RCA Records, a division of Sony Music Entertainment

iTunes Store: Top Albums in Pop

Lindsay Lohan Wants To Run For President In 2020 — Yes, Really

Lindsay Lohan just announced that she’d like to run for President of the United States in 2020 because the Queen of England taught her how to stop the suffering of children.
News

American Voices: NYT Aims To Double Revenue By 2020

The New York Times has assured investors that despite downward trends in the print media industry, they intend to double revenue by 2020, aiming to corner the digital subscriber market and draw in a younger contingent of readers. What do you think?




The Onion

Kanye West still on for 2020 presidency

Rapper Kanye West has said he is ‘definitely’ still running for US president in 2020, although hasn’t said which political party he will represent. Rollo Ross reports.


Reuters Video: Entertainment

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Jesus Christ Descends From Heaven To Endorse Bernie Sanders. But First, Will Kanye Run in 2020?

2015-09-19-1442691086-5250589-HEAVEN.jpg

Burlington, Vermont – In a move of theological and cosmic significance the magnitude of which can’t be expressed in words, the son of God descended from Heaven specifically to wish Democratic candidate Bernie Sanders luck in 2016. The two exchanged words briefly, after Jesus Christ told Sanders they share the same views on wealth inequality and Bernie’s plan “gets it.”

After God’s meeting with Sanders, fivethirtyeight reported a new poll showing Clinton holding firm on her lead nationally.

The news of God’s eagerly awaited visit to Earth was overshadowed, however, by a decision that stunned the political world.

The same day the Messiah endorsed Sanders, media and politicos focused only on Kanye West’s official decision to run.

Yes, he’s running folks, and he’s serious.

The famed rapper told fans and the media via Twitter and skywriting above Malibu that he plans on winning the White House in 2020.

“This is huge,” says an anonymous Democratic strategist. “Kanye’s appeal is genuine and his ability to connect with Americans and bring excitement to progressives is something lacking today.”

Some observers weren’t too enthusiastic and one Republican strategist displayed skepticism. “Yes, he’s a popular entertainer,” said the GOP official. “But Americans are too smart to back a candidate simply because of ratings. This is America, people.”

In a bold move separating himself from Hillary Clinton, West and an unnamed Silicon Valley tech firm introduced a computer firewall program called “Convenience.”

A spokesman for West said the introduction of his computer anti-virus product isn’t a reference to ongoing scandal. “It’s convenient, ok,” snapped the spokesman for Kanye West. “That’s the only reason we named it ‘Convenience,’ not for any other reason.”

TMZ is hosting an official launch party televised globally next month at the Staple Center in Los Angeles. Tickets go on sale tomorrow.

As a side note to the previous story, God’s meeting with Bernie Sanders reversed 70 years of global warming.

In other news, Americans are eating more kale. More on the nutritious superfood shortly.

— This feed and its contents are the property of The Huffington Post, and use is subject to our terms. It may be used for personal consumption, but may not be distributed on a website.




Comedy – The Huffington Post
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The Democratic Party Reacts To Kanye West’s 2020 Presidental Run

Kanye West announced his candidacy for the 2020 presidential election at the 2015 MTV Video Music Awards.


HipHopDX News

Everyone Is Totally Voting for Kanye West When He Runs for President in 2020

#YeWeCan #Kanye2020 #KanyeforPresident2020 #InYeezusWeTrust

Don’t mind us. We’re just trying out some hashtags for when Kanye West runs for president of the United States in…


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Kanye for president? West says at VMAs you’ll see him on the ballot in 2020

“I just wanted people to like me more,” the rapper told the VMAs audience, before sharing how his opinion changed.


TODAY Pop Culture

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Kanye West Is Running For President In 2020

Kanye West, greatest human on earth, announced Sunday that he will be running for president of the United States of America in 2020.

“I have decided in 2020 to run for president,” West said Sunday at the VMAs. The announcement naturally led to huge applause for the future leader of the free world. 

The announcement was made during West’s acceptance of the Video Vanguard Award. As it is only 2015, there will still have to be an interim president elected in the meantime in 2016. 

West also discussed additional things during the speech, such as his grocery shopping habits, the children, art and a bunch of other stuff. But none of that matters now. 

Update — 11:18 p.m.: Khloe is down.

 

Also on HuffPost: 

For a constant stream of entertainment news and discussion, follow HuffPost Entertainment on Viber.

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Style – The Huffington Post
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Kanye West Announces He Is Running For President In 2020 #VMAs [VIDEO]

Kanye West announced that he is running for President of the United States in 2020 during his acceptance of the Vanguard Award at the 2015 MTV VMAs. Was Yeezy being serious? 

Does it really matter?

Taylor Swift present West with the award after a montage extolling the rapper’s greatness, which he surely agreed with.

Watch some quotables from the speech below while we wait for the full version to be made available.

Photo MTV

The post Kanye West Announces He Is Running For President In 2020 #VMAs [VIDEO] appeared first on Hip-Hop Wired.

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The Vaccines reveal video to 20/20

The Vaccines have announced details of the release of 20/20, the new single from their recently released third album, English Graffiti
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