Maticevski RTW Spring 2020

For Australian designer Toni Maticevski, designing around a theme is no longer working out. “It’s really weird. I’ve stopped trying to figure it out,” he said ruefully during a showroom appointment. What he thought about instead: how good a spring morning feels — clear skies, bright light and the scent of dew-saturated earth.
He embodied the latter as touches of sheen or darker tones; the bright light in flattering pinky-beiges, and the breeze in fabrics meant to obscure without hiding the skin. Given his proclivity for architectural draping, the result could have easily felt too formal. Here, his sculptural approach was reined in by softer fabrics and felt more relatable, especially with new daywear options.
Among the standouts: A light gray striped dress looked blowsy, while soft tuffs dotting white gauze fabric evoked sun-dappled surfaces. A jersey T-shirt gave an editor-off-duty look to a pencil skirt. The soft hand of a silk blend made a top and matching trousers skew more relaxed but still smart.
The lighter materials of the collection made tailored pieces stand out. A double-breasted blazer felt at once familiar and fresh, while a check overcoat toed the line between sporty and statement thanks to its kimono-inspired proportions. “My idea of

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Maticevski Resort 2020

With his second runway outing during the Paris couture shows — the first was two years ago — Australian designer Toni Maticevski stayed true to his structural ethos, intentionally blurring the boundaries between his couture and resort pieces so the observer struggled to tell them apart.
Taking moths and butterflies as one of his themes — notably their metamorphosis and the way they are attracted to a flame — he draped and built his chrysalis-like shapes, encasing the body.
His structured and draped tailoring curled up around the face like flower petals — a recurrent theme in Maticevski’s designs. Voluminous ruffles like intricately woven cocoons sheathed several more dramatic looks.
Embroidered panels like moths’ wings fluttered on the backs of gowns in black and white, just one of the intentionally clashing patterns — a rarity for the designer — Maticevski built into the collection. In the same register, he mixed animal motifs, including leopard butterflies and zebra moths.
The metallic glitter of several looks, including draped tailoring and gowns in burgundy or black or, in a more extreme manifestation, with panels and ruffles of aluminum foil-coated translucent silk, suggested the attraction of a torch at night.

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Maticevski Resort 2018

For his debut Paris presentation, rising Australian designer Toni Maticevski stuck to his signature sculptural silhouettes, mashing contrasting textures like sports mesh, tailoring and ornate brocades.
The moods meandered, too, from dark sexy creations showing a bit of skin to long double-breasted jackets in rose brocade and souffle tulle gowns, albeit with abstract constructions that tempered the princess tone.
Slogans nodded to titles of previous collections, like The Elegant Rebel or Tomboy Heiress, with the designer also incorporating a print inspired by old movie titles from the Thirties and Forties that lent a shadowy, melancholic note.
More From Paris Haute Couture Week Fall 2017:
Christian Dior Couture Fall 2017: As the house of Dior turns 70, Maria Grazia Chiuri designed her fall couture collection an homage to the house founder.
Atelier Versace Couture Fall 2017: The collection blended Baroque references and rock ‘n’ roll — with a soupçon of 3-D printing.
Iris Van Herpen Couture Fall 2017: For her 10th anniversary show, the designer sent out aquatic-themed creations to a performance by underwater group Between Music.
Paris to Honor Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel Couture Show: Mayor Anne Hidalgo is to decorate the couturier with a Grand Vermeil medal, the city’s highest distinction.

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