Indigo Season: The Coolest Jeans and Jackets of Spring

Denim is a consummate American classic, but over time, the cuts and washes evolve. Here are the latest styles in jeans and jackets that’ll fit both you and the season just right.


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Spring 2020 denim jeans
Nigel Cox for Men’s Journal

Find the Right Fit: Jeans and Jackets

34 Heritage Cool Mid Rise Tapered: These offer room at the top and taper toward the ankles, giving the illusion of a slim cut.

[$ 195; 34heritage.com]

Polo Ralph Lauren Hampton Relaxed Straight: The pair has a neutral cut that looks good on most guys and transitions easily from day to night.

[$ 90; ralphlauren.com]

MAVI Jake Blue Black Athletic: This style is cut for long and lean body types: slim but not form-fitting.

[$ 118; mavi.com]

Spring 2020 denim jackets
Nigel Cox for Men’s Journal

Not Just for Truckers

Unless you still fit into the vintage denim jacket you wore in college (kudos, you), it’s time to nab a new one. If your look is modern, opt for a slim cut that looks correct atop a button-down shirt.

For everyday wear, pick a heritage design that’s loose enough to button over a sweatshirt. Here are three of our favorites, from left to right:

Rag & Bone Definitive Jacket

[$ 295; rag-bone.com]

Wrangler Icons 124MJ

[$ 49; wrangler.com]

Polo Ralph Lauren Faded Denim Trucker Jacket
[$ 168; ralphlauren.com]

The post Indigo Season: The Coolest Jeans and Jackets of Spring appeared first on Men's Journal.

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Conductor’s Guide to Copland’s Appalachian Spring, Billy the Kid, & Fanfare for the Common Man – Gerard Schwarz

Gerard Schwarz - Conductor's Guide to Copland's Appalachian Spring, Billy the Kid, & Fanfare for the Common Man  artwork

Conductor’s Guide to Copland’s Appalachian Spring, Billy the Kid, & Fanfare for the Common Man

Gerard Schwarz

Genre: Arts & Entertainment

Price: $ 3.99

Publish Date: January 25, 2006

© © 2006 Musically Speaking, Inc.

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Bernstein Century – Copland: Appalachian Spring, Rodeo, Billy the Kid, Fanfare for the Common Man (Billy The Kid) – Leonard Bernstein & New York Philharmonic

Leonard Bernstein & New York Philharmonic - Bernstein Century - Copland: Appalachian Spring, Rodeo, Billy the Kid, Fanfare for the Common Man (Billy The Kid)  artwork

Bernstein Century – Copland: Appalachian Spring, Rodeo, Billy the Kid, Fanfare for the Common Man (Billy The Kid)

Leonard Bernstein & New York Philharmonic

Genre: Classical

Price: $ 9.99

Release Date: January 1, 1997

© ℗ Originally released 1960, 1962, 1967 SONY BMG MUSIC ENTERTAINMENT (P) 1992 SONY BMG MUSIC ENTERTAINMENT

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The NCAA Division I Council voted Monday to grant an extra year of eligibility to all student-athletes in spring sports whose seasons were canceled because of the coronavirus pandemic.
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The Urban Chameleon: Exploring New York With Kenneth Cole’s Spring Collection

Things move pretty fast in the city. If you want to navigate it and enjoy everything that urban life has to offer, you need to be quick on your feet, comfortable, and able to transition seamlessly through a range of moods and environments. Ask any savvy urbanite, and they’ll tell you that having a wardrobe that can keep up is absolutely essential. Which is why we love Kenneth Cole’s new spring collection. Versatile and dripping with style, these picks are a perfect match for modern city living.

We recently put some of KC’s Techni-Cole shoes to the test while exploring New York City with full-time electrician and renowned mens fashion blogger Eric Wertz (how’s that for a resume?). As both an expert on laid-back-yet-tasteful menswear and a Brooklyn native, he was the perfect guide for shopping the Techni-Cole line and seeking out hidden gems across the city. From cutting edge urban farming to making the next great American whiskey and more, there’s so much to discover in New York—all you need is an adventurous spirit, and some quality staple pieces to keep you comfortable and looking good. Read on for our guide to some of the city’s best kept secrets and the Techni-Cole shoes that are must-haves for any urban explorer.


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Gotham Greens
Ryan Slack

Gotham Greens

Here’s one thing you probably didn’t expect to find in the five boroughs: A sprawling farm perched on a rooftop. Since launching in 2009, Gotham Greens has become a leader in sustainable urban farming thanks to its high-tech approach to growing crops. All of the company’s produce is grown inside climate-controlled greenhouses—including a 60,000-square foot rooftop space in Queens—and the company uses machine learning technology to monitor plant health, cut back on energy and water use, and produce impressively high yields.

Whether you’re exploring a greenhouse or meeting up with friends, you need footwear that’s up for anything. What you need is a pair of Kenneth Cole Mello Lace-Up Oxfords. With their leather upper and breathable textile sock lining, these versatile kicks strike just the right balance between sporty and refined. They’re also built for all-day comfort: PImpact Pods in the sole provide optimal cushioning, and a grooved outsole helps the shoe flex with your feet. That means you can go from brunch to bike to hurry-up-and-catch-that train with ease.

[$ 165; kennethcole.com]

 

kenneth cole
Ryan Slack

The Streets of Bushwick

There are few Brooklyn neighborhoods more iconic than Bushwick, a renowned haven for street art and home to a constantly growing assortment of unique bars and restaurants. If you like getting off the beaten path (and avoiding crowds of tourists), this is the place to be. Murals abound, and walking the streets is a great way to experience the incredible range of art. If you’re looking for a guide, check out the guided street art tour from Brooklyn Unplugged—starting at 10:30 a.m. daily, it’s a great way to see some of the neighborhood’s best pieces. Then you can cap things off with a tasty pie from Roberta’s.

We spent some time pounding the pavement to scope out Bushwick’s hot spots, and the Kenneth Cole Liam Sneaker was the perfect companion. With a sleek leather upper that you can dress up or down, a triple-layer cushioned midsole, and a breathable microfiber interior lining, these shoes can mesh with any outfit and keep your feet comfy through a day of urban trekking.

[$ 129; kennethcole.com]


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Kings County Distillery
Ryan Slack

Kings County Distillery

Kentucky isn’t the only place with award-winning bourbon. You can also find top-shelf whiskey in New York: Just head directly to Kings County Distillery. It’s the oldest and largest distillery in the city, and it’s located in a historic building in the Brooklyn Navy Yard (an area that’s definitely worth checking out). Every Kings County whiskey is mashed, fermented, distilled, and aged onsite, and there are several varieties to choose from (even a delicious chocolate whiskey flavored with cacao bean husks). Pop in for a tasting at the Gatehouse room any day, or stop by for a tour of the full distillery on Wednesday through Sunday afternoons.

It might not feel like it yet, but spring and summer are around the corner, and the Liam Leather Slip-On Sneaker makes a great addition to any warm weather outfit. Put simply, there’s a lot to love about this shoe. The lightweight sole features the Techni-Cole Rebound System for top-notch shock absorption and extra support, a memory foam insole provides a soft step-in feel, and a breathable lining will keep your feet cool when the mercury rises.

[$ 129; kennethcole.com]

kenneth cole
Ryan Slack

Yotel

The Yotel makes a great home base for exploring New York for the weekend. Located on the far west side of Manhattan, it’s just a few blocks from the High Line and the brand new Hudson Yards development. It might be the most tech-friendly hotel in the city: each room comes equipped with a smart TV and fully adjustable Smart Bed, and luggage is handled by a Yobot—a “robotic luggage concierge” that will keep your bags safe in one of 150 storage bins. And after a full day of adventures, you can relax and unwind with a cocktail on the hotel’s expansive outdoor terrace, one of the largest of any hotel in the city.

You can’t bring your whole closet with you when traveling, which is why we like the Nolan Bit Strap Snake Detail Loafer—it can pull double duty as a dress shoe and a casual shoe. The rich leather upper is refined enough for formal occasions, but the snakeskin details add some extra personality and help these shoes fit in well with more casual looks. There’s no compromise on comfort, either: A flexible rubber outsole and a padded footbed will keep your feet happy no matter where your day takes you.

[$ 175; kennethcole.com]

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The Best Leather Sneakers for Spring Cost Less Than $100

The search for the perfect everyday sneaker is a complicated affair. In most cases, especially if we’re talking spring and summer, you want a low-top shoe that gives your ankle a bit of breathing room so your jeans, chinos, or suit pants don’t rest on top—or, god forbid, billow over. Unless you’re a whiz at mixing prints and colors, you want to err on the side of simplicity. That’s not to say you can’t play with texture and pops of color, but a great everyday shoe has versatility. Too many embellishments will raise eyebrows, especially if you’re trying to pull this off at the office, and beat-up workout shoes will impress precisely, uh, nobody. We found the verifiable unicorn of casual sneakers that transcends the boundries of streetwear: Say hello to the Court Sneaker by Everlane.


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What It Is

This shoe, inspired by basketball shoes of yesteryear, is a followup to the brand’s first foray into footwear (Tread). Made in Thai Binh, Vietnam, with full-grain leather sourced from Saigon TanTec, a sustainable, eco-conscious tannery, The Court Sneaker is all about leaving a small carbon footprint and a big fashion statement. The sole comprises natural and recycled rubber that’s almost entirely free of virgin (newly made) plastic, and the lining is made from 100 percent recycled polyester. As for that carbon footprint we mentioned, Everlane partners with NativeEnergy to wholly offset the amount of total greenhouse gas emissions produced, lessening the shoe’s impact on the environment.

Everlane The Court Sneaker
Courtesy Image

Why We Like It

This is a casual sneaker, but the magic is in its subtleties. There’s a leather triangle on the inner belly of the shoe, as well as the outer, that’s imagined in a slightly darker shade or contrasting pop of color—unless you go for the monochromatic white or black options. The heel patch mirrors this color play, and is reminiscent of Adidas’ Stan Smith, only instead of that signature Kelly green, you get dusty rose, cloud grey, mustard, or forest. The stitching and vertical notches running along the back of the sole all add visual intrigue sans logo or label. It’s a minimalist design but don’t call it basic. Wear ’em with a suit or with jeans and a tee; they’re a stalwart in a capsule wardrobe.

The Court Sneaker also checks all our boxes when it comes to comfort. Even though they’re leather, they don’t stifle your feet after a day of standing or walking. They fit true to size and are easy to spot clean (we also appreciate that the white colorways aren’t blindingly pristine, so you don’t have to be on high alert about dirt. Perhaps most appealing, it clocks in under $ 100.


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2020 Spring Fashion That Looks Damn Good Everywhere

Planning a long weekend in New York City?  You can’t beat a stay at the brand-new 286-room Moxy East Village (showcased in these photos). Like the neighborhood it’s in, the Moxy has plenty of downtown style with lots of retro rock & roll flourishes. Our favorite touch? You can request a turntable—and selection of vinyl curated for any mood—delivered right to your room. Rock on! These spring looks will help inspire your next outing—whether it’s checking out that hot new hotel or just settling in to your dive bar of choice.


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Get the look (above): Todd Snyder Italian Dylan Suede Jacket ($ 998, toddsnyder.com); Perry Ellis Long Sleeve Untucked Chambray Shirt (price upon request, perryellis.com); Onia Miles Waffle Knit Henley ($ 75, onia.com); Tod’s 5 Pocket Jeans ($ 545, tods.com); Fratelli Rossetti Shoes ($ 700, fratellirossetti.com).

2020 spring fashion
Daniel Matallana for Men’s Journal

Get the look (above): Tod’s Biker in Leather Jacket ($ 4,175, tods.com); Outerknown Waterless Sweater ($ 128, outerknown.com); Levi’s Vintage Clothing 1947 501 Jeans ($ 265, levi.com).

2020 spring fashion
Daniel Matallana for Men’s Journal

Buck Mason Felted Chore Coat ($ 225, buckmason.com); Joseph Abboud Linen Scarf ($ 125, josephabboud.com); Brunello Cucinelli Cotton Sweater ($ 975, Brunello Cucinelli, NYC); BLDWN Modern Slim Trouser ($ 188, bldwn.com); UGG Beach Moc Slip-On ($ 125, ugg.com); TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11 Watch ($ 5,900, tagheuer.com); Dooney & Bourke Florentine Medium Duffle ($ 558, dooney.com).


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2020 spring fashion
Daniel Matallana for Men’s Journal

Brunello Cucinelli Denim Jacket ($ 1,595, Brunello Cucinelli, NYC); Buck Mason Pima Curved Hem Tee ($ 35, buckmason.com); Brunello Cucinelli Trouser ($ 795, Brunello Cucinelli, NYC); Tod’s White Competition Sneakers ($ 625, tods.com); Leatherology Kessler Large Signature Duffle ($ 365, leatherology.com).

 

The post 2020 Spring Fashion That Looks Damn Good Everywhere appeared first on Men's Journal.

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Levi’s Just Dropped the Must-Have Chinos for Spring

Everyone owns a pair of Levi’s. From the seminal 501 style to the 541 athletic cut, these guys have denim on lockdown. But the 167-year-old brand that invented jeans has its sights set on new territory with its latest collection. Levi’s has made a play into the chino game when it recently launched the Khalid for Levi’s XX Chino Collection. Needless to say, these aren’t your typical chinos.

Levi’s started by using its encyclopedic knowledge of fit and fabric to make this latest collection one that’s equal parts stylish and comfortable. This youthful approach to chinos is backed by a campaign featuring 21-year-old “Young, Dumb, and Broke” singer Khalid. “Khalid is the perfect embodiment of the Levi’s spirit—his authenticity, his personal style, and his optimism,” says Jennifer Sey, chief marketing officer of global brands. The collection strays from the typical chino offering with new, more street-smart styles (no bootcut here) inspired by its namesake.


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Here’s how the new fits work: There’s a Standard Taper fit for those who typically reach for a slim straight. If you like them even slimmer, try the Slim Taper fit. (Don’t worry about it being too tight; these pants all have stretch.) Then there’s a Straight Cropped that has a full leg (think 501) but is cropped just above the ankle. “These chinos are meant to be worn super-casual like a jean—all in a fun, youthful range of colors,” Sey says.


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Some of those colors are decidedly more playful, like pink and jade blue. But they’re available in trusty chino colors like khaki, black, and olive green, too. If you prefer a more casual, worn-in feel, the collection also has garment-dyed chinos—meaning it’s dyed after it’s sewn together instead of before. It’s the finishing touches that make a garment feel lived-in right off the rack.

Perhaps the best part of this new collection is the price: Everything’s under $ 80. They’re the fun, youthful, and pretty damn affordable way to break up your everyday denim rotation. So if you’re not wearing your favorite denim, you now have an option from the makers of the jeans you already love.

The Khalid for Levi’s XX Chino Collection is available now in stores and at levi.com.

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Amor Oral Adds New Tropical Fruity Flavors to Spring Collection

Amor Oral announced today that it has added five new flavors to its lineup, set to be released in time for spring. The new flavors include Peach Mango, Licorice, Tangerine, Pomegranate and Banana.
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Andy Samberg Has the Perfect Spring Haircut. Here’s How to Get It

For the March 2020 issue, on newsstands now, Andy Samberg honored lumberjacks of yore, with an axe and everything. But there were a couple things missing (intentionally) from his look: Samberg traded the big, bushy beard for some dialed-back scruff, and ditched the hat in order to showcase his wavy, bountiful hair. His grooming sits squarely in the middle of laidback and cleaned up.  

Want to mimic it? You can wear this hair-and-whiskers combo to most offices without anyone questioning your grooming habits—or rather, they’ll question them in the good sense. (What hair products? What beard trimmer length?)

These are the questions you probably have about Samberg’s off-duty lumberjack look—and the same ones we sent to Vicky Pena, head stylist at Boardroom Salon for Men (a series of barbershop clubs across the southern U.S.). Here’s Pena’s advice for how to get the beard and hairstyle Samberg rocks so well—and how to modify it for your own hair type.

Andy Samberg for Men's Journal March 2020 issue
Peter Yang for Men’s Journal

How to Get the Perfect Spring Cut à la Andy Samberg

The Kind of Hair This Style Requires

“This is a great look for someone who naturally has a medium-to-strong wave pattern in their hair [like Samberg],” says Pena. With this as the main requirement, the style is achievable for varying hair densities. Samberg and guys with thicker hair will have fewer hassles. Guys with thinner densities should use a thickening shampoo and conditioner to help build volume and body, says Pena. We love Sachajuan’s thickening wash and conditioner. “These have the ability to add fiber to the hair,” she adds. The result is lightweight fullness, especially when paired with a lightweight styler (like a texturizing hair cream targeted at wavy or curly hair—like Bumble and bumble’s. “And make sure to finish it off with a setting spray that’ll give you hold without the weight,” she says. We recommend Living Proof’s flexible-hold hairspray.

If you have straight hair, you can achieve a more textured look like this by using a sea salt spray or a clay pomade, Pena adds. Use Herbivore’s salt mist and BluuMan’s clay-cream styler.

As for guys with receding hair, it gets more difficult, Pena says. “Keep a little more length on the top, to allow for a slight camouflage. Then use a product with more flexibility and movement to allow the hair to wave naturally and help disguise the recession.” A texturizing hair paste could give you the definition and medium control you need for the style, without weighing things down. Try American Crew for this.

What to Tell Your Barber

Ask your barber or stylist for a taper on the sides, and no scalp exposure, says Pena. You can modify the length to your liking length, but be sure to leave the top longer. “This maintains the wave and achieves the fullness this look requires,” she says.

You can see on Samberg that the style doesn’t blend the top and sides cleanly; it’s more abrupt in contrast. You can do this, or ask for a more natural blend—whichever you prefer.

How to Style This Look

Depending on your hair density and texture, you may need to modify the products used. (Refer to the first section above.) But in general, this style should be kept light and “touchable,” so you’ll want to stick with texturizing pastes and creams, clay pomades, or sea salt sprays. (Again, see above for links to some of our favorite products for each step.) Apply them to towel-dried hair, then let them air dry—no hot tools needed, says Pena.

A dime-sized amount of product is enough to start; emulsify it in your palms, then apply evenly to your hair, targeting the roots first. Coach it into place with your fingers, as the style is really not tamed with a comb. If you do use a comb to style it, be sure to break up the tooth marks with your fingers when you’re finished. Finish with a zap of setting hair spray if you want to ensure that the style lasts all day. (And just because it’s “touchable” doesn’t mean you should be touching it all day; that will significantly compromise its ability to hold form.)

Andy Samberg for Men's Journal March 2020 issue
Peter Yang for Men’s Journal

How Often You Should Wash and Condition

In general, the rules of shampoo state that you should wash your hair 2-3 times a week. But with this style, guys with straight hair may want to lean more toward an every-other-day regimen. Condition more regularly, on the majority of in-between days, as well as following each shampoo—that’s the more imperative note here: Always follow a shampoo with a conditioner, but never combine them.

“If you have a natural wave, it’s safe to say you can use fewer products and go longer without having to shampoo and condition this look,” says Pena. “On the other hand, if your hair is straight and requires more product to achieve this look, you may need a more frequent shampoo and condition. This will rid your scalp of any buildup or residue.”

How to Get This Facial Hair

As for the beard-trimming guard to use for this scruffy style: “This is a #2 or #3 standard clipper guard, used all over,” says Pena. “Depending on the density of the facial hair and the individual growth rate, this look can be cleaned up and maintained every 2-3 weeks.” Just clean up the neck and cheek lines more frequently—twice a week should suffice.

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The Spring Girls (Unabridged) – Anna Todd

Anna Todd - The Spring Girls (Unabridged)  artwork

The Spring Girls (Unabridged)

Anna Todd

Genre: Romance

Price: $ 4.99

Publish Date: January 2, 2018

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Spring Fling – Stacey Joy Netzel

Stacey Joy Netzel - Spring Fling  artwork

Spring Fling

Romancing Wisconsin – 9)

Stacey Joy Netzel

Genre: Short Stories

Publish Date: July 15, 2015

Publisher: Stacey Joy Netzel

Seller: Stacey Joy Netzel


A week of no-strings fun is never that simple. Tessa Sullivan figures she can handle a no-strings-attached fling with the handsome stranger she meets at her sister’s Spring wedding. After all, she doesn’t believe in love. Or so she tells herself. Trevor Jackson’s painful past leaves him adamant he’ll never open his heart again. But a week of uncomplicated fun with the beautiful bridesmaid? Now that’s an arrangement he can work with.   All’s well that ends well—a mutually enjoyable relationship that will end as simply as it started—until someone breaks the rules and falls in love. Romancing Wisconsin Series: To everything there is a season… Love finds a way during the four seasons in the Romancing Wisconsin Series . Starting with the Christmas holiday/Winter, then moving on to Autumn, check out the first six books in this bestselling, heartwarming series set in small town Wisconsin. Meet the Rileys, the Walshes, and best of all, Butch…a.k.a.  Santa  Butch. The mischievous matchmaker makes a cameo in each story—adding a touch of magic to the lives of everyone he loves, and even those he's just met. “ The Romancing Wisconsin series is fantastic. While the stories are simple and easy to read, the characters are amazing and the plot makes you want to keep reading straight through to the end .” ~ Debbie, reader reviewer Romancing Wisconsin Series    Mistletoe Mischief    Mistletoe Magic    Mistletoe Match-Up    Mistletoe Rules – short bonus story    Autumn Wish    Autumn Bliss    Autumn Kiss    Autumn Glimmer – short bonus story    Spring Fling      Spring Serendipity      Spring Dreams      Spring Spark – short bonus story Summer Scandal      Summer Bride      Summer Secrets      Summer Wager – short-ish bonus story br>

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In the Spring – Martha Ramirez

Martha Ramirez - In the Spring  artwork

In the Spring

Martha Ramirez

Genre: Instrumental

Price: $ 9.90

Release Date: October 21, 2019

© ℗ 2019 Martha Ramirez

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Xuan Couture Spring 2020

Taking a picture is the easy way of capturing a collection, said Xuan-Thu Nguyen. So she commissioned six different artists to interpret looks from her collection, producing paintings, which served as a runway backdrop for many of her tropes, such as marabou jackets, ruffled gowns and puffball dress made of clusters of chiffon flowers. Models also sported face pieces created by French makeup artist and wigmaker Muriel Nisse.
WWD Critique: The designer stuck to last season’s guns and offered up what she felt like doing, but the collection didn’t push any envelopes.

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Francesco Scognamiglio Couture Spring 2020

A punk attitude met a romantic look in this collection, which the designer created with both celebrities and wealthy young socialites in mind. Beautiful embroideries and encrusted safety pins peppered the dresses, which spanned from languid long designs with draped constructions to mini frocks punctuated by crystals.
WWD Critique: A favorite of global stars, including Madonna, Nicki Minaj and Rita Ora, Scognamiglio demonstrated once again to know what women want from him: elegant clothes with a sexy, bit rebellious twist.

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Yuima Nakazoto Couture Spring 2020

You could imagine yourself on another planet at Yuima Nakazoto, where red sunlight streaming in through the windows and Art Deco columns of the Théâtre National de Chaillot were the backdrop for his exploration of new textile technologies.
Using mainly fibers made of artificial proteins developed by biomaterials producers Spiber, the Japanese designer sent out futuristic looks that took cues from the intergalactic worlds imagined by Osamu Tezuka, a prolific manga artist best known abroad for Fifties comic Astro Boy.
Much of his work is devoted to making clothes transformable by the wearer, through the use of proprietary snap closures, but his arsenal of techniques and vision of garment creation are so interconnected that it is impossible to speak of one without the other. To wit, Nakazoto used bio-smocking, a technique that allows him to digitally control the shrinkage rate of a fiber, to fit rectangular pieces of fabric “like a kimono shape but also Western tailoring, without needle and thread, or waste” to the body, he said backstage.
Through the technologies at play here, Nakazoto outlines a different but no less enticing future than the one offered by Iris van Herpen.

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Valentino Couture Spring 2020

Carl Jung. Dreams. Surrealism. The role of the subconscious. During a preview of his couture collection, Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli talked about all of the above, so that one might have anticipated an out-there, arty collection. Instead he went as haute as it gets, his lineup steeped in references from the midcentury when, for certain well-bred Swans, dressing was an art and haute, it’s most glorious medium.
Piccioli talked about wanting to channel his creative passions freely, and freedom is not a linear concept. While we tend to think of it as favoring iconoclasm, it can also operate in reverse, piquing interest in traditional codes and standards, as happened with Piccioli for spring. He believes steadfastly that couture is the stuff of dreams, but now felt the urge to pull back the curtain on a bit of the dream, to reveal something about the unseen workings of classic couture. “I wanted to give light to the human process behind the show, showing the construction in a very subtle way. I wanted to show a bit of the process, but not too much.” He did so by highlighting the inner structure of some looks via exposed corsetry, and with the help of a

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Alberta Ferretti Limited Edition Spring 2020

According to Alberta Ferretti, women want to feel comfortable when they also need to shine bright.
In order to respond to her customers’ needs, the designer played with uncomplicated and flattering silhouettes for her luxury demi-couture line, conceived for special occasions. The overall look was elegant and timeless.
Along with her signature romantic chiffon gowns, this season showing soft draping and delicate sparkling embroideries, she also presented a range of duchesse styles, including minidresses with exquisite tone-on-tone floral decors and tops matched with pants to create jewel-like intense color combinations.
While satin long frocks sensually revealed some exposed skin at the shoulders, allover embroidered tuxedos offered a mannish look for empowered women.

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EXCLUSIVE: J.Lo Stars in Versace Spring Campaign

MILAN — After closing the Versace spring 2020 runway show in a reimagined version of the iconic plunging jungle print dress she wore to the Grammy Awards in 2000, it’s no surprise that Jennifer Lopez posed for the brand’s new advertising campaign, which will be globally unveiled today.
J.Lo is the protagonist, along with Kendall Jenner, of a series of images shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott.
Immersed in a tech-driven environment, they were captured typing their names into the search bar as a metaphor of today’s concept of self-identity, which through the use of social media can be carved by choosing what to share with followers. In the pictures, both Lopez and Jenner don sculpted evening dresses, as well as jungle-printed separates.
“In terms of my career, the Jungle dress really marked a moment in time. To me, Versace represents empowerment and putting something beautiful out into the world,” Lopez said. “It’s a dream to collaborate with my friend Donatella [Versace] again on this gorgeous campaign and to create something new and fresh out of a piece of iconic fashion history.”

Versace spring 2020 advertising campaign 
Courtesy Photo

It’s no surprise the designer chose to celebrate the digital era in the new ads, given that J.Lo’s

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Alice + Olivia to Introduce Classics for Spring

Alice + Olivia will introduce a new range called Classics for spring 2020.
Alice + Olivia Classics is a collection of elevated workwear staples that transition from day to night. The lineup includes suiting, signature jumpsuits, tailored trousers, outerwear and slipdresses, all designed by Stacey Bendet. The collection’s neutral palette includes off white, taupe, light heather gray, rose tan and pinks.
Classics will  be available Thursday at Alice + Olivia’s department and special store accounts, its freestanding stores and web site.
“I have always set out to dress the modern woman — the young college graduate going for her first job interview to the female ceo. My goal is to dress her for her everyday life, night life and work world. It isn’t just about modernizing and redefining workwear for the office, it’s about creating pieces that fit into a working woman’s world,” said Bendet, chief executive officer and creative director.

Two looks from Alice + Olivia’s Classics collection for spring. 

Classics features 74 stockkeeping units. Retail prices range from $ 95 for a knitted cropped T to $ 1,895 for a leather wrap coat, and include jersey dresses at $ 330, cashmere cardigans at $ 395, and a shawl-collar blazers at $ 440. Classics will offer four seasonal collections

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Spring 2020 Trend: Big Mood

For spring, contemporary designers went for big and bold, offering up exaggerated sleeves and poufed silhouettes with a playful demeanor. 

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Bodysong RTW and Men’s Spring 2020

Name: Bodysong
Main message: This brand, by an anonymous designer, has won both the Tokyo Fashion Award and the Tokyo New Designer Fashion Grand Prize. For its second participation in Tokyo Fashion Week, it showed a series of oversize separates in contrasting textiles. Pants were pieced together from denim, chino cloth and reflective fabric. Removable sleeves were partially unzipped to hang off the body of jackets, pockets were exaggerated, and tipped cable sweater vests were so big that they could double as dresses.
But just when things started to feel a bit predictable, the designer mixed things up by playing with proportions. Some pants were nearly comically baggy, while others were straight-leg or tapered and ankle length. Vests were boxy and cropped, accented with large toggles. There were lots of allover logo prints, but a mix of contrasting textures from metallic jacquard denim to traditional shirting kept things interesting.
The result: It was a strong showing by an up-and-coming streetwear brand that has hit its stride with a consistent-yet-contrasting mix of unisex pieces.

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Balmung RTW and Men’s Spring 2020

Name: Balmung
Main message: This brand’s designer, who goes by the name Hachi, said he looked at things that had inspired him in the past in order to create his latest collection. This resulted in an offering with a vaguely futuristic look that nonetheless felt very now. He layered different fabrics to give depth and different tones of the same colors, such as an asymmetric skirt consisting of sheer black fabric over white shirting, over a more substantial black material. Pockets were extra large and always on the outside of high-waisted shorts, slim trousers, structured jackets and Windbreakers.
Some pieces were more basic: white shirts, ankle-length knit dresses in navy or gray, and simple jersey tank tops. But rather than feeling boring, they helped to keep focus on the more interesting items, without competing with them. Many looks included obi-like belts tied around the chest instead of the waist and printed with slogans such as “polyester is future” and “hometown.” The show closed with a crinkled, iridescent sweatshirt that was so oversize that it fell below the model’s knees, its sleeves bunched up around her arms.
The result: Hachi succeeded in turning out a collection that showed both creativity and commercial appeal. It

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Tatyana Parfionova RTW Spring 2020

Name: Tatyana Parfionova
Main message: According to show notes, Tatyana Parfionova is the first Russian brand to participate in Tokyo Fashion Week, which is an accomplishment in and of itself. But while her collection would surely appeal to her customers back home, it left something to be desired in front of a Japanese audience.
The designer chose to show only dresses — no separates. And while this was ostensibly done in order to challenge customers to come up with their own styling concepts, it ended up feeling repetitive. The theme for the season was “black dragonfly,” and Parfionova employed motifs of clouds, lily pads, flowers and foliage. She also mixed prints and textures, which wasn’t always successful. One look that missed the mark consisted of a tiered skirt of yellow tulle layered over yellow sequins, with a strange shopping bag-style netting over the bodice and black sleeves with metallic polka dots.
The result: The choice to focus on a single garment with very little variation in silhouette resulted in the collection falling flat, despite a riot of print and texture.

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Yoshikimono RTW Spring 2020

After a three-year hiatus, the kimono brand founded by Yoshiki Hayashi returned to Tokyo Fashion Week as the first show of the season. Predictably, it brought plenty of drama and a higher production value than is typical for the event. 
Known simply by his first name, Yoshiki gained fame as the cofounder, drummer, pianist and main songwriter for X Japan, an influential rock band. He also plays classical music as a solo artist, and has composed music for a variety of film and television projects. And while his career has been in music, he was also born into a family that managed a kimono shop. Yoshikimono is his first venture in the fashion industry, and through it he hopes to increase the popularity of kimono among young people, both in Japan and throughout the world. He admits it’s an uphill battle, but due to his level of celebrity at home and abroad — he has played sold-out shows at both Madison Square Garden and Carnegie Hall — it is possible that he’s one of the few people who could accomplish such a goal.
“The kimono industry has been suffering in terms of business, so I was wondering how could I stimulate the

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Landlord Men’s RTW Spring 2020

Name: Landlord
Main message: A native of Tottori prefecture in Japan, Ryohei Kawanishi has lived outside of his home country since he was 18, residing previously in London and now in New York. He said that although he has never actually lived in Tokyo, growing up in the Japanese countryside he was always inspired by the Nineties Tokyo street style that he would see in magazines. Since launching his brand in 2015, he has explored a different theme each season, but for spring he wanted to draw on all of his past influences. He took pieces from his archives and tasked New York-based artist Meguru Yamaguchi to paint directly onto the clothes.
“Through this one show, I wanted to show the context I have been working with for the past eight seasons,” Kawanishi said. “The mix of colors from Meguru Yamaguchi, the street casting. To me, Japan’s original fashion culture is the story of street culture, and that’s what I wanted to show.”
The result: Roomy hoodies, baggy shorts, structured jackets and bright orange or yellow trousers were splashed in perfectly positioned, colorful swaths of paint for a streetwear collection with an artistic edge.

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Kozaburo RTW and Men’s Spring 2020

Name: Kozaburo
Main message: Kozaburo Akasaka has lived overseas for many years, and was even a finalist for the 2017 LVMH Prize, the same year he started his brand. But Japan has always been a supportive market for him, and this was one reason he decided to return to his home country to stage his first show in Tokyo.
“I wanted to come back to Tokyo, where I came from, and show who I am now,” he said. “For me, this show is like a thank you and a chance for people in Japan to experience the whole world of Kozaburo.”
His collection had a retro, rock-‘n’-roll edge to it, but also elements from workwear and Asian influences. Raw denim bell-bottoms, high-waisted black trousers, a yellow satin bomber and loose-fitting coats were just a few pieces he sent down the runway. There were also several matching tracksuits, including a bright yellow set that was reminiscent of the one Uma Thurman wore in “Kill Bill.”
The result: This was a collection that was edgy yet soft; retro yet effortlessly cool; casual yet stylish. In short, it was streetwear for those with a sense of style and fit.

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Diet Butcher Slim Skin Men’s Spring 2020

Name: Diet Butcher Slim Skin
Main message: This curiously named brand has been around since the mid-Nineties, but took to Tokyo’s runways for the first time this season. Designer Hisashi Fukatami worked with artists Kosuke Kawamura and Guccimaze on prints for the collection.
“Having been an aspiring artist myself, my core curiosity lies in the coexistence of art and fashion,” Fukatami wrote in his show notes. “The relationship between art and fashion and culture and fashion being often on the table for discussion, I see those coexisting in a very amicable manner. I have created this collection with inspiration from works of those artists who always stimulate my curiosity.”
The two artists’ works were incorporated into tunics, A-line shirts, casual pants with protruding pockets, and scarves that were tied tightly at the models’ necks. Fukatami also showed silky, drapy suits in light gray or navy, and separates in traditionally feminine pastels and textiles.
The result: Fukatami’s interpretation of tailoring was soft and light, infused with artistic prints and mixed patterns for a modern men’s wear look that seamlessly mixed casual with elevated looks.

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Onitsuka Tiger RTW and Men’s Spring 2020

Japanese sports and streetwear brand Onitsuka Tiger staged its spring show in an indoor running stadium on an island in Tokyo Bay. The festivities began with a marching band, wheel acrobatics and dancers who flew through the air doing backflips and the like. And with the 2020 Summer Olympics being hosted by Tokyo, creative director Andrea Pompilio drew inspiration both from the city and from past editions of the Games.
“This season is a big homage to Tokyo because it’s going to be the Olympic Games of 2020,” Pompilio said. “The collection is going to be in the stores at that time, and that’s the reason why you see a lot of luggage. Because for me it’s like all the world is coming here and Tokyo has become a really big center of the world. For the Olympics but also because Tokyo at the moment is a really big center of creativity and a very inspiring city for so many people.”
The luggage Pompilio mentioned was made of slick vinyl in the Olympic colors and emblazoned with either retro or modern looking logos. Shapes ranged from cosmetic bags to Boston bags.
“Another big inspiration is about all historical and past Olympic Games from

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Mistergentleman Men’s Spring 2020

With several strong seasons under their belt and stores in Tokyo, Shanghai and Hong Kong, Takeshi Osumi and Yuichi Yoshii have become a fixture in the coveted Friday night slot during Tokyo Fashion Week. Their latest season was no exception, drawing a crowd that included local and international fashion insiders, among whom was Marcelo Burlon.
The designers began their show with a series of preppy white or checked short suits, with the jackets worn unbuttoned over bare chests for a look of disheveled cool. They also mixed different colors of checks — green, white and red — or printed them onto sheer fabrics.
Khaki or olive shorts, pullovers and onesies were reminiscent of Fifties Boy Scout uniforms, combined with elements from classic military styles. There were also a few traditional checked suits, but in relaxed silhouettes and with elements like sleeves that dangled from the models’ shoulders or pants with high-waist backs, secured in the front with a black strap.
Never ones to play it safe, Osumi and Yoshii also mixed in bold neon tops and shirts and jackets embellished with shiny gold beads or clear rhinestones. Tailored shirts with built-in fanny packs displayed the pair’s adeptness at combining seemingly at-odds pieces into brand

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Shohei RTW and Men’s Spring 2020

Name: Shohei
Main message: Austrian designer Lisa Pek made her Tokyo Fashion Week debut a year ago, and after a one-season break she was back with a collection that once again showed off both her technical skill and her knack for nailing a Western interpretation of a Japanese aesthetic. While many of Pek’s silhouettes were simple and classic — button-up shirts, a cross-front midiskirt, and relaxed-fitting suits for men — she mixed them up with unexpected details or asymmetric additions. There was a loose ruffle that ran across and trailed off of plain white or blue tie-dyed shirts; trousers with zippers that opened to create slits at the knees and thighs, and a sweatshirt dress with added “sleeves” that tied around the waist. 
The result: Pek’s brand showed potential as a contemporary label that produces easy-to-wear collections with a slight twist, but she may benefit from taking a few more risks in the future.

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Mitsuru Okazaki RTW and Men’s Spring 2020

Name: Mitsuru Okazaki
Main message: Inspired by Seventies rock ‘n’ roll style, Mitsuru Okazaki sent out a compact collection of slim suits and separates with an edge. Roughly half a dozen black unisex pantsuits were accented with bold white contrasts in the shape of circles, stars, arrows, guitars, or strips of cotton tape arranged in the style of a Napoleon jacket. Black tank tops and bell bottoms printed or embroidered with guitars took a literal interpretation of the theme, while bright pink satin shirts with basketweave detailing and pants with their seams on the outside made the look feel more modern.
The result: It was a tight collection with a clear theme that nonetheless had enough variety in just over 20 looks that it kept the audience’s attention.

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RABD Men’s Spring 2020

Name: RABD
Main message: A former design assistant for John Galliano, Kanya Miki founded his brand in 2017 and this season marked his second showing during Tokyo Fashion Week. He still made a common rookie mistake, sending out at least twice as many looks he should have if he wanted to avoid repetition and losing his audience’s attention.
Roomy silhouettes dominated Miki’s runway. Pants were extra long, pleated, and cinched at the waist, sometimes with long cords or chains that trailed behind as the models walked. Outerwear, too, was oversize, whether it took the form of faux leather bombers so long they nearly reached the knee or denim overcoats with bunched up sleeves. Even cropped suit jackets had shoulders so wide that they hung from the models’ frames.
The result: Despite the repetition and sheer volume of the collection, it showed a clear direction and was an interesting new take on the casual-meets-tailoring trend that has become common among streetwear brands.

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Gut’s Dynamite Cabarets RTW and Men’s Spring 2020

Name: Gut’s Dynamite Cabarets
Main message: After a nearly seven-year hiatus from Tokyo’s runways, the designers who go by the names Cabaret Aki and Jackal Kuzu were back for spring, this time with their new partner W Woods Showko. Their collection had a retro, rock ‘n’ roll-meets-hippie vibe to it, with floral caftans and printed maxi skirts shown alongside ruffled blouses, ripped jeggings, and leopard-print blazers. There was a riot of color and pattern, from multicolored zigzags to a black all-over logo print over a bright pink background. Long fringe-trimmed skirts, dresses and ponchos.
During a break from the traditional runway show, the designers sent out groups of street dancers, nontraditional models, and wrestlers wearing pieces from GCGX, the brand’s new sports line. Heavy on logos, there were sweatsuits, T-shirts, shorts and leggings in either black and white or a red, blue and yellow multicolored print.
The result: As the finale soundtrack — “Fight for Your Right” by the Beastie Boys — suggested, this was a high-energy show that certainly brought the fun. The clothes themselves were a bit more toned down than the brand’s previous fare, but will likely do well on a commercial level.

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Children of the Discordance Men’s Spring 2020

Name: Children of the Discordance
Main message: Hideaki Shikama runs what is possibly Japan’s coolest “sustainable” fashion brand, although he doesn’t promote it as such. He designs products that incorporate traditional skills of indigenous peoples in countries from Mexico to Kenya, and follows fair-trade practices in purchasing them. He also works with artist Naoto Yoshida, who remakes vintage fashions as new pieces.
Shikama’s spring offering was rich in color, texture and pattern. Velvety floral tracksuits, bandanna prints on Indian-inspired tunics and straight trousers, intricate embroidery on oversize denim jackets, and shirts fashioned from scarf prints were combined with more  pedestrian camouflage pants and workers’ overalls.
The result: An eclectic mix of multicultural influences and colorful prints came together with loose, casual silhouettes for streetwear with a refined polish.

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Hare RTW and Men’s Spring 2020

Name: Hare
Main message: One of the more commercial brands to show during Tokyo Fashion Week, Hare is designed by a team. For spring they turned out oversize versions of classic jackets and tops, often with exaggerated, wide sleeves, overly boxy shapes, or nearly comically large pockets. Paired with wide-legged pants, some looks bordered on shapeless, but others had asymmetric details that gave them a modern edge. The team incorporated Japanese imagery into their prints and motifs, from kabuki actors to bonsai trees, as well as traditional geometric patterns. Neutral tones of black, white, beige and brown were contrasted with pops of red, fuchsia and gold.
The result: There were some beautiful fabrics and interesting imagery, but many of the pieces themselves were either very basic or so oversized that they lost their shape, and certain details such as trailing ribbons of chiffon seemed to have no rhyme or reason and didn’t do anything to elevate the pieces.

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Cinoh RTW and Men’s Spring 2020

Name: Cinoh
Main message: Takayuki Chino said he was inspired by a French sense of style for spring, “including the chic way the French wear scarves, Basque shirts and nautical items such as striped boatnecks.” And while these things may sound cliché, the designer succeeded at reinventing them in his own way. He fashioned silky scarves in white, red and navy stripes into buttoned-up ponchos and pleated skirts, and lengthened tipped jackets into calf-length coats, pairing them with jumpsuits and relaxed, high-waisted trousers.
For men, Chino showed a relaxed style of tailoring, including jackets without lapels over long, untucked shirts and loose-fitting pants. He mixed widths of blue and white shirting stripes and added a casual touch with drawstring trousers and sporty bomber jackets.
The result: While many of the pieces were timeless and basic, Chino made them feel modern by giving them a relaxed edge and playing with slightly oversize proportions.

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Rainmaker RTW and Men’s Spring 2020

Name: Rainmaker
Main message: A rare Kyoto-based brand in Japan’s fashion scene, Rainmaker was chosen as one of the winners of this year’s Tokyo Fashion Award. For their second showing during Tokyo Fashion Week, Kohichi Watanabe and Ryutaro Kishi showed relaxed but refined silhouettes in soft, draping fabrics. Unstructured trenches and suit jackets were paired with easy trousers, and collarless shirts topped drawstring shorts. The palette was muted neutrals and pastels, with the exception of a deep purple silk embroidered allover in a floral pattern. Cardigans and shirts were often worn unbuttoned but crossed over in the front and tucked in, for an elegantly undone look.
The result: The offering was cohesive and well executed, with a modern versatility that would be right at home in any urban environment.

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Hyke RTW Spring 2020

Yukiko Ode and Hideaki Yoshihara’s brand has, for the past several seasons, been a consistent bright spot during Tokyo Fashion Week, and the latest season was no exception. After a series of collections focused on reinventing classic military pieces from around the world, the spring offering had a softer, more feminine feel to it, but was no less timeless.
Hyke is not a brand that capitalizes on sex appeal. There is very little skin shown with its clothes, even for spring. And yet they have a refined elegance that is undeniable. Ankle-length trenchcoats, maxidresses layered over fringed skirts, and pantsuits topped with pleated half skirts were turned out in neutral khaki, beige, navy and black, with a few pops of blue and pink candy colors thrown in to mix things up. The fabrics were stunning without exception, from smooth cotton and soft linen to functional tech materials.
Having collaborated with sports brands including The North Face in the past, this season saw a grouping of pieces made in conjunction with Adidas. Pleated, asymmetrical dresses, yoga-ready leggings, and abstract printed black-and-white pullovers were often paired with more tailored items, such as fringed long skirts or a basic black shirt.
Ode and Yoshihara also sent

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Spring 2020 Trend: Waist Not

One school of fashion says that most women want clothes with a waist. Another school prefers to let loose, literally. That school made multiple compelling arguments for spring, as designers ruminated on new ways to deliver unfettered volume, for day and evening. Alluring looks ranged from oversize T-shirts to elaborate layerings.

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Maje RTW Spring 2020

For spring, Judith Milgrom was thinking about those glamorous Miami poolside photos taken by Slim Aarons from the Sixties.
“I asked myself, what have these women become, who are these women who seemed to have nothing more to do than be there — women today are very active,” she said. They still want to wear color, even if they’re working so much they no longer have time to drink Champagne, she concluded. 
So she gave them color: Hot pink biker shorts. And added glamour, using taffeta for the first time, to make very feminine dresses in baby blue, pale yellow and bubblegum pink. Accessories were bright, and included faux crocodile leather purses that attach to a belt — in bright red and hot pink. New this season was a teeny-tiny lipstick case, to be worn on a chain; sneakers, on the other hand, were chunky. 
There were airy romantic pieces too, including a flower dress with spaghetti straps and an uneven hemline. A capsule collection featured prints from the photos, including a dress patterned with a photo of sunlight in the water of a pool. Outerwear included a puffy-sleeved denim jacket with laces running down the back.
It was a youthful and upbeat lineup,

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Lacoste RTW Spring 2020

“The players are ready. Position,” and with that, the second Lacoste collection by Louise Trotter hit the runway, corridors around Roland-Garros’ brand-new Simonne Mathieu court, an ultra-modern installation nestled in the greenery of the Serres d’Auteuil botanical gardens. But the venue, where the brand had surprisingly never shown despite historic links with the sporting complex, wasn’t the only opposing pair offered by the tennis-centric brand this season.
For this iteration, the incumbent designer explored what she called the brand’s “aristocratic yet quite street” identity. “I wanted to try and address the nostalgia people feel toward Lacoste, with a contemporary lens,” she said backstage. Sporty pieces were cut from butter-soft leathers or silks. On others, Trotter demonstrated her deft tailoring hand, cutting a double-breasted suit in soft pink. Shown in succession on a female and then male models, it reinforced the idea that very little, if any, of the lineup was gender-specific — not even floor-skimming polo shirts and skirts that nodded to the Japanese hakama in their pleating and proportions.
To ground her work in the here-and-now, she tweaked proportions on house signatures. Mercerised or heavier yarns were used to produce oversize piqué. Widened cuffs and ribbing details were given pride of

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Equipment RTW Spring 2020

Equipment continued to expand its offering for spring, with utilitarian and archival details and a watercolor palette coming together in a lineup inspired by Marrakech. There was an expanded range of dresses, some directly derived from the brand’s shirting heritage, others with more feminine wrap shapes and done in animal or floral prints.
Elevated basics presented more masculine lines, as on a cropped military shirtdress in beige or cilantro leather shorts and matching army sweater, which rubbed shoulders with more statement pieces, like a viscose twill jumpsuit in fuchsia and red.

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Louis Vuitton RTW Spring 2020

Closing Paris Fashion Week can be a double-edged sword. In theory, the Louis Vuitton show is the star-studded, spectacular apotheosis to a month of runway shows in four capitals. In practice, weary fashion editors are anxiously eyeing the clock to gauge if they will make their plane or train back home.
It didn’t help that the Vuitton show this season started an hour later than usual, just after the sun set on the plastic tent erected in the courtyard of the Louvre. The brand wanted to maximize the impact of the music video that played on a giant screen that stretched the entire width of the catwalk.
Looming over the audience was transgender singer Sophie Xeon, known simply as Sophie, performing an extended version of her 2017 track “It’s Okay to Cry.” Somewhat surreally, models emerged from a door set in the middle of the performer’s chest.
Nicolas Ghesquière has been flirting with gender fluidity for several seasons, having cast androgynous models including Krow Kian in his spring show a year ago, and subsequently tapped transgender actress Indya Moore to star in his pre-fall look book and act as Instagram “host” for Vuitton’s fall show.
And it was an undercurrent this season at the

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Maticevski RTW Spring 2020

For Australian designer Toni Maticevski, designing around a theme is no longer working out. “It’s really weird. I’ve stopped trying to figure it out,” he said ruefully during a showroom appointment. What he thought about instead: how good a spring morning feels — clear skies, bright light and the scent of dew-saturated earth.
He embodied the latter as touches of sheen or darker tones; the bright light in flattering pinky-beiges, and the breeze in fabrics meant to obscure without hiding the skin. Given his proclivity for architectural draping, the result could have easily felt too formal. Here, his sculptural approach was reined in by softer fabrics and felt more relatable, especially with new daywear options.
Among the standouts: A light gray striped dress looked blowsy, while soft tuffs dotting white gauze fabric evoked sun-dappled surfaces. A jersey T-shirt gave an editor-off-duty look to a pencil skirt. The soft hand of a silk blend made a top and matching trousers skew more relaxed but still smart.
The lighter materials of the collection made tailored pieces stand out. A double-breasted blazer felt at once familiar and fresh, while a check overcoat toed the line between sporty and statement thanks to its kimono-inspired proportions. “My idea of

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Martin Grant RTW Spring 2020

“It’s a little bit ‘workwear meets Bubblegum Barbie,’” said Martin Grant, by way of introducing his spring collection. That’s some statement, coming from a designer famous for dressing style icons like Cate Blanchett and Meghan Markle.
Grant was referring specifically to a blue belted shirtdress with safari pockets that he’d paired with pink heels, but there were plenty of other playful options in his spring collection: a sexy pink halterneck minidress; cross-back bra tops, and a navy linen zip-front, hourglass bustier dress.
They tipped his trademark masculine-feminine dynamic into flirtier territory. Even the suits had a softer edge this season, courtesy of a slightly Eighties-feeling curved, cropped pant shape. Grant emphasized the waist by belting everything from oversize shirts to a flowing one-shouldered pink taffeta evening gown.
He also used the taffeta for a puff-sleeved shirt, noting that the fabric was made by a French company that historically supplied haute couture houses. “It’s one of the first pinks that I used when I moved to Paris, and it’s called ‘Paris.’ I like also that I can go back to a house that I used 15 years ago and have that exact color,” he mused.
Bubblegum Barbie just got a couture makeover.

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Mary Katrantzou Spring 2020

Mary Katrtantzou set the bar high for her spring 2020 show — a little too high, some would say.
Just like she managed to make the impossible possible when it came to securing her dream show venue – the historic Temple of Poseidon in Athens – the Greek-born designer delivered a standout couture collection that was bursting with emotion, ideas and elevated construction techniques.
It was admirable that she was able to execute everything at such scale, on a tight budget and with a small team at her north London atelier. Her talent, conviction – and many a sleepless night – certainly paid off.
The collection consisted of 30 looks, each exploring a different couture technique and conceptualizing a philosophical idea birthed in Greece at the same time as the temple of Poseidon was built, in 440 B.C.
The first model – in a sequinned and fringed column gown with a quote from Socrates embroidered on it – made her way down the runway against the ancient ruins, sending a frisson through the crowd. The dim lighting and eerie music added to the electricity in the space.
What followed was an explosion of creativity, with Katrantzou paying homage to her country’s history – and writing a new

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Capucci RTW Spring 2020

For their second season at storied Rome house Capucci, Luisa Orsini and Antonine Peduzzi played with optical effects, using iridescent fabrics that change color in the light and working them into designs that can be worn in different ways to create volume.
Mikado silks were taken from Capucci’s archives, recycled into modernized cocktail separates in color-blocked brights. A cropped waistcoat in lilac silk was adorned with glow-in-the-dark beads, intended to evoke a rosary, and worn with high-waisted white pants.
A handmade black devoré gown and plissé silk dresses — orange or red, burgundy or green, depending on the light — in one-shouldered or bell-sleeved iterations nodded to the house’s couture heritage, a link the designers are keen to cultivate as they seek to modernize the label without neglecting its rich history.
Wide-brimmed “visiere” hats, adorned with beaded fringing or giant bows, added to the updated vintage feel of the collection.

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Honayda RTW Spring 2020

For her first presentation at Paris Fashion Week, Honayda Serafi drew inspiration from her childhood memories of seeing Bedouin women in the countryside in her native Saudi Arabia.
Their traditional outfits inspired the seashell-embroidered belt she layered over a silky white cape-sleeved top, and the geometric patterns on a hooded dress worn over matching pants. The layered silhouettes are a pragmatic choice for Bedouin women out in the elements, but Serafi gave them a seductive allure.
A black bustier jumpsuit was overlaid with a sheer tunic with graphic silver sequin embroideries, while dramatic floor-length capes added pizzazz to buttoned-up long-sleeve shirts and pants. The designer titled the collection “Evolution,” saying it was a vision of how women could evolve from one generation to the next.
Serafi has done her bit to challenge social attitudes in Saudi Arabia by introducing colored and embroidered abayas in previous collections. This time, she showed variations on the traditional caftan, such as a white column dress with a pleated half cape. “This for me is the new generation of caftans: dress caftans,” she explained.
The collection was heavy on the kind of red-carpet fare that has won over celebrities including Priyanka Chopra, Lupita Nyong’o and Lindsey Vonn. Standouts included

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Kirin Peggy Gou RTW Spring 2020

Peggy Gou doesn’t need to look far for inspiration: her Kirin line is basically condensed from the kind of things she likes to wear. For her sophomore collection, the South Korean-born techno DJ and producer whipped up outfits for everything from hitting the festival circuit to traveling between gigs.
Her signature look is matching tops and pants, ranging from color-blocked tracksuits and denim pairings, to satiny logo-printed pajamas. Among the patterns this season is a pixelated image of dancers — a nod to the Saatchi Gallery’s recent “Sweet Harmony: Rave Today” exhibition — and a motif of Korean traditional masks.
Gou said the idea came from the artwork for her track “Starry Night,” an illustration that shows her hiding behind a laughing mask. “Everything with social media now is about who has a better life, who’s happier, and my cover had the meaning that everything is not as it appears,” she said. “I’m not always a super happy person.”
The Berlin-based DJ has been working with her partners at New Guards Group, the Milan-based brand platform that was recently sold to Farfetch, to refine her assortment. Based on the feedback from her first season, she’s added more feminine shirts and snugger denim fits.
“I

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Aalto RTW Spring 2020

This wasn’t your typical, sparkling beach inspiration. Tuomas Merikoski was thinking more of danger, lust and excitement, he said — his summer feeling has something more of a road-trip vibe. To start with, there was a heavy dose of white — lightweight white cotton shirts, some with sailor blouse collars, and a trenchcoat with wide lapels. Merikoski had also rigged up sails in the showroom — he’s making handbags out of sails, and a stiff, crinkly prototype sat near the window, with round handles. Next to the bags were clogs — a collaboration with a traditional Finnish make called Talla, some with fat bows. But topping accessories was the stingray hat. Imagine a bucket hat with an extended brim, that split and grew stingray tails. It added flair but he meant it to be worn casually — like a real sailor bob that will look good even after it’s bleached by the sun. 
Then there was color — simple cotton T-shirts carried an extra sash of lightweight material with the house’s “bleeding dots” print, drape it in front, drape it in back, or toss it in the washing machine — the silky fabric was actually a recycled polyester. 
And now for the statement

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A.P.C. RTW Spring 2020

For its spring show, A.P.C. splashed out on an outdoor sound system, drawing guests into a Left Bank courtyard decorated with flag garlands, a beverage cart and tents displaying merchandise —  future products from three collaborations in the pipeline: JJJJound in November, Carhartt WIP in January and René Tadeo Holguin in March.
“I realise that the older I grow, the less subtle I want to be,” Jean Touitou told the crowd, waving a finger at the setup. DJ Prince, a teenager from the U.S. — found on Instagram — stood ready to spin Eighties tunes to spur the models down the runway.
The lineup was A.P.C. through and through — a sparse selection of prints with checks or flowers, stripes on occasion; more choice in the jeans department, offered at times with matching shirts or in the shape of a sleek boiler suit. Dresses, too, were sprinkled into the mix, trim, attractive and deceptively simple.
Sensible, all of it, with just the right register of chic to keep things from getting too ho-hum.
Moving with the times — the streets will soon be going all dressy — the bomber coat moved to preppy territory this season, tan with a collar, and flaps on the pockets; a

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Givenchy RTW Spring 2020

If there’s one thing that’s courted controversy on the runways in Paris, it’s denim, from the fraying denim shorts as base layer for the circa 2020 “le smoking” at YSL, to Seventies Landlubber throwback jeans at Celine, to ripped and shredded Nineties iterations at Givenchy, reworked from actual upcycled vintage pieces in a nod to sustainability, bravo Clare Waight Keller!
It’s not that designer denim is a new phenomenon, far from it. But somehow, in this era of class and climate warfare, it’s been a lightning rod.
But the beauty of denim is that it can be the uniform of the aristocrat and the protester. Designer denim costs more simply because it can, because customers are willing to pay for context and emotions and values. And at Givenchy, Keller has created the whole package, carving out a feminist fashion niche that is honest and questioning (dressing a duchess for her big day didn’t hurt, either).
Titled “NY Paris 1993,” Waight Keller’s latest collection was a look back at a particular moment in time in the Nineties when she started working in fashion at Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren and was traveling between New York and Paris. She was reminiscing about the contrast of

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Lutz Huelle RTW Spring 2020

Lest anyone worry that Lutz Huelle, the label, would languish as Huelle, the designer, gets swept up in his new mission at Delpozo, here came a message, striding down the runway: fear not.
A bit saucy and rather fashion-savvy — with an alternative Eighties vibe — the Lutz woman threw off her jeans last season and, swapping them for long skirts with a puff and shiny pencil trousers, declared it was time to dress properly. And enjoy it.
For spring, she carried on in this manner, slipping on an evening gown, in a flowy, black and metallic jacquard splashed with a generously proportioned floral pattern.
“In a way it’s kind of a French, flirty way of dressing — but it’s still what I like,” said Huelle.
He turned his focus on transparency, using an ultralight black mesh, often with polkadots, layering it over short, puffy sleeves, making them larger, or longer, and in one case, adding a chic touch to a light blue cotton shirtdress. Other times the layering felt a bit haphazard — those polka-dotted legs shooting out from under a thick trenchcoat were surprising in a slightly jarring sense —  likely his intention. 
Known for his obsession with bombers and jean jackets — which he

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Alexandre Vauthier RTW Spring 2020

For someone from the field of haute couture, Vauthier is surprisingly democratic, finding ways to literally get the look for less. “While we’re developing fabrics and embellishments for couture, we’re already considering how to spin them off into ready-to-wear, to get the same aspect,” he said during an appointment.
The fall couture’s subject, namely the imagery and crafts that made him go into design, worked overtime in this collection, giving the couturier ample opportunity to play with Parisian tropes. June’s silk faille became prints on silks and jerseys; dresses made of acres of silk mousseline were recast in charmeuse to create volumes and reduce yardage; silk linings get blended with cotton, and hand-crafted flowers created by feather specialists Maison Lemarié return as machine-made fabric blooms. “We ask our suppliers to develop a version with price targets that match rtw targets,” he explained.
So the gold-buttoned blazers loved by French First Lady Brigitte Macron felt familiar, as did brushstroke prints cut into dresses and blouses. His less obviously sexy but intensely handsome feminine suits were made available in more variations, while a statement trench returned as a breezy, lightweight staple. Footwear was available in a range of heel heights and treatments so vast

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Isabel Marant RTW Spring 2020

It felt like Isabel Marant wanted to stretch the summer just one more evening as guests waiting for her show in the Palais Royal gardens were treated to music and mojitos.
“I was listening to baile funk, contemporary electronic Brazilian music, and it gave me ideas of Brazil, of beaches. Colors, sexiness. Craft and architects that I love like Oscar Niemeyer and Roberto Burle Marx,” she said backstage. The season certainly read like a day in that setting, going from the pinks and oranges of a sunrise, to the sun-bleached and vivid hues of midday, right through to nighttime’s somber shades.
Warm weather certainly lends itself to the French designer’s particular brand of skin-baring yet always classy sexiness. There were plenty of things to call out in her lineup such as abbreviated denim cutoffs, mini dresses and short skirts galore but also crochet knits and flowy fabrics made to skim toned physiques. Marant men — who now have their first stand-alone boutique — will have their pick of flower print shirts, peasant blouses and matching denim.
Whatever far-flung destination flavors the season, Marant’s work can almost be viewed as a continuum that never strays far from her forte: the free-spirited bohemian French girl.

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Lemaire RTW Spring 2020

“A summer rain,” Christophe Lemaire said after a show that stayed thankfully dry in the open courtyard of the École Duperré, despite worrisome black clouds and a distribution of umbrellas.
“We liked this idea of having fabrics with a wet effect,” added partner Sarah-Linh Tran. “We wanted to work around quite defined silhouettes and wet blacks.” This translated into an opening group of dark silhouettes, the kind of elongated looks Lemaire is known for, cut from chintz, coated cottons in various weights and occasional details in glossy wooden pearls — similar to those on orthopedic seat covers used by Parisian taxi drivers.
The duo did away with any embellishment, hewing close to the body by taking cues from the sparse elegance of judo outfits. Those informed the curved legs and padded detailing, notably self-tie belts that cinched jackets and coats, continuing down around the ankle on sandals with puffy straps.
The monochromatic silhouettes looked dipped in single color baths, moving onto a palette of almost neutrals of off-white, blush pinks, caramels and chocolate with the odd sage green — all tones that flatter the skin. “We like clothes to be a kind of new nudity,” Tran said. “This is a kind of makeup

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Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2020

The new YSL female power suit is shorts. That according to creative director Anthony Vaccarello, who put the spotlight — literally — on what’s emerging as one of spring’s biggest trends, the shorts suit.
While it’s tough to imagine U.S. House Speaker Nancy Pelosi ditching her royal blue skirt suit for a shorts suit to announce formal impeachment hearings against President Donald Trump, you never know — things are heating up in Washington.
Meanwhile in Paris, the rain is proving to be quite the runway set piece, from the dystopian mist at Marine Serre, to the downpour at Saint Laurent that let up just in time for the spotlights to turn skyward, all 394 of them, for another one of Vaccarello’s light spectaculars to rival the Eiffel Tower’s twinkling behind it. (He really takes the whole City of Light thing seriously.)
On the runway, it all started with the legs. The spotlights’ skinny beams of light following models’ strides in knee-grazing boots made for the ultimate power moves. Opening looks were long, short and shorter shorts — HotPants short in some cases — in blue denim or black, worn with a ruffled navy blue shirt left unbuttoned to the navel; a banker’s gold

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Telfar RTW Spring 2020

There’s a new American in Paris.
New York designer Telfar Clemens kicked off Paris Fashion Week with a multimedia happening that was, appropriately enough, a musing on migration. Not one to do a straight runway show, he presented his coed collection at La Cigale concert hall with a film, a live sonic score by Afro-Parisian DJ Crystallmess, a musical performance by Lancey Foux, and the surprise reveal of a Converse collab (including uber-cool sneaker sandals for men and women) that should help catapult the brand to an even wider audience.
Projected behind models wearing the same outfits that were shown on-screen, the film “The World Isn’t Everything” was the work of Clemens’ buzzy group of creative collaborators, including “Slave Play” playwright Jeremy O. Harris, artists Petra Collins and Juliana Huxtable. Speaking to the idea of migration, borders and belonging, the work featured black men floating on rafts just out of reach of the New York skyline, and “Moonlight” actor Ashton Sanders being interrogated at an airport security checkpoint, among other scenes, all with characters wearing Telfar logo jewelry, T-shirts and bags.
On the runway, the collection set out to rewrite the narrative of American sportswear. Techniques of deconstruction, reconstruction and patchwork were used

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Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini RTW Spring 2020

Monte Carlo, late Seventies. Caroline and Stephanie Grimaldi are two beautiful, rich, sometimes scandalous princesses living their best life surfing the international jet set.
These two icons, very different in their style and attitude, were the muses who inspired Lorenzo Serafini’s spring collection. Their looks and their images — Caroline more feminine and polished, Stephanie more tomboy and audacious — were reflected in the duality that Serafini injected into the lineup.
Bold volumes stole the spotlight. Big shoulders gave an Eighties vibe to denim and striped bouclé jackets cinched at the waist with jeweled belts. In keeping with the glamorous vibe, denim was also used to create tweed ruffled corsets layered over white T-shirts, while prom-inspired dresses with puffy details came in florals, as well as solids, such as vibrant red.
The mood got more grown-up when Serafini played with tailoring, sending out a white tuxedo with a big jacket with boxy, strong shoulders and another more fluid style fully embroidered with iridescent sequins. The young and innocent attitude of frilled mini frocks contrasted with the more nocturnal, sharp look of black leather outfits, punctuated by crystals, which were inspired by a picture of Caroline shot by Helmut Newton.
The collection, which also unveiled

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Piazza Sempione RTW Spring 2020

Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi celebrated the joyful, lively spirit of summer with their latest collection, displayed at the brand’s showroom, with its frescoes on the ceiling,
Taking inspiration from Michelangelo Antonioni’s 1960 movie “The Adventure,” filmed on Sicily’s Aeolian Islands, the designers showed uncomplicated, flared cotton dresses and full skirts matched with shirts, all worked in pure white or splashed with abstract prints resembling watery ink stains.
A mannish vibe was felt in suits, with jackets replaced by belted vests and classic sartorial fabrics switched with lightweight shirting textiles.
Discreet elegance prevailed in tunics layered over coordinated culottes, as well as in black and white tops with graphic necklines and built-in belts.

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Versace RTW Spring 2020

Talk about a J.Lo jaw-drop.
The diva herself closed out the Versace show Friday night, reprising what may have been the first viral fashion moment in history with an IRL runway walk for the ages.
It was the second time in the spotlight for the jungle print gown, which became an instant icon when Jennifer Lopez wore it to the Grammy Awards in 2000. Not only was the plunge-front dress depth-defying (How did it stay on then — or now —on the age-defying actress?), it changed history, when news traveled from Hollywood red carpet to Internet superhighway.
“I’m kind of proud to have inspired Google,” said Donatella Versace with her trademark humility during a pre-show preview.
Google was still in its infancy, just two years old, when fans burned up cords and cables searching for “Jennifer Lopez’s green dress.” When their queries weren’t turning up what they really wanted — a picture! — the tech giant realized it needed a new visual search engine, and developed Google Image. “For the first time, fashion inspired technology,” said the designer, noting it was also a validating moment for her personally, when she realized the dress had stopped the world. (She took the design helm at Versace

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Bottega Veneta RTW Spring 2020

Few designer arrivals are instantly momentous. Bottega Veneta’s Daniel Lee is finding that out.
Lee’s appointment at Bottega came with high expectations buoyed by his Phoebe-centric résumé; he was a longtime assistant to Phoebe Philo, now on industry hiatus (because no one wants to think she’s exited fashion for good). Insider-celebrated, he was also green in the ways of fronting a major brand, and in connecting to women on the emotional level that made Philo more cult goddess that mere fashion star.
Would Lee command a slice of the Phoebe-loving population longing for courtship? After his second runway on Thursday, the answer remains a giant question mark. One point is very clear: Lee has a long way to go, both in clarifying his vision and refining his skills. After the show, Lee said this collection was about “solidifying icons…the things we’ve become known for.”
But what are the Bottega icons? There’s a very specific, very famous handbag treatment that Lee has translated to clothes and shoes. And he listed, “the pouch bag, the kind of ease, reality of dressing.” But are those identifiable codes? In fact, does Bottega really have a ready-to-wear iconography? If yes, what is it, and how does he advance

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Armani sees airy, light spring for Emporio line at Milan show

Giorgio Armani goes for a light breezy silhouette for his Emporio Armani line at Milan Fashion Week. Rough cut (no reporter narration)


Reuters Video: Entertainment

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Jil Sander RTW Spring 2020

Balance is a goal that most everyone aspires to reach in life. Probably one of the most difficult to attain, considering the chaotic lifestyle of today. But a fashion show, if considered as a representation of tiny fragments of life, gives us that peaceful feel that, for a handful of minutes, everything is in its own place and the balance is found. This happened on Wednesday night at Milan’s Brera Academy where Jil Sander unveiled a beautiful collection, which seemed to center on the concept of balance.
Creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier succeeded in finding harmony among contrasting forces, giving shape to a lineup, which felt personal, distinctive, inventive.
The minimal rigor of sartorial suits, injected with an almost severe, mannish attitude, was counterbalanced by the liquid fluidity of draped dresses with high-neck collars and long sleeves. The conceptual vibe of most intricate constructions and deconstructions, as well as the paper-like feel of textured, more rigid fabrics, were juxtaposed to the desirable, essential approachability of a pleated tunic top with a crisscross detail on the back layered over a matching skirt in a different white tone and the liquid fluidity of a black and blue silk V-neck frock.
Patchwork in a chic

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Wright Le Chapelain RTW Spring 2020

In a small alleyway not far from the newly opened Standard hotel near King’s Cross station, Wright Le Chapelain debuted its first on-calendar collection in a refreshing way. Models were doing community work, planting plants and cleaning garbage off the street, instead of standing still against the wall.
Imogen Wright and Vincent Le Chapelain, the duo behind of brand, said this was their way of participating in the circular economy. Showing in a public venue that engages with residents and commuters not only generates zero waste but gives back to society.
The collection worn by these “social workers” is all made in London in collaboration with local tailors and seamstresses. Their thoughtful play on men’s wardrobe classics included a men’s dress shirt reinterpreted as a bias-cut wrap dress, while a check jacket was deconstructed into a panel skirt. 
The two met while studying MA Fashion at Central Saint Martins, and decided to launch a brand together in 2017. It’s still early days, but as more young brands go back to tailoring and aim to dress members of the business world, Wright Le Chapelain might soon start a style evolution with the likes of Eftychia and Peter Do.

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Richard Quinn RTW Spring 2020

Lines snaked around the street outside East London’s York Hall, where the spring 2020 Richard Quinn show was set to take place, with guests waiting more than 40 minutes post the scheduled start time to be let in.
“It better be worth it” was the general consensus.
It most definitely was.
The feeling of fantasy and the grandiose were apparent from the moment you set foot in the old sport’s hall, transformed with a big crystal chandelier, blush pink carpet and arrays of flowers, next to which the Philharmonia orchestra was set up to play live.
Richard Quinn’s intention for this event was straight-forward: to put on a real show and encourage his guests to dream during these challenging times. There was no specific muse or philosophical thought process, just fashion for the sake of fashion, in its purest, most artistic form.
He telegraphed his message by dialing up the volume and the glamour, in an even bolder way than previous seasons. He super-sized the bow embellishments or the sleeves on his much-loved puff-sleeve minis; added extra layers of tulle under bold leopard print balloon dresses for an added dose of drama; mixed florals with feathers and piled up the crystals on the trims of

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Duro Olowu RTW Spring 2020

In the midst of back-to-back shows, London-based Duro Olowu offered a select few showgoers and friends of his brand, including artists, historians and curators, the opportunity to have a break and view a collection at a very different type of pace.
Taking over a Mayfair town house that resembled a giant cabinet of curiosities, Olowu sat in the living room alongside his guests talking through each garment, as two models took turns showcasing the looks in his spring 2020 collection.
Françoise Gilot — an artist, the former wife of Picasso and “the only one who managed to leave him” — was Olowu’s main point of reference, for the effortless way she carried herself.
He married references to Gilot’s elegant style with the energy of Eighties’ dance-hall music to create a more current look of his own that was luxurious and laid-back.
“I think that if I found myself in Kingston in the Eighties with Françoise Gilot, we’d have a great time,” said Olowu. “She’d make elaborate clothes seem practical and that’s what we tried to achieve here.”
He worked some of the colors and patterns of Gilot’s sketches, drawn during trips to Venice, India and Senegal — into patchwork coats that juxtaposed painterly and non-painterly

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Eftychia RTW Spring 2020

It’s only been a year-and-a-half since Greek designer Eftychia Karamolegkou launched her brand, yet she already has managed to impress well-known tastemakers. Phoebe Philo snatched multiple looks from the brand within days after the merchandise hit the store. Gaia Repossi also places personal orders with her. With her approval, Eftychia seems to be a new guiding star for the Philophile, the nickname for those who are loyal to Philo’s vision at Celine.
Karamolegkou said she pretty much got tailoring figured out by herself one project after another through her bachelor and master of arts courses at Central Saint Martins. Her collection for spring 2020 is her take on Leonardo da Vinci’s “The Last Supper.” Instead of 12 men and one woman, however, there were 12 women and one man at the presentation. “The guy is Judas,” said the designer.
As a businesswear brand, Eftychia offers fine tailoring pieces and outerwear as well as blouses and skirts for a woman in power at a reasonable price point compared to, say, The Row or Bottega Veneta. It’s refreshing to see a brand that actually makes well-designed and wearable clothing coming from London once in a while.

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16Arlington RTW Spring 2020

The British fashion industry might be pondering big issues this season, including the mammoth 870-million-pound potential cost of Brexit, but the 16Arlington design duo Marco Capaldo and Kikka Cavenati offered a much-needed antidote to the gloom with a presentation-cum-dance-party that began London Fashion Week on a high note.
Drawing on their Italian roots, Capaldo and Cavenati looked to one of their all-time favorite muses, pop singer Raffaella Carrà. Channeling her high-octane glamour, they transformed a dark, central London basement into a joyful scene that was reminiscent of Italy in the Sixties: Models sporting sharp bobs and playful head scarves danced their way through the show like no one was watching.
The clothes telegraphed the same message of pure fun, with beaded jumpsuits, feather gowns galore, as well as lamé suits and cocooned minidresses featuring a Sixties-inspired swirl print.
“It was a nice time to bring our heritage in. Raffaella Carrà is the Italian gift that just keeps on giving; she is this exuberant, insanely talented performer, singer, dancer and we just wanted to inject that in our clothes,” said Capaldo. “Her music is all about feel-good and that’s aligned with 16Arlington, we want to be that beam of light in these dark times.”
The

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A.L.C. RTW Spring 2020

“For me, the story is these beautiful acid pastels, a new modern femininity and reinventing favorite classics from safari to a shirtdress,” Andrea Lieberman said of her upbeat spring line rooted in reality.
Upon first glance, the collection appeared colorful and charming, easy and romantic, inclusive of wardrobe enhancers in clean and modern silhouettes. She built up puff sleeves and other sleeve treatments on sweet tops and dresses meant to empower. “There’s something about having some volume in the sleeve. It’s about redefining proportions,” she added. A leather ruched top and flirty skirt set was a great example of how she brought a modern edge to feminine shapes.
Leaning on a thread of playfulness, acidic pastel colors topped tailoring and essential knit tops, while the print of the season was a hand-painted abstract butterfly rendered in two colorways. She riffed on men’s wear stripes in offbeat ways, and injected ease into a safari dress and skirt with soft flounces. Knits, too, were lightweight and fun, and included a beautiful pink pointelle dress and cream crochet set. “For me it’s about taking fabrics that we love, and putting more textural detail onto it. We’re definitely looking for that versatile, effortless moment for our

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Marc Jacobs RTW Spring 2020

In his show notes and during a preview on Wednesday night, Marc Jacobs acknowledged the Sept. 11 anniversary. For anyone who worked in this industry 18 years ago in a show-related capacity, the two are inextricably linked. “Where were you when you heard the news?” The answer is at or en route to a show; working at a show; casting a show, doing something show. (I was traveling down Fifth Avenue to Bryant Park in a taxi and saw the Towers in flames in front of me.) Jacobs heard the news in a phone call from a reporter — myself. He’d slept in since the night before, he’d thrown a huge postshow party on Pier 54 with views of the Towers. In the moment, carefree reverie. In the aftermath — bacchanal before carnage — a stark reminder of how quickly life can change, and of how little control we have of our destinies.
Heavy material in the lead-up to a fashion show (or in a piece about a fashion show), but given the timing of Jacobs’ show and party 18 years ago, it would have been odd for him not to reminisce. He lost a friend in the attacks, David Rivers.

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Monse RTW Spring 2020

Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim went bucolic for spring.
Their inspiration — a farmer’s market — brought a lively sense of serenity into their lineup, which in keeping with the brand’s signature aesthetic played with deconstructions and twisted cuts.
Charming botanical patterns were splashed on the panels of jeans and chinos; printed on silk shirts, and mixed and matched with striped fabrics with a rustic feel for asymmetric dresses.
Perfectly combining a dose of edgy design with a sense of comfort and effortless coolness, the collection also featured gardener-apron-inspired skirts and cutout sweatshirts featuring prints developed in collaboration with Renee’s Garden, a supplier of heirloom and certified organic seeds, international hybrids and open-pollinated varieties.
Tailoring got a fresh makeover with applied utility pockets and intentionally unfinished elements, while jersey evening dresses looked equally chic and comfortable.
Injected with an intriguing sense of escapism, the Monse collection will bring the joy of the countryside to the hippest streets of the world next spring.

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Lela Rose RTW Spring 2020

“Do you like our ‘yellow brick rose?!’” Lela Rose excitedly giggled just before her spring show. The designer was referring to the runway of yellow rose petals, surrounded by white tablecloth-clad little round tables topped with various baked goods. “Café Lela,” as she called it, was set against the backdrop of New York’s cityscape and waterfront on Pier 64. 
The New York City skyline — or rather vintage postcards of the island — served as Rose’s jumping-off point for the collection. The show opened with literal takes — the cityscape printed on a pleated cotton cape-back dress or Central Park splashed across a belted cotton pale-pink number — and ended more abstract, with a layered pale pink over gold tulle gown that emulated the golden hour of sunset. 
Roses came big and small, embroidered or printed onto signature flirty cotton voile — the designer’s favorite fabric of the season — on dresses and sets with overcoats. A lightweight tiered dress with tricolored blooms and curled ruffles made for a strong look. Outside of florals, a navy and white crochet-knit dress with carwash hem felt fresh, while a blue point d’espirit blouson gown conveyed effortless romance and the “celebration of the city in

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Jason Wu Collection RTW Spring 2020

“It’s about beauty. I have never been edgy and cool. I don’t know how to do it. I want to do my best version of beauty,” said Jason Wu backstage at his spring show, held at Pier 17 in a postindustrial venue with large windows offering a spectacular view of the Brooklyn Bridge.
Is there anything wrong with wanting to create beautiful clothes? Not at all. Especially when a designer like Wu succeeds in interpreting what is classic, sophisticated and feminine with a fresh, lively touch. 
This season, Wu wanted to give a different twist to the idea of beauty he normally conveys with his clothes, which usually have a polished, “perfect” look. So he played with hand-washed fabrics, textures, sun-bleached effects, raw cut edges and intentionally unfinished details to give his elegant creations a lived-in, poetic and intriguing vibe.
The mood of slightly decadent romanticism was inspired by the images of fragile, dried flowers of Wu’s friend, photographer Maxime Poiblanc. 
His nocturnal-looking flowers were printed on a washed-silk pencil skirt worn with a coordinated bralette and a lightweight trenchcoat, as well as with an exquisitely draped dress punctuated by tiny crystal embroideries.
Leather was also treated to obtain an imperfect, wrinkled

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Adeam RTW Spring 2020

Hanako Maeda’s designs often have a personal connotation, and when conceptualizing her spring outing, she choose the place in Japan her parents are from — Yokohama — a seaside city and one of the first places in the country to open to the west, as inspiration. “It’s similar to Cape Cod in the U.S.,” she said of Yokohama. It’s a place where she spent a lot of time as a child, and judging from her collection, a place that clearly left an imprint on her.
Maeda is a conceptual designer who takes a theme and meditates on it, ushering in new silhouettes and ideas, all variations on her laser-focused ideas. For spring, she expanded on the idea of nautical through her signature East meets West lens.
Several times throughout the show, a piece was shown more than once — for example, a navy chunky knit with a white stripe on the sleeve and flap collar that had a detachable shoulder detail. Once it was shown with the sleeves buttoned up, and then later on in a sandy colorway with the sleeves unbuttoned, forming a new shape. The variations permutated the silhouette, giving her customer a convertibility, another theme she often riffs on.
Japanese

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Tomo Koizumi RTW Spring 2020

What gift can a creative mind give to the world? Answers may be many and very relative. In the case of Tomo Koizumi, his biggest gift to the world is his very unique, extravagant, flamboyant vision, which he brought to the stage for the second time at New York Fashion Week with a performance at the Marc Jacobs store on Madison Avenue.
“The gift from me to the world,” is how the Japanese designer explained the concept behind his presentation, which once again was supported by a stellar team, including Katie Grand, Pat McGrath, Guido Palau and Marc Jacobs, who offered the location. “I had a really big gift by having all these great people involved in my show last season and I wanted to give something back.”
In the basement of the store, a mysterious creature, a sort of glamorous gnome with cone hair and wonderful sparkling makeup, interpreted by transgender model Ariel Nicholson, captured the attention of guests with a dramatic silent play that touched on themes of transformation, love, death, happiness, humor, fatigue, obsession and fear. This catalogue of human emotions, expressed with gestures and poses, was enhanced by the seven giant frilled designs, including gowns, a short frock

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Street Style at New York Fashion Week Spring 2020

At New York Fashion Week, the street style can be just as intriguing as the looks on the runway.
Cooler September temperatures have made the street style set forgo their traditional summer wear for more layers, including printed suits and matching sets worn in both neutrals and colorful prints. The monochromatic look is also proving to be a favorite, with showgoers gravitating toward greens, purples and pinks.
Read More: What to Expect at New York Fashion Week Spring 2020

They Are Wearing: Fashion Week Street Style Spring 2020. 
Andrew Morales/WWD

Some have already begun tapping into Pantone’s spring 2020 color palette, with a few sporting the forecaster’s top ranking hue: Flame Scarlet.

They Are Wearing: Fashion Week Street Style Spring 2020. 
Andrew Morales/WWD

Others are putting more emphasis on their accessories, like one attendee who complemented her look with Christian Louboutin Measuring Tape Sandals and another who wore Gucci’s New York Yankees baseball cap.

They Are Wearing: Fashion Week Street Style Spring 2020. 
Andrew Morales/WWD

Click through the above gallery to see more New York Fashion Week spring 2020 street style photos, updated each day.  
Read more on NYFW here:
The Biggest Fall 2019 Fashion Street Style Trends 
Celebrities at New York Fashion Week
Vanity Fair’s Best Dressed List Party at NYFW
WATCH: How to

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Vfiles RTW Spring 2020

Once again fashion and music collided at the energetic Vfiles collective show, which took place on Thursday night at Brooklyn’s Barclays Center.
Performances by Rico Nasty, Erika Jayne and Brooke Candy, as well as YG, animated the event, which was organized in collaboration with London-based marketplace app Depop and which highlighted the talent of the four emerging designers selected from among an international group who submitted their applications this past summer.
The sculptures of artist Anna Uddenberg featuring women who either collapse on their suitcases or writhe out of them served as the starting point for Chinese designer Di Du, who recently graduated from the Royal College of Fine Arts Antwerp. A combination of dreamy, whimsical colors such as lilac and pink mixed with deconstructed lines and silhouettes sat at the core of her collection, which felt like the wardrobe of a space anime’s heroine. Standout pieces included teddy bear cowboy pants matched with an armor-like cutout top, a padded off-the-shoulder bodysuit with exaggerated sleeves, as well as a Seventies net mini frock featuring the halter neck made of a plastic bag handle.
Wesley Harriott’s designer Ricky Harriott, who is based in London, wanted to portray an empowered femininity with his well-executed lineup.

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Red Valentino RTW Spring 2020

Pierpaolo Piccioli captured the most immediate and lively spirit of a never-ending summer with his charming collection for the Red Valentino brand.
Delicacy and femininity joined a chic metropolitan appeal in the fresh eyelet pieces, spanning from miniskirts worn with cropped matching blouses to generously cut parkas paired with lace bottoms. Mainly worked in black and white, the chic cotton style also welcomed bright accents, including the vivid red of a pretty halter neck dress enriched by floral white embroideries.
An exotic note was introduced via the vibrant prints of tropical flowers and birds splashed on flowing frocks and pajama sets, while butterfly-shaped patchwork details added a cute touch to denim designs, such as a slipdress and a jumpsuit revealing an exposed back and ruffled embellishments at the shoulders.
The brand’s signature craftsmanship stood out on cotton crochet skirts and bikinis, exuding a free-spirited, boho-chic vibe.
Versatile at heart, the lineup offered plenty of options for the Red Valentino girls, who next summer will also have the chance to shine bright at pool parties thanks to the allover sequined frocks — their hyper-feminine appeal exalted by romantic bow ties.

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Willy Chavarria Men’s Spring 2020

Sex, love, glamour and immigration.
All these hot topics, mixed with masculine queer culture, set the tone for Willy Chavarria’s runway return to New York — and boy, was he missed.
Known for his Chicano heritage vibes, Chavarria’s former stint in the Nineties, the creation of “The Love Garage,” a club in San Fransisco that embraced rave culture and gritty house music, served as one of the key components of his take on what minimalism can mean.
In this case, the usually big, oversize silhouette that has defined Chavarria took a sophisticated turn that still managed to maintain a tough edge.

The first portion of the show showcased standouts such as a black washed satin robe with matching shorts, along with an array of flared and high-waisted denim numbers, often paired with souvenir jackets or matching oversize boxy shirts. Quilted leather handbags, an item typically associated with high luxury, adorned most of the models, along with black and gold chains used as necklaces, belts and handbags, which provided a refined touch.
Part two featured a collaboration with athletic brand K-Swiss: a Nineties California Chicano tennis prep collection — oversize pastels in blue and pink with a bit of neon that enhanced sweatshirts, baggy shorts and

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Beaufille RTW Spring 2020

Chloé and Parris Gordon drew on their recent, first visit to Japan for inspiration, and delivered a clean, modern lineup with a healthy amount of artistry. They used a bright orange, ultra-thin yet super-strong fabric to craft a series of romantic blouses and dresses — unfussy cuts with carefully dosed ruffled accents, or puffy sleeves. Also uplifting: a paper-thin waxed cotton made into a bright, orange rain dress. Who needs a traditional raincoat?
The pair likes to take their clients from day to evening. With this in mind, they crafted a transformable, button-up blouse with an extra flap to wrap around the neck like a handkerchief; similarly transformable, a tan suit jacket, with straps to cinch around the waist or leave open, with a different effect. Trained at a design school in Nova Scotia that teaches all stages of the garment-making process — down to weaving materials to make fabric — the designers seek to make sturdy, well-made pieces that exude effortless chic. In a nod to their artistic mother, who encouraged their creativity growing up — they recalled she would unfurl rolls of brown paper for them to decorate — they used one of her paintings as a pattern for

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Zoë Jordan RTW Spring 2020

Zoë Jordan worked a lively, Ibiza-flavored lineup of sporty knitwear apt for the festival circuit — or the beach. Keeping things easy, her signature cashmere tracksuits came in chic ivory tones or bright, tie-dyed numbers, reflecting her lifestyle change from the city in London to that Mediterranean outcrop where the jet-set crowd lets loose. Long, mesh tops with low, drawstring waists came in lizard green or melon yellow, new accents in a universe dominated by pinks and oranges; an Eighties-flavored layer to toss over a swimsuit. Slightly distressed touches and cutout holes added a touch of shabby chicness of the techno-festival sort, including the frayed bottom of a tie-died skirt and holes in the arms of a bright pink sweater that was dip-dyed — a new technique for the label. Also new, a crocheted dress, cut like an extra-long tank top, all stripes. The sportier looks were also striped, including halter tops and shorts, anchoring the profusion of papaya-pink.

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Isabel Marant Étoile RTW Spring 2020

For the spring collection of Isabel Marant’s Étoile line, the designer worked her trademark volumes into a fashionable lineup that melded seduction with comfort. Amped-up shoulders added heft — on a feminine, embroidered peasant blouse or gray acid washed jean jackets and vests. There were a lot of one-piece looks, including a vest-shorts combo in a faded tie-dye print, a long trouser jumpsuit in a western-inspired floral pattern and a dark boiler suit, cinched at the ankle, with ample volumes on the shoulders and arms. Fluidity came in the form of airy blouses and flower-printed dresses in silk chiffon while structured numbers included a double-breasted flannel suit and quilted jackets. In the footwear department, choices included ivory cowboy boots or studded white wide-leg heels.

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Jacquemus Spring 2020

The roving cruise and men’s shows this season have taken the fashion pack to destinations as far-flung as Marrakech, Malibu and Shanghai. And so it was that a day after the close of Paris Fashion Week Men’s, a clutch of editors found themselves sitting in a lavender field somewhere in the South of France.
Guests including Emily Ratajkowksi, Jeanne Damas and Bruna Marquezine gathered near the small town of Valensole in Provence to help Simon Porte Jacquemus celebrate the 10th anniversary of his label with his first joint women’s and men’s show.
An hour’s drive north of Aix-en-Provence, they arrived in rolling lavender fields where a pink felt ribbon of a runway unfurled as far as the eye could see, against the stunning backdrop of the Alpilles mountain chain.
“I wanted a place that looked like a postcard — almost too much like a postcard, even. It was important to me to turn that cliché into something artistic, with that pink line running through the middle like a contemporary art installation by Christo, or a painting by David Hockney,” the designer told WWD.
The invitation came in the form of a small bottle of SPF 50 sunscreen printed with the words “Le Coup de

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Celine Men’s Spring 2020

“I have nostalgia for things I probably have never known.” The slogan embroidered on one of the big straw totes on the Celine runway could well summarize Hedi Slimane’s design ethos, though he would probably dispute that.
Suffice it to say that his childhood heroes — David Bowie, Serge Gainsbourg and The Clash, to name a few — are largely to credit for his trademark androgynous, elongated silhouettes. And with the designer working a Seventies groove, those influences loomed large over his spring men’s collection.
The sentence in question was actually borrowed from a painting by David Kramer, one of five artists who collaborated with Slimane this season, alongside Zach Bruder, André Butzer, Darby Milbrath and Carlos Valencia. “My own worst enemy,” read another — though we’ll resist the temptation to analyze that.
Paired with a pinstripe jacket, denim shirt and flares, aviator shades and white shoes, the straw bag had a distinctly Gainsbourgian panache. Those high-waisted faded jeans were worn with everything from a shrunken leather bomber jacket to a seersucker tuxedo coat — picture the Rolling Stones recording “Exile on Main Street” in the south of France.
Items like dungarees, straw boater hats and a gold lamé jacket brought to mind another

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Myar Men’s Spring 2020

Myar is showing its colors for spring. Andrea Rosso’s army uniform upcycling label this season matched military-sourced camouflage with multi-hued patterns from deadstock Hawaiian shirts, calling the collection Re_­Aloha. “We love to mix together two worlds that don’t belong together in a very harmonic way,” he explained.
The combinations’ visual effects are striking and fun. Pieces of a Hawaiian shirt, cut into camouflage shapes, were superimposed onto some uniforms. A green military fatigue pocket popped up on a similarly hued shirt emblazoned with palm trees. Blue military trousers took on a playful quality with piping made of shirting material.
On a number of garments, silhouettes of palm trees had been hand-stamped. “Every time it comes out differently,” Rosso said.
As in past seasons, Myar clothing comes with pouches containing excess fabric from its making-of. But this time, each also has a QR code through which it’s possible for people to learn about the provenance of the items and how they’ve been customized.
In another first, Myar created a dress, made of two military shirts put together. “Our biggest clients actually are females,” explained Rosso. “We have a unisex approach to the collection, even though these items are 100 percent made for men.”
The brand’s collaboration with

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Spring Texas Bride – Katie Lane

Katie Lane - Spring Texas Bride  artwork

Spring Texas Bride

Katie Lane

Genre: Contemporary

Publish Date: April 12, 2018

Publisher: Katie Lane

Seller: Draft2Digital, LLC


Spring showers make love flower… When Spring Hadley breezes into Bliss, Texas, Waylon Kendall knows she’s trouble with a capital T. And trouble is the last thing he needs when he’s working hard to fill his daddy’s boots as the new sheriff. He doesn’t have time for frivolous fun with a sassy woman who can’t take no for an answer. But when Spring finagles her way into a position as his new assistant, Waylon realizes there’s much more to her than meets the eye. She brightens his mundane life with her sunny smile and kind heart, and he suddenly wants springtime each and every day. Spring Hadley isn’t trouble. She’s a free spirit who sometimes forgets important things—like locking up the clothing store she owns with her sisters. When her sisters get mad and call her an irresponsible ditz, she decides to go on a camping adventure to prove that she can make it just fine without her family. Unfortunately, her Jeep breaks down, and Spring ends up stranded in Bliss with no money. A temp job is what she needs, and she’s determined to get it—even if it means tangling with the new sheriff. A sheriff who is hotter than a jalapeno pepper with kisses just as spicy. But when her criminal father blows into town, trouble begins, accusations fly, and the truth comes out. Can a straight-laced lawman and a free-spirited woman make it to the church on time? Or will a secret tear through their spring romance like a Texas tornado?

iTunes Store: Top Free Books in Romance

Jil Sander Men’s Spring 2020

The heat of the desert and the cobbled streets of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern towns hung over this spare, elegant collection, which had a subtle, exotic flavor.
Lucie and Luke Meier’s shapes ranged from the boxy to the languid, with the color, pattern and texture doing most of the talking.
An elongated, marine blue shirtdress; a spare, branch-like design on the back of a long, sweeping coat, and the fringes or tassels on a sweater were among the standouts.
Luke said fluid tailoring remains the way forward for the brand, which has long been synonymous with pared-back shapes and fine details. Lucie added that the collection’s value lies in its subtlety, its “poetry and detail,” and its lightweight fabrics.
The couple have been turning their hands and minds to sustainability, too, working materials such as organic banana fiber into pieces such as the black-and-white trenchcoat that appeared in the show. Lucie said the fiber is a dream because it behaves like gazar, but it’s lighter and offers structure without the stiffness.
All of that fabric research meant that even the simplest of pieces sang — the boxy khaki workwear suits, the navy overcoats and those oversized, billowy white cotton shirts, fit for long strolls under

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N. Hoolywood Men’s Spring 2018

N. Hoolywood is growing up — that is, at least for one season. In an apparent 180-degree turn from fall’s homeless youth reference, where designer Daisuke Obana amped up a more-is-more style philosophy, the latest offering boasted a tone of quiet sophistication with a classic American undercurrent.
Obana, a Japanese native, was in the U.S. during last year’s contentious presidential election, which turned his mind to a journey through American history. He looked to John F. Kennedy, whose suave, debonair appearance has become a symbol of a happier, simpler America.
Preppy varsity references — from the bomber jackets and elongated cardigans to university lettering — were indicative of the Fifties.
Elsewhere, military references drew from JFK’s military career while a Marilyn Monroe print was a playful jab at his personal peccadillos. The overall tone was younger, balancing a collegiate spirit with clean, soft tailored silhouettes. “I wanted to put out something very simple, sleek, traditional and refined,” Obana said backstage.
Notable was the designer’s modern interpretation of traditional style. Loosening up classic suits with generous proportions was not only younger (and a big trend on the European runways), but gave way to greater layering potential and a notion of trans-seasonal dressing. Comfortable, professional, elevated —

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Todd Snyder Men’s Spring 2018

Todd Snyder offered a “melting pot of fashion” in his spring collection, drawing references from around the world — Morocco, France and his own Iowa backyard.
“It’s a mish-mash of different looks,” he said backstage before his show for New York Fashion Week: Men’s on Monday night. “Active, military, sartorial.” Even his father’s propensity to wear black socks with shorts — “which always annoyed me, but now I’m doing it, too” — made an appearance.
In a show that featured a musical performance from Lewis Del Mar, those eclectic references were visible in a suit fashioned after an old French burlap coffee-bean bag, Marrakech-inspired multistripes in linen bomber jackets and a Mexican Baja white and olive hoodie.
But the big news came from a radical change in the silhouette. From oversize pleated pants, shorts and Japanese selvage jeans to softly constructed boxy-cut double-breasted suits, “the pants are much baggier,” he said. “And there are pleats everywhere. The proportion has changed a lot.”
The designer also showcased his long-standing collaboration with Champion by “resurrecting a few classics,” such as a sweater with a diagonal color-blocked design and logo T-shirts worn under blazers and top coats.
In past seasons, Snyder has been playing it safe, but with

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Philippines Fashion Meets Tokyo RTW Spring 2016

This season marked the first time that designers from the Philippines presented their collections during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo. While each of the three brands’ offerings varied greatly, common themes were sustainable materials and inspiration from the natural world.
 
It’s rare for an accessory brand to be capable of standing alone in a runway show, but Ken Samudio’s pieces were bold enough to pull focus away from any clothes his models were wearing. The former marine biologist and college professor presented multidimensional statement necklaces, cuffs and clutches made from recycled plastic drink bottles to mimic coral reefs and creatures of the sea.
 
Also inspired by sea life, John Herrera’s collection focused on bioluminescence, the phenomenon that makes some underwater creatures glow in the dark. Black minidresses trimmed in bright orange and green ruffles shared the runway with several all-black pieces, such as a floor-length coat and a series of ponchos. Body-hugging dresses with supersheer panels left very little to the imagination, creating a sexiness that at times felt forced.
 
Renan Pacson showed black and white streetwear with Escher-inspired geometric prints. He used high-tech fabrics such as mesh, jersey and a metallic bronze bonded-plastic material to create lightweight sleeveless tops, hooded coats, pants and

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Natasha Zinko RTW Spring 2016

Saying she was “interested in the idea of power and vulnerability,” Natasha Zinko played a game of contrasts for spring 2016, pitting athletic references against the sensuality of beautiful lingerie.
 
The designer’s corset dresses had whipstitching on the sides, a short coat in the softest red leather resembled a kimono jacket with its obi belt, and a nude satin duster featured red “go-faster” inserts.

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Onitsuka Tiger x Andrea Pompilio RTW Spring 2016

Abstract photo prints, bold stripes and a botanical line drawing covered much of Andrea Pompilio’s collection for Japanese sportswear brand Onitsuka Tiger. While the only colors the designer used were red, white and black, he played with different textiles for an updated, athletic-meets-street look.
 
Pompilio sent out coats and jackets in a raw-edged, feltlike material, while T-shirts and cowl-neck minidresses were done in a high-tech jersey. He also used mesh, attaching it to the hems of tops or at the low necklines and backs of long, sexy jersey dresses with extreme slits up both legs.
 
Accessories were an important part of the offering, with most looks featuring a lanyard holding what looked like a luggage tag. Bags, from backpacks to duffels, were far cooler than your standard gym bag, while still looking very functional. In his finale, Pompilio showed branded surf boards and swimwear that mixed style and function — making it perfect for lounging on the beach as well as swimming laps.

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10 Winning Red Carpet Looks Straight Off the Spring 2016 Runways

giambattista valli

Awards season might be a few months away, but the demand for attention-grabbing red carpet dresses isn’t slowing down in the meantime. Thankfully, the Spring collections provided enough glamorous options to take Hollywood’s A-list through to the Golden Globes in January. As far as trends go, sheer dressing proved to be popular at Alexander McQueen, Carolina Herrera, and Dior, while Chanel, Erdem, and Giambattista Valli all showed modern updates on the floral dress. Riccardo Tisci’s lingerie-inspired collection for Givenchy—a look from which we’ve already spied on Cate Blanchett—is destined to carry many a starlet along the path to Oscar night.

The post 10 Winning Red Carpet Looks Straight Off the Spring 2016 Runways appeared first on Vogue.

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Spring Break Fuck Parties 5

These hot little minxes were getting ready for their Xmas party when the guys finally showed up. These dudes give these tight and tiny teens exactly what they want – dick in a box! The girls never saw it coming – but boy were they happy with their gifts! They sucked, stroked and fucked these holiday cocks with all the Yuletide spirit they could muster and in the end both of these slutty little elves got their mouths and faces covered in spunk! Happy Holidays from all of us!

These sexy babes were hacking away when they’re discovered by their biggest rivals! The guys were ready to fuck some shit up – but instead settled on fucking some pussy instead. There was a nerd orgy going on as two chicks were getting plowed on a table! The guys inserted their hard drives deep into some free slots and made sure the girls never tried hacking again. In the end, their faces were soaked with spunk and these chicks were more than happy to lick it up!

One of our overseas studs met up with these 3 Euro teens in the Czech Republic. Who knew that these Prague girls came stacked with such big asses? While driving they spotted a guy and got him in the van. Right away, Alexis ripped his pants off and went to town on his lovestick with her pigtailed homegirl! This lucky hitchhiker fucked Alexis’ pussy while her friend came in and took over with her mouth until he finally came all over Alexis’ face and her friend’s mouth!

Cassidy and her friends were busy making a special treat for some special dudes on Valentine’s day. They soon discovered they had the same Valentine! As payback, they blindfold him and had him taste test their muffins and cake! They each suck his cock, before Cassidy jumped on the counter looking to get fucked by that fat cock! Her homegirl got in on the action too! In the end, Cassidy and her friends made sure to get all the frosting out of his tube!

Watch the Full Length, High Quality Movie!

These hot little minxes were getting ready for their Xmas party when the guys finally showed up. These dudes give these tight and tiny teens exactly what they want – dick in a box!

Stars: Nezvera Spice Taylor Reed Naomi Heart Moriah Tyler Tayna (ll) Sydney Cole Elena Gilbert Alexis Crystal Ryan McLane Mandy Muse Cassidy Klein Paisley Parker Juan Largo

Categories: High Definition Reality Based Gonzo Orgies Amateur

Scene Number: 2

Orientation: Straight

Studio Name: Team Skeet

Amateur Pay Per View

Spring Break Fuck Parties 5

These hot little minxes were getting ready for their Xmas party when the guys finally showed up. These dudes give these tight and tiny teens exactly what they want – dick in a box! The girls never saw it coming – but boy were they happy with their gifts! They sucked, stroked and fucked these holiday cocks with all the Yuletide spirit they could muster and in the end both of these slutty little elves got their mouths and faces covered in spunk! Happy Holidays from all of us!

These sexy babes were hacking away when they’re discovered by their biggest rivals! The guys were ready to fuck some shit up – but instead settled on fucking some pussy instead. There was a nerd orgy going on as two chicks were getting plowed on a table! The guys inserted their hard drives deep into some free slots and made sure the girls never tried hacking again. In the end, their faces were soaked with spunk and these chicks were more than happy to lick it up!

One of our overseas studs met up with these 3 Euro teens in the Czech Republic. Who knew that these Prague girls came stacked with such big asses? While driving they spotted a guy and got him in the van. Right away, Alexis ripped his pants off and went to town on his lovestick with her pigtailed homegirl! This lucky hitchhiker fucked Alexis’ pussy while her friend came in and took over with her mouth until he finally came all over Alexis’ face and her friend’s mouth!

Cassidy and her friends were busy making a special treat for some special dudes on Valentine’s day. They soon discovered they had the same Valentine! As payback, they blindfold him and had him taste test their muffins and cake! They each suck his cock, before Cassidy jumped on the counter looking to get fucked by that fat cock! Her homegirl got in on the action too! In the end, Cassidy and her friends made sure to get all the frosting out of his tube!

Watch the Full Length, High Quality Movie!

These hot little minxes were getting ready for their Xmas party when the guys finally showed up. These dudes give these tight and tiny teens exactly what they want – dick in a box!

Stars: Nezvera Spice Taylor Reed Naomi Heart Moriah Tyler Tayna (ll) Sydney Cole Elena Gilbert Alexis Crystal Ryan McLane Mandy Muse Cassidy Klein Paisley Parker Juan Largo

Categories: High Definition Reality Based Gonzo Orgies Amateur

Scene Number: 2

Orientation: Straight

Studio Name: Team Skeet

Amateur Pay Per View

Spring for the Holidays

SPRING FOR THE HOLIDAYS: Mobile marketplace Spring is ringing in the holiday season early this year. Today, “Unwrap Spring” will roll out with a gift tab with themes like “Home for the Holidays,” “Gifts Under $ [a certain price point]” and “Treat Yo’Self.”
The app will also unveil a slew of pop-up shops for its second holiday season, ranging from “Gadgets + Gizmos” to “Spring Bundles,” which contain Spring staffs’ favorite things. Custom wrapping paper prints will live all over the app, and be available for purchase.
“When we thought about what the holiday season meant and talked to our customers, it kept coming back to unwrapping gifts and discovering new things that are out of the ordinary,” said Alan Tisch, cofounder and chief executive officer of Spring. In addition to working with Olivia Wilde and Eva Chen on publishing their gift picks, Tisch was adamant about including a wide variety of items, from food and phone accessories retailing for around $ 10 to a $ 14 million diamond.

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Fashion Hong Kong RTW Spring 2016

Sponsored by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council, this group show brought together the collections of five brands in a bid to boost their exposure in Japan.
 
Highlights included Polly Ho’s label Loom Loop, which went on a playful romp with colorful tunics and bird-print leggings accessorized with paper crowns; Lulu Cheung, who showed chic, ladylike looks such as a sleeveless yellow top made from fluttering fabric petals and slim cigarette pants; and Kathy Lam Studio, which offered pretty dresses, including a pleated floral number.
 
Chailie Ho presented frothy and somewhat dated-looking chiffon eveningwear as well as a sequence of items — including a body-hugging dress for her and pants for him — in a Lisa Frank-style unicorn print. On the zanier side, Koyo designer Koyo William applied abstract swirl prints onto a men’s jumpsuit and a sheer dress, with kooky makeshift moon boots rounding out his styling.

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Paris on the Move: The Spring 2016 Collections

The spring collections in Paris wound down with designers transporting us to places both familiar and exotic — from Karl Lagerfeld’s chic ode to air travel at Chanel to Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli’s exquisite Africa-inspired realm at Valentino.

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Mint Designs RTW Spring 2016

Gardens are hardly an original source of inspiration, but Nao Yagi and Hokuto Katsui managed to make the concept feel fresh and whimsical for spring. The show opened with a series of casual dresses and separates in a cartoonlike floral pattern. This print was first shown in black and white, and then in a silver version that lent a modern, almost Space Age feel to the clothes.
 
Silhouettes were slightly less flowy and oversize than some of Mint Designs’ previous collections, yet were still easy and unrestrictive. Dresses and skirts featured sheer pleated panels attached at the waist, and asymmetric details became more prominent with movement.
 
But the textiles were what really stood out in this show. A silver checked jacquard with brightly colored, outsize tulips woven into it was particularly eye-catching, whether it was used all over in a modern shift dress or peeking out from between pleats or under half-undone zippers. Another thick jacquard looked soft and wearable in boxy short-sleeve tops, an A-line skirt with diagonal zippers and even a little girl’s coat.

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Paris Spring 2016 Trend: Lingerie-Inspired Looks

Sleep no more? Chiffon, satin and lace — along with lots of skin — were all over the Paris runways as lingerie-inspired slipdresses, baby-doll minidresses, sheer nightshirts, rompers and lacy T-shirts with built-in molded bra cups went from in the bedroom to on-trend.

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Tokyo Designer Inspirations Spring 2016

Architects, Africa, artisans and emotions all provided a spark for the creators of some of Japan’s leading fashion brands as Tokyo Fashion Week for spring 2016 gets underway.

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‘Spring Awakening’: Theater Review


The 2007 Tony winner for best musical returns to Broadway in this hit production from Los Angeles’ Deaf West Theatre, using ASL to heighten adolescent unease.

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Hollywood Reporter – Theater Reviews Feed

Spring 2016 Makeup Trend to Try Now: Eyelash Art

It's almost impossible to imagine now, but not even a decade ago, the idea of wearing designs on your nails instead of solid-color polish was considered adventurous. Like, you wouldn't dream of wearing striped nails…


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John Galliano RTW Spring 2016

The John Galliano label’s recent transition to a premium contemporary line appears to have been a smart move. Aiming for a younger, street-savvier consumer, Bill Gaytten channeled the energy of London to delightful effect for spring, showing khaki mesh parkas next to cute ruffled skirts, for instance. He also played with transparencies on skinny lace dresses, which he layered over same-fabric bustiers and polka-dot pantyhose.
 
The lingerie feeling continued on girly tutu numbers — minus the tulle — which kept the looks surprisingly sporty, even though most of this spirited lineup leaned toward party rather than work. Usually a fan of gimmicks-meet-glamour, Gaytten stayed clear of costly embellishments, restraining himself to tasteful bead embroideries and a series of feathered Bobby helmets conceived by Stephen Jones for the show, which furthered the English theme. As The Beatles’ “Twist and Shout” played though the loudspeakers, the dynamic show marked a promising new beginning for the beleaguered brand.

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Roland Mouret RTW Spring 2016

Roland Mouret marked the 10th anniversary of his signature Galaxy dress with a limited-edition capsule collection of seven pieces inspired by the tailored hourglass silhouette, including a jacket and a jumpsuit with the same angular neckline. The capsule went on sale online after the designer’s spring show in Paris, which ended with models wearing Galaxy dresses in nine colors, including navy, mustard, coral pink and mint green. The collection will also be available through select retailers, including Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Printemps, Selfridges and Tsum.
 
Mouret has previously said he doesn’t want to be defined by the Galaxy, which has been worn by celebrities such as Scarlett Johansson and Cameron Diaz. But he is also mindful of commercial considerations. “It’s the dress that allowed me to enter the fashion bible, and for that alone, I have to be respectful of that dress and respectful of the woman who wears it,” he said backstage.
 
The anniversary had him thinking back to when he was 10 years old and first became aware of fashion through a French TV program called “Aujourd’hui Madame.” Those memories inspired precisely tailored outfits in Seventies-tinged floral or leaf motifs, many featuring folded or cutout necklines. He also worked graphic contrasts, such

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Akris RTW Spring 2016

There’s always a risk when fashion designers take inspiration from architecture, particularly of stiffness or awkward volumes.
 
This season, Akris designer Albert Kriemler went gaga for acclaimed Japanese practitioner Sou Fujimoto, perhaps best known by the fashion crowd for designing the cloudlike Serpentine Gallery pavilion in London in 2013, and a shopping center in the Miami Design District, all vivid blue glass.
 
The pleasant surprise was that this was one of Kriemler’s breeziest collections in years, as he transposed Fujimoto’s grid patterns and transparency onto sleek fit-and-flare dresses, snazzy shirt-and-shorts combos and spare tailoring.
 
The show opened with the perforated roof of the future House of Hungarian Music in Budapest echoed on white cotton shirts and Bermuda shorts, with some in the audience murmuring about a resemblance, given the brand’s roots in St. Gallen, Switzerland, to Swiss cheese. In fact, the cutouts looked equally scrumptious on sleek jersey dresses and A-line mesh skirts — longer hemlines gaining importance this European season.
 
The show progressed in segments, drawing on details from specific Fujimoto projects. A sheath dress and coat in rows of cork with a few squares of transparency too closely resembled a wooden house in the forest. But between the languid silk crepe pantsuits,

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Alexander McQueen RTW Spring 2016

Maidens, fair ladies, goddesses, princesses — Sarah Burton had the cast of fairytale heroines, fragile and strong, covered in her stunning spring collection. It was the stuff of girlhood fantasies, except even the wildest dreams rarely imagine clothes so beautiful.
 
The collection was based on a reality from the distant past: the Huguenots, the persecuted French Protestant sect that fled France in the late 17th century and settled in Spitalfields in London. Many were trained silk weavers who brought their craft with them, eventually building Spitalfields into a stronghold of the silk industry. Burton paid homage to their artisan prowess, quite possibly outdoing it with couture-level shredded silk faille floral jacquard; silk taffeta with naturalistic floral fil coupe jacquards; embroidered leather, and French lace worked into tulle with patterns of doves and trellises of flowers woven in. Flowers were essential effects. Apparently, the Huguenots arrived in London with little more than bulbs and seeds in their pockets, planting them to grow inner city gardens.
 
Burton garment-washed many of the pieces to give them a tactile softness and angelic sense of decay underscored by the predominantly pale palette of white, blush and pastel petal tones. “I wanted everything to feel very, very feminine.

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Global traveller inspires Kenzo for next spring

Kenzo’s Spring/Summer collection in Paris sees models drift on moving blocks wearing over the knee ‘massage shoes’ and multi-shaped belt bags. Rough cut (no reporter narration).


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Drew Barrymore’s ’90s Fashion Trend of Choice, the Nightgown Dress, Is Back for Spring

With the resurgence of so many '90s fashion trends in the past couple of years (chokers, Doc Martens, and lots 'o flannel, to name a few), it was only a matter of time until we…


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Nina Ricci RTW Spring 2016

Guillaume Henry thinks about Nina Ricci the brand as a woman. “Of course Nina Ricci is a woman’s name and I always try to ask, ‘who is that woman?’, the designer said backstage before the show, noting that he wanted the spring collection to build on the classics tinged with melancholy he introduced with his debut fall show. “I wanted her to be a little more sensual, like the second time you meet someone.”
 
The collection gave the impression that Henry is still getting acquainted with this woman he has in mind, as well as the turf that comes with helming a luxury label. The tony, bourgeois traditionalism of the silhouettes implied an adult chicness more seductive than last season as Henry infused the lineup with sheer, blouses, spare apron dresses and an abundance of shine via patent leather and lacquered fabrics. Two of his key references were Romy Schneider in the Seventies and Nineties minimalism.
 
The plainer, the better. Squarely tailored coats and miniskirts in shiny patent ostrich leather and two wrap leather dresses, one olive, one red, with wide open V necklines and gathered waists were strong examples of alluring, womanly polish. Henry’s attempts at elevating the minimal and traditional,

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Alessandra Rich RTW Spring 2016

Alessandra Rich is up to something clever in eveningwear. The very word conjures a bygone era of formality and stuffy cocktail parties with passed hors d’oeuvres, but Rich’s approach brings back the fun and exuberance of nouveau riche while making it look new.
 
She named her spring collection “Dolores,” concocting a story about a young girl who runs away to marry a guy she just met. “I imagine her to be from Honduras, or I don’t know, South America, and she has these cheap plastic flowers in her hair and her trenchcoat on,” said Rich. “She’s ready.”
 
The trench came in black, white and fuschia silk Moiré — your grandmother’s favorite fancy fabric —  which Rich breathed life and wit into, using it on the sleeves of an embroidered denim jacket and an improbably chic jumpsuit suit. “It looks like someone working at a petrol station,” she said.
 
Putting a playfully stylish spin on stuff that has major tacky potential is Rich’s knack. Her signature dress silhouette — tight, tea-length with a godet skirt — came off the shoulder with a V-neck trimmed in a big ruffle, and off the shoulder with big pouf sleeves. It was treated in lace, paillettes, taffeta and even denim. There was a great denim coatdress

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Baby Bjorn Chic: Models Actually Wore Other Models in Rick Owens’ Spring 2016 Show

We're all about women's empowerment here at Glamour, but we've never seen it expressed quite like designer Rick Owens did on his Paris runway on Thursday. The California-born, Paris-based designer known as the Lord of…


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Theater: Glorious “Spring,” Sugar “Daddy,” Stingy Stein

SPRING AWAKENING (2015) ***1/2 out of ****
DADDY LONG LEGS ** out of ****
REREAD ANOTHER ** out of ****

SPRING AWAKENING (2015) ***1/2 out of ****
BROOKS ATKINSON THEATRE

When Deaf Theatre West came to Broadway in 2003 with its acclaimed revival of Big River, I was bummed not to get a chance to see it. Like many, I was intrigued. A deaf theater company. Doing a musical? What did that even mean, I and perhaps the clueless like me in the hearing community wondered. It sounded fascinating, to say the least. An interesting experiment. I was sorry to miss it.

Now having seen their revival of Spring Awakening on Broadway, I know exactly what I missed back in 2003: great theater. Like an all-male As You Like It or an all-female Julius Caesar, like an all-Asian Death Of A Salesman or any other such approach to the canon, these unified takes on casting or performing can offer insights both large and small, inspire staging and reveal meaning quite unexpected and refreshing. Done as a stunt, none of these approaches mean a thing. Done with purpose and artistry and a desire to find connections and inspire performances, they are revitalizing.

That’s the case here, with the doubling up of key characters underlining their isolation and inability to communicate, with signing becoming as intimate and moving as a whisper, with silence the most powerful moment in a musical filled with great numbers.

Spring Awakening left Broadway just six years ago. And its original cast — Jonathan Groff, John Gallagher Jr. and Lea Michele — left huge shoes to fill. But it’s a delight to see the story has lost none of its impact, the score and songs none of their dusky, moody impact.

Teenagers in the late 1800s of Germany feel unduly repressed. Like teenagers everywhere, they question everything and want to know everything…now! Melchior (a handsome Austin P. McKenzie) is a budding thinker who refuses to attend church and tries to console his sex-obsessed friend Moritz (a convincingly troubled Daniel N. Durant) with the facts of life. Wendla (a fresh-faced and appealing Sandra Mae Frank) simply wants to know where babies come from, something her mother (Camryn Manheim) is incapable of explaining. Hanschen (Andy Mientus, so good in the original cast of the new Les Miz) just wants to sleep with anything that moves. The school they attend –mirroring the times — insists all deaf students learn to speak instead of sign and punishes those who won’t or simply don’t gain fluency as failures. Hearing a teacher mock a student’s attempts to verbalize Latin is haunting. Their parents are dour and disapproving and demanding, when not downright abusive. It won’t end well.

Spring Awakening is a signal moment in musical theater. This is the show that made rock n roll truly belong on Broadway — not as a jukebox musical or as nostalgia or for specific shows drawn from rock albums but as a specific voice and style that earned a permanent place on the stage alongside country and folk and blues and Tin Pan Alley. It’s never left since. Spring Awakening returns just as the show’s creatives return: Steven Sater has School Of Rock later this year and Duncan Sheik has American Psycho in the spring. It should give them courage to see how vibrant and moving their breakthrough remains.

Director Michael Arden honors the original while putting his own touches on it in ways large and small, from the intertwined bodies of students that form a tree to the coup de théâtre at the end which makes use of the show’s gunmetal grey look throughout for a final breathtaking glimpse of a brighter future during the closer “”The Song Of Purple Summer.” He proves himself a director of the first order. The work of choreographer Spencer Liff and the rest of the technical team is similarly inspired.

The signing throughout is just lovely and poetic, often spreading from the person speaking to the cast as a whole, becoming as important visually as the movement or the set or the lighting.

The cast as a whole is sexy and talented, from the moment they come onstage in their underwear to dress in front of us before the beginning right to the finale where they strip back down again, emphasizing the innocent beauty of youth that has nothing to be ashamed of, whatever parents or society might say. (No wonder teenagers love this show.)

Artistically, the production is unified and strong from start to finish. Its weakness mainly comes in some vocals, normally a fatal flaw in a musical but not here. McKenzie is an appealing lead and a deeply sympathetic presence throughout. I worried he didn’t have the power to put across the climactic “Totally Fucked” but in fact McKenzie came through in stellar fashion. While Durant has the turmoil of Moritz down pat, Alex Boniello couldn’t match him as the Voice Of Moritz (and fell way short of Tony winner John Gallagher Jr. who blew the roof off with these same songs). Similarly, Kathryn Gallagher’s bluesy mama take on the Voice Of Martha failed to impress, though in this case it felt of a piece with the unsatisfying work of Treshelle Edmond. (To be fair, the role is brief and not terribly interesting, though somehow Lilli Cooper made something of it in the original.) The great Marlee Matlin simply has little to work with in several one-note adult roles.

Patrick Page and Manheim were able to make more of their various roles, thanks to the many opportunities they had to give voice to others as well. And how did this work, with one actor performing a character and another actor sometimes giving them voice in line reading or song? In general, one simply watched the performer who embodied the character, while the voice or the singing did its work. Sometimes lines appeared on screens or chalkboards, sometimes they were spoken and signed, sometimes just signed but always the visual impact was clear and the doubling or tripling of a line was clarifying and powerful, never confusing.

Both Mae Frank as Wendla and Katie Boeck worked in synergy to create an angelic, sweet but troubled Wendla, the girl who felt herself confusedly aroused by the idea of punishment. The devilishly sexy Mientus and the innocent (?) Joshua Castille had great fun in the seduction scene “The Word Of Your Body.” And the winning McKenzie (an excellent actor) made you believe Melchior would rise above this brutal start to demand a better world.

And all of this discussion of individual performances underplays the overall impact of a show that is truly conceived and performed as a unified whole, with the cast moving in concert and reinforcing dramatic scenes in powerful ways. Arden and the design team work together seamlessly, building the story element by element, overpowering the melodrama inherent in the original play with sophisticated verve, creating a second act that builds on the first right up to a finale that really is a triumph. It was like seeing Spring Awakening for the first time. Or should I say, like hearing it in a new way.

DADDY LONG LEGS ** out of ****
DAVENPORT THEATRE

Few remember Jean Webster’s epistolary novel Daddy Long Legs. It features a spunky, winning orphan a la Anne Of Green Gables and so many other tales, but somehow hasn’t retained its hold on readers. A pity, since the book is a charmer. Still, it’s endured long enough to be made into a film at least four times (including Mary Pickford, Janet Gaynor, Leslie Caron and even Shirley Temple as our heroine) and presumably adapted for the stage just as often.

Those coming to this two-hander musical fresh will find it innocuously pleasant if somehow unsatisfying when all is said and done. Those who have read the book will be more confused, wondering how the essentially bright and witty tale became so quiet and rather mournful. That shouldn’t dim the pleasure of two solid performers doing their best, namely Megan McGinnis as the orphan Jerusha and Paul Alexander Nolan as her benefactor and eventual love Jervis.

In the show, Jerusha is”The Oldest Orphan In The John Grier Home,” as McGinnis charmingly sings in the opening number. She’s 18 and quite clever, industriously helping at the dour but competent orphanage where she must depend on charity for housing or brave the cold streets alone. What more can she hope for? Quite a bit, since Jerusha now has great expectations: one of the home’s patrons has decided to send her to college. Jerusha will go to school and have everything she needs paid for (including a king’s ransom of $ 35 a month allowance — in 1909, mind you — so she can “fit in”). In return, she will never know her patron’s name but must write to him as “John Smith” once a month with a report on her progress.

Soon Jerusha is off at school, making friends and delighting in the opportunity to learn (and buy pretty dresses; she’s not a saint, after all). She assumes her patron is quite old and grey-haired (if he’s not bald, that is) and has the idea he is very tall. So she dubs him “Daddy Long Legs” and writes him far more than once a month. In fact, her patron is the youngish and handsome Jervis Pendleton, the eccentric uncle of one of her schoolmates. Despite his better judgment, Jervis is charmed by her letters. Soon he is re-reading the books Jerusha is reading, visiting her with the pretext of checking on his niece and of course falling hopelessly in love. Jerusha quite likes this Jervis, though he is far from the only young man paying her attention. Yet her sad background worries her.

Could any man of standing approve of an orphan? And Jervis worries, will Jerusha forgive his deception? Can he get her to love him as Jervis before discovering Jervis is her patron and then perhaps, horribly, feeling obliged to marry him? Well, really, have you never read Anne Of Green Gables or Rebecca Of Sunnybrook Farm and the like? The pleasure is in getting to know the characters, after all, not the suspense of their presumably happy fates.

Daddy Long Legs has been turned into a movie at least four times, including the godawful musical version starring Fred Astaire and Leslie Caron. That’s a little surprising since it’s an epistolary novel and almost all the letters are written by Jerusha to her unknown patron. It is, essentially, a monologue. The charm comes in falling in love with this intelligent young woman and slowly imagining her patron is falling in love with her as well. The modest suspense comes in wondering if the handsome young Jervis and her benefactor are one and the same.

This show lacks that suspense of course: we know Jervis is her patron from the start. So here the suspense must come in getting to know him as well, along with his dilemma about when to reveal this double identity. Notably, the songs for Jerusha often pull from lines in the book and feel more specific and alive. The songs for Jervis must be created from whole cloth; time and again the music and lyrics of Paul Gordon fall short. Whether because of clunky lines or confused references to the Camelot tale of the Lady In the Lake or a never fleshed-out backstory of a broken heart, the songs and story of Jervis remain unsatisfying.

The problems reach their peak with his big number “Charity.” Suddenly Jervis is denouncing charity as corrosive, as building up a wall between the giver and the receiver, a wall that can never be scaled. Huh? This is bizarre on many levels. The story celebrates charity and in the case of Jervis, the noble act of charity has done exactly the opposite of what he claims: without expecting anything in return, Jervis has found his wall scaled and his heart opened by another. So what exactly is he complaining about? (The book by John Caird with its hints as to why Jervis is closed-off to feeling is surely at fault here too. We simply don’t know why this man is such an emotional recluse, despite a vague reference to him being dumped for a duke many years ago.)

The songs for Jerusha are better, especially when peppy. But the arrangements and chamber feel of the show emphasize the romantic and even mournful undertones of the work. Since we don’t know where Jervis has begun, it’s hard to follow him on his journey to love. When they finally meet, Jerusha’s anger and then abrupt declaration of love feels both obvious and undramatic. We know her well, but after two hours we still don’t know him. John Caird has provided a showcase for two actors, not a satisfying work.

And that takes care of the show they made. What remains are many confused questions about why they made this show out of this book. First and foremost, there is the overall tone. The novel is a delight to read. Webster’s heroine is funny and smart and self-aware. But you certainly wouldn’t know that watching this. Humor is modestly present but more often the tone is dramatic and serious rather than exciting and fun. Jerusha is a firecracker and that’s clear from the start of the novel. Instead of “John Smith” as requested, she calls her patron “Daddy Long Legs.” She plays with the form of a letter to reflect her many studies. (Something the show attempts poorly.) The focus is always on learning and how Jerusha discovers a world of possibilities. The real adventure is knowledge, education, trying and succeeding at becoming a writer and discovering oneself. It is not about falling in love and being rescued by a man.

In the novel, when she talks about seeing Hamlet performed for the first time, Jerusha drolly says this Shakespeare fellow really is good, despite her having assumed he was coasting on reputation all this time. It captures both her genuine excitement at seeing a great play for the first time, her self-aware lack of experience (she’s seen precious little if any live theater) but without downplaying her innate intelligence, never more exemplified than by her awareness of how much she has yet to learn. This understanding of her meaning is perfectly in sync with the cheeky, witty tone she sets at the start of the book. But in the show, the lines are split up between Jerusha and Jervis and played straight; we’re allowed some condescending pleasure at her naive appreciation of the Bard, a la Educating Rita.

It typifies the show’s confused attitude towards Jerusha. Yes, the novel will end with a conventional happy ending of marriage. But Jerusha is hardly conventional: she touts education for women, argues for getting the vote and expresses a rather shocking disregard for organized religion if not downright atheistic thoughts (in 1909!). So why when she displays her first new dress do we see a sparkly virginal white one that looks for all the world like a wedding gown, as if her only dream was to be a bride? Being a bride is quite the last thing on her mind. She wants to be a writer and a reformer and a citizen, thank you very much. The novel describes Jerusha first buying SIX new dresses — she describes them all and none of them are white. Yes, white is an appropriate color for a woman her age when stepping out, but seeing it sends entirely the wrong signal.

Similarly, the production design sets all the action in Jervis’s world since we’re nominally in the library where he reads her letters. Fine enough and it’s a warm inviting room for any booklover. When Jerusha heads to a farm towards the end of act one, the windows are opened wide and the light streams in to indicate clear country air. Good. But in the second act, those windows are left open throughout. I kept thinking, are we back in the country?

The one unquestionably dated element of the book is that Jerusha often calls her benefactor “Daddy.” It’s forgivable since she imagines he is in his eighties and never had a father of her own. But since we have modern ears and sense her benefactor and her true love will be one and the same quite soon, it’s creepy to readers of today. She also has many other nicknames for him so this dated wording is easily fixed for the show. And yet, bizarrely, they remain adamantly faithful to the book and have Jerusha call him Daddy quite often. (Yes, “Daddy” is easier to fit into songs but that’s no excuse.)

And finally, in a perverse reversal, they ignore the book — and indeed every other adaptation of the novel I’m aware of — and call our heroine “Jerusha” from start to finish. Now Jerusha is a horrible name and it was randomly chosen for her at the orphanage, just one sign of many that reform is needed. As soon as she gets the chance, Jerusha dubs herself “Judy.” Wouldn’t you, given a name like Jerusha? Even in 1909? She announces this name change in the third or fourth letter of the book. It echoes what every reader has been thinking and proves early on that Judy nee Jerusha is an independent, confident, spunky sort thoroughly deserving our admiration. And of course “Judy” works much better in lyrics. Instead we have Jervis singing about “Jerusha” and how much he loves “Jerusha” and adores “Jerusha” and we think, couldn’t you give her a nickname please? Jerusha may be the least romantic name around and since Jerusha herself changes it to Judy and every other adaptation has eagerly done the same, it remains unfathomable as to why this show doesn’t. “Daddy” is a little icky but “Jerusha” is downright unforgivable. Certainly Jerusha would never approve.

REREAD ANOTHER ** out of ****
THE BRICK IN BROOKLYN

Having recently seen the Gertrude Stein children’s book The World Is Round turned into a captivating evening of theater, I was intrigued by Target Margin tackling her rarely performed 1921 puzzler Reread Another A Play To Be Played Indoors or Out I Wish To Be A School. A stage filled with detritus from a party long over is the setting. The game cast composed of Clare Barron, Purva Bedi, Ugo Chuckwu (and honorary cast member and sound man Jesse Freedman) give their energetic all, led by director David Herskovits. It’s not enough.

If the title alone makes you wary, stay away. If you’re willing to give a talented cast your focused attention, you will be rewarded with some potent imagery, some poignant moments where leaves are falling and music is playing and emotion is conjured out of thin air.

But you soon realize the text is stuff and nonsense. Without some structure imposed on it by the director, without discovering some internal rhythm that makes it sing, it remains a disconnected series of bits. Snatches of dialogue, ideas proffered up then batted away, word play that soon becomes work — it’s all here, unfortunately, and nothing more. Still, one respects the attempt, the dedication to following wherever the author leads, especially when it’s clear that — as a dramatic work — the author has led you astray.

THEATER OF 2015

Honeymoon In Vegas **
The Woodsman ***
Constellations ** 1/2
Taylor Mac’s A 24 Decade History Of Popular Music 1930s-1950s ** 1/2
Let The Right One In **
Da no rating
A Month In The Country ** 1/2
Parade in Concert at Lincoln Center ** 1/2
Hamilton at the Public ***
The World Of Extreme Happiness ** 1/2
Broadway By The Year 1915-1940 **
Verite * 1/2
Fabulous! *
The Mystery Of Love & Sex **
An Octoroon at Polonsky Shakespeare Center *** 1/2
Fish In The Dark *
The Audience ***
Josephine And I ***
Posterity * 1/2
The Hunchback Of Notre Dame **
Lonesome Traveler **
On The Twentieth Century ***
Radio City Music Hall’s New York Spring Spectacular ** 1/2
The Heidi Chronicles *
The Tallest Tree In The Forest * 1/2
Broadway By The Year: 1941-1965 ***
Twelfth Night by Bedlam ***
What You Will by Bedlam *** 1/2
Wolf Hall Parts I and II ** 1/2
Skylight ***
Nellie McKay at 54 Below ***
Ludic Proxy ** 1/2
It Shoulda Been You **
Finding Neverland ** 1/2
Hamlet w Peter Sarsgaard at CSC no stars
The King And I ***
Marilyn Maye — Her Way: A Tribute To Frank Sinatra at 54 Below ***
Gigi * 1/2
An American In Paris ** 1/2
Doctor Zhivago no stars
Fun Home **
Living On Love * 1/2
Early Shaker Spirituals: A Record Album Interpretation ***
Airline Highway * 1/2
The Two Gentlemen Of Verona (Fiasco Theatre) ***
The Visit (w Chita Rivera) ** 1/2
The Sound And The Fury (ERS) **
Broadway By The Year: 1966-1990 ***
The Spoils * 1/2
Ever After (at Papermill) **
Heisenberg *** 1/2
An Act Of God **
The National High School Musical Theatre Awards ***
Amazing Grace *
The Absolute Brightness Of Leonard Pelkey ** 1/2
Cymbeline (Shakespeare in the Park w Rabe and Linklater) ***
Hamilton *** 1/2
The Christians ***
A Midsummer Night’s Dream (Pearl Theatre Company) ** 1/2

_____________

Thanks for reading. Michael Giltz is the founder and CEO of the forthcoming website BookFilter, a book lover’s best friend. Trying to decide what to read next? Head to BookFilter! Need a smart and easy gift? Head to BookFilter? Wondering what new titles came out this week in your favorite categories, like cookbooks and mystery and more? Head to BookFilter! It’s a website that lets you browse for books online the way you do in a physical bookstore, provides comprehensive info on new releases every week in every category and offers passionate personal recommendations every step of the way. It’s like a fall book preview or holiday gift guide — but every week in every category. He’s also the cohost of Showbiz Sandbox, a weekly pop culture podcast that reveals the industry take on entertainment news of the day and features top journalists and opinion makers as guests. It’s available for free on iTunes. Visit Michael Giltz at his website and his daily blog. Download his podcast of celebrity interviews and his radio show, also called Popsurfing and also available for free on iTunes.

Note: Michael Giltz is provided with free tickets to shows with the understanding that he will be writing a review. All productions are in New York City unless otherwise indicated.

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Lutz Huelle RTW Spring 2016

Lutz Huelle played with the idea of multipurpose clothing for spring. He put his draping skills to the test by granting trenches a little action around the shoulders and waist, in effect inching them close to dress territory.
 
He spun the idea further with handsome elongated men’s wear-inspired white shirts — cut out or pleated for extra visual effect — as well as a pair of fringed black blazers that channeled Charleston dresses with Roaring Twenties attitude.
 

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Balenciaga RTW Spring 2016

No choked-back tears; no drama. Backstage after Alexander Wang’s last show for Balenciaga, everyone seemed happy. (Wang had just chronicled his final runway-sprint bow for the house via selfie). François-Henri Pinault and Salma Hayek offered him smiling congratulations; he in turn thanked Pinault profusely and said, “I feel like I’ve graduated; it’s the last day of school.”
 
At first thought, odd phrasing; Balenciaga rings more pinnacle than proving ground. But then, what better way for a still-young designer to broaden his range, deepen his skill set and learn, than by clocking three years at a place with the resources and institutional creative rigor of the storied house.
 
The collection with which Wang closed his Balenciaga chapter gave evidence of such; it was the most ornate and decorative of his career — but decorative his way. It was about lingerie dressing in a single color, off-white, for cottons, silks and linens, but with an undone countenance and a street attitude, for the girl edgy enough (whose feet are calloused enough) to wear little-nothing lace bedroom slippers on urban streets.
 
The girliness, the sensuality, the intricately wrought delivery of boudoir-chic tropes were different for Wang, but he made them his own. Since his arrival at

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Tom Ford RTW Spring 2016

Tom Ford is rethinking the traditional fashion show concept with a little help from Lady Gaga and Soul Train.
 
Watch: Lady Gaga Stars in the Tom Ford Spring 2016 Video

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Haider Ackermann RTW Spring 2016

Blasts of disco smoke and churning techno announced a new, more tough-minded direction for Haider Ackermann. His fast-paced show packed a punch with its acid colors and punk splashes of white paint — a reprieve from the glacial, contemplative parades of yore.
 
“A gang of girls, but each one an individual,” the designer said backstage, describing a wish to convey a “strong” look for a “strange” world. His gang members strode out mostly in cool, low-slung pants similar to the ones in his terrific spring men’s collection. Her boyish trousers came in glossy satins, colorful shantung, rugged leather, shredded patchworks or black wool with grosgrain waistbands.
 
Pointy boots accentuated the rock ‘n’ roll mood, as did cropped leather biker jackets and vests, while tender touches included chiffon blouses with tight rows of frothy ruffles ringing the arms or the neck, or lined up on jabots. He poured his most girlish gang members into sinuous fishtail tank dresses in lustrous silks and pane velvets.
 
While Ackerman’s buddy Tilda Swinton was not in attendance, her turn in “Only Lovers Left Alive,” the 2013 Jim Jarmusch vampire film, echoed the mood of show. His pale models, some veiled and with bits of troll doll hair jutting

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Wanda Nylon RTW Spring 2016

Johanna Senyk sent a wide array of looks down her first ready-to-wear runway show for Wanda Nylon, with some — such as a gray jersey dress with a cutout back — veering sharply away from the label’s traditional focus on water-repellent fabrics. Even the format sent a message of change: Attendees were given white hard hats, the runway backdrop was scaffolding, and a welder made sparks fly to start the proceedings.
 
The lineup was a veritable mash-up: Trenches, in various colors and fabrics, morphed into a jumpsuit, wrap-around skirt and dress. Sexier numbers included a body-hugging top and leggings in black Lurex and a white leotard under plastic see-through rainwear. An eye-catching metallic iridescent fabric was used in various pieces as well.
 
The collection had many layers — literally and figuratively — resulting in a novel, if slightly confusing, effect.

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Dior Prepares for Spring 2016 Show

MOUNT STREET: The hills are alive — with flowers. Dior has erected a hill within the Cour Carrée of the Louvre for its spring show on Friday, piquing the curiosity of tourists visiting the world’s largest museum. Workers were seen Thursday laying sod on the structure and adding blue flowers.

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Vêtements RTW Spring 2016

Even Vêtements’ earliest adopters barely had a second to get there first. In March, the then one-year-old label was quite literally a buzzy underground curiosity. The fall collection was shown in the basement of a seedy Paris sex club in front of a small but influential fashion audience who heard fresh blood was in the water. A season later, the vultures have descended. A tiny label with minimal distribution now has a full-blown profile — you couldn’t even count one prominent glossy’s editors on two hands.
 
The draw is Vêtements’ antifashion, its way of manipulating the utmost mundane, familiar garments — novelty T-shirts, trenches, jeans and blue-collar work uniforms — into something with powerful, alien appeal. Demna Gvasalia and his design collective are serving the glossy fashion crowd a taste of something curdled and they’re lapping it up.
 
Held at kitsch Chinatown dining institution Le Président, the show opened with a nonmodel, average-looking guy wearing a yellow DHL T-shirt under a black short-sleeve button-down and shiny black pants. So seemingly ordinary was the look, he could’ve been there to ask someone to sign for a delivery. The casting in general defied the conventions of runway beauty with awkward, androgynously punkish models who

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Lanvin RTW Spring 2016

The Lanvin collection Alber Elbaz showed on Thursday night was a sartorial “smorgasbord” — his word. But not one thrown together frantically by an ill-prepared host. Rather, he sent out a carefully considered lineup intended to address the multiple requirements of fashion today. “We used to be designers. Now, we’re image-makers,” Elbaz said during a preview. Inherent in that role: delivering clothes that look good not only on the body and in the mirror, but also on the phone, in search of “likes.” He wondered about the role of fashion as entertainment — “not complaining, just questioning” — adding, “I have to show the extremes.”
 
And so he did, in a lineup comprehensive to the point of discordance, and often very beautiful. Elbaz organized his nearly 70 looks into groups — black and white, color, “body dresses” — with a logic not always clear from the audience perspective. With his first look he delivered a purposeful, almost tough rendering of a classic: white shirt, black pants. Other exits expanded on and toyed with that austere tailoring, sometimes in concert with ballooned organza or a sleek satin mini over sleek pants. Elbaz went undone with tweeds that had seemingly fraying edges —

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Tom Ford Taps a Lady: Gaga to Appear in Designer’s Runway Video for Spring 2016

LONDON — Tom Ford is taking to the small screen to showcase his spring 2016 collection, putting paid to speculation that he was skipping the show season altogether.
The designer has tapped Lady Gaga to appear in the film, a runway video of the collection, which was shot by Nick Knight. The online video will be released to some editors in the early hours of Friday, and everyone will be able to view it at 1 p.m. CET on the designer’s Web site.
Ford told WWD: “Instead of having a traditional show this season, I decided to try something new. I wanted to think about how to present a collection in a cinematic way that was designed from its inception to be presented online.”
Ford’s choice is no shocker. The designer-turned-film director is in full production for his second big-screen effort, “Nocturnal Animals,” and will be shooting that until the end of November. The film stars Amy Adams and Jake Gyllenhaal, and is an adaptation of the 1993 novel “Tony and Susan” by Austin Wright, which is a novel within a novel. The movie is due for release next year.
The all-star cast also includes Aaron Taylor-Johnson, Armie Hammer, Isla Fisher, Kim Basinger, and costume design

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Daniela Villegas Previews Spring 2016 Jewelry Collection

Entering Daniela Villegas’ Hollywood studio is like being in a curio box of sorts. There’s a wall of colorful butterflies, beetles and bugs mounted in glass boxes, and tiny quail and fish skeletons pieced together on wooden stands. These items are often the basis for her fine jewelry collection, which sells on Net-a-porter and in stores like Roseark for $ 1,875 to $ 39,000. Her “Backyard” collection, inspired by insects, incorporates real iridescent beetle heads with matching precious stones, and her “Rebirth” collection features tiny 18-karat gold animal skeletons with moving parts and gemstone eyes made from lost wax molds that are hand-carved in her downtown Los Angeles workshop.

For spring 2016, which she will show in Paris from Saturday through Tuesday, Villegas created more baubles on these themes, such as tiny, rose gold ants atop a tourmaline cabochon that looks like a cake on a lacy gold doily. Other items she pulls out of her red leather case include rainbow sapphire trapeze earrings and large carved pendants on delicate body chains. Her next collection will include pieces inspired by her recent trip to Peru. She toyed with some native woven bracelets that she plans to recreate with precious stones. “I’m always picking things up along the way,” she said. “My husband [furniture designer Sami Hayek] jokes that our

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Loewe RTW Spring 2016

“How do you get conflict in the clothes?” Jonathan Anderson mused during a preview of his spring collection for Loewe, his third for the LVMH-owned brand. “There needs to be a tension in garments to make them feel more real, less precious.”
 
A quick study if ever there was one, the young designer is shaping a vivid new template for the luxury house: immediate, eclectic — and electric. His open-air show at UNESCO on Friday morning, guests seated on shrink-wrapped concrete stools, was as thrilling as the weather was chilling — full of invention applied to wearable clothes.
 
Well, mostly wearable. Mr. Cellophane opened his show with a series of see-through pants, teamed with handsome cable-knit sweaters with sheer shoulders or a clinging T-shirt printed with Canada geese. While impractical, these trousers heightened the futuristic gloss that Anderson juxtaposed against more traditional signposts of luxury like suede and leather, specialties of the Madrid-based house.
 
The unexpected combinations created not only tension, but runway fireworks: silver tinsel spilling from one hip and one arm of a sinuous black wool dress; metallic snaps coiling around linen tops and trousers; and grainy, black-and-white photos of cotton plants printed on a Tyvek paper sweatshirt and pants.
 
To Anderson,

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Rochas RTW Spring 2016

Alessandro Dell’Acqua collections at Rochas are for fashion maximalists, who are die-hard about dressing up even as society swings ever more casual. His collections have been kooky concoctions of the hyper-feminine and ornate dedicated to explosions of color, cartoonish embellishment and insistent throwbacks to old-school couture. Fun and flamboyant, the clothes can feel at odds with modernity.
 
But they don’t have to be, as Dell’Acqua demonstrated for spring with a lineup that made the art of overdressing appealing and accessible for those below peacock-punching weight.
 
Dell’Acqua chose for his seasonal muse Gala Dalí, the wife of Salvador and a highly influential force of nature in the Surrealist art scene. That world of artful, amusing madness manifested in exaggerated sculptural bows; oversize black-and-white stripes; surf motifs and an improbably graceful and rich embroidery depicting a herd of giraffes under the rays of the sun.
 
Rather than multiply the decorative mania with daffy silhouettes, Dell’Acqua controlled with simple sporty shapes. Bows were placed on trim cropped tanks worn with slim skirts and the jungle and beach scenes appeared on slip dresses, tanks and on the back of an oversize blazer that was completely gilded over in front with lavish embroideries. It was over the top,

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Ilaria Nistri RTW Spring 2016

For her first presentation, held in the Cour du Mûrier at the École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, Florence-based designer Ilaria Nistri had models wear her spring collection while rotating as students drew and painted them.
 
Nistri collaborated with German artist Andreas Nicolas Fischer — she worked with photographer David Maisel for her 2015 resort lineup — and used the synthetic images in the collection’s unique print on silk georgette. “It’s coming from fractal geometry but organic,” she said. Shiny rubberized tape added a futuristic twist to the sharp collection, whether heat-sealed as a substitute for sewn seams or as striped motifs on matte fabrics.

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Alexis Mabille RTW Spring 2016

What do you get if you mix one part eveningwear, two parts casual attitude and a shaker full of fruity colors? The answer is Alexis Mabille’s spring collection, which was inspired by a watermelon cocktail called the Sandia Smash.
 
Lest that reference be considered a trifle lightweight, he also cited the drawings of Mose Tolliver and Alekos Fassianos as inspirations for his naïf watermelon print. A red sweatshirt embroidered with a semicircle of black pips, paired with a sweeping coral silk skirt, made for a witty yet subtle variation on the theme.
 
Some of the color combinations were a bit of an eyeful, such as a coral silk jacket with lime green and turquoise pants. Used in smaller doses, the zesty hues packed a pleasant visual punch. Shirtdresses, lace-trimmed blouses and high-waisted crepe pants all made for nifty additions to a summer wardrobe. And this fun, flirty attitude was reflected in the season’s accessory: a micro-backpack in duchesse satin that dangled from the waist.

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Vionnet RTW Spring 2016

It was clear after Vionnet’s spring runway show that creative director Goga Ashkenazi was out of her depth. She enlisted Hussein Chalayan — who had recently designed two of Vionnet’s demi-couture collections — to join the ready-to-wear design team in an ongoing contributing capacity, beginning with spring.
 
Chalayan’s input made a clear difference for the better, as the house pleating and draping was handled with far more subtlety on powdery goddess gowns and tops cut with a floor-length pleated panel down the front and paired with pants to signal evening modernity.
 
There’s always room for improvement. Chalayan is known for his love of the conceptual. There’s no telling if the sheer, full-body capes that were pointlessly worn over many of the looks were his doing or a collaborative effort, but the netting effect added nothing. In fact, it vexed in the case of the floor-length encasements that didn’t have armholes, as if the model had walked off wearing the dress and its garment bag.

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Anrealage RTW Spring 2016

Talk about a gimmick. At a time when brands stream their shows, Anrealage opted for a personalized high-tech experience that could only be lived in situ.
 
Along with sake, guests were served a pair of headphones with instructions on how to best enjoy the show: by snapping pictures of the looks, whose photosensitive fabrics reacted promptly to the flashes of mobile phones, turning the runway into an interactive happening. “Reflect reality [to make] a new reality,” was designer Kunihiko Morinaga’s mantra for spring.
 
To wit: A ruffled black dress revealed itself to be fluorescent green; gray, seemingly monotone knitwear illuminated the room with its turquoise stripes; and white top-cum-skirt combos with quirky circular cutouts assumed a three-dimensional quality, courtesy of the visual trickery.
 
Though fun and engaging at the onset, the exercise quickly grew tiresome — typical for the label, which is known for embracing special effects at the expense of true stylistic range.

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Anthony Vaccarello RTW Spring 2016

Edie Campbell opened Anthony Vaccarello’s spring show in an Army green canvas jacket, its pert collar turned up, and matching wrap miniskirt. Both were trimmed in shiny black leather and gold zippers and tacks that suggested functional toniness. Campbell has that posh English rose look that veers with her haircut (it’s currently a choppy shag) and is a known equestrian. Dressed in the trappings of well-bred money, she triggered an association: bourgeois.
 
Cropped jackets had a vaguely military vibe, and mini kilts, fastened with skinny black-leather straps, deliberately didn’t close all the way, leaving a panel of flesh for all to see. Skin is conventional on Vaccarello’s runway, which, in turn, made the relatively conservative crisp white shirts with porcelain blue prints paired with classic blue jeans seem almost outrageous. Those looks made more sense than the interlude of Pop: red and white sequined dresses with pixelated face motifs.
 
Vaccarrello’s point of view is ironclad yet narrow. Decking out his sharply drawn sirens in the standards of proper society changed his direction by only a few degrees. No matter the angle, it’s still sexy and severe, reliant on razor-sharp hip bones and ribs to accessorize the look as much as his sculptural

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Designer Inspirations for Paris Spring 2016

Influences on designers’ collections range from feelings — of romance, wanderlust, nonchalance — to sculpture and paintings for spring.

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Koché RTW Spring 2016

Christelle Kocher served up a potpourri of couture techniques and fabrics boldly mixed with streetwear silhouettes.The designer used her knowledge acquired at feather and flower specialist Maison Lemarié (owned by Chanel), where she is artistic director, to conjure romantic, ruffles shirts in chiffon, which she paired with loose basketball shorts.
 
Elsewhere, an oversized denim bomber jacket was embroidered with scraps of tulle resulting in a handsome camouflage pattern, while a sports bra festooned with colorful sequins proved a viable companion for a slick black tuxedo jacket and a pair of nylon sweatpants.
 
It took the eye a little getting used to these unusual combos, but by the time the evening looks appeared, the angst vanished and desire kicked in. Cue body-hugging tank tops and tennis dresses richly hand-crocheted  with rows of tulle, chiffon, lace, plastic,feathers, beads and sequins for – as Kocher called it – “a couture melting pot.” No coincidence then that the show took place in the middle of Les Halles, Paris’ inner-city mall. “I wanted to open my show to the public, and this place is perfect — a junction between suburbia and culture, two steps away from the Louvre. All cultures mix. Because the last thing I want

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Highlights From Milan Fashion Week Spring 2016

The spring season in Milan highlighted an ever-growing diversity (and editorial savvy) that ranged from Moschino’s scrub-it-clean camp to the lyrical nerdiness at Gucci that has the fashion world fascinated. And once again Prada set the bar, now with a gold standard that only started with the lips.

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Jacquemus RTW Spring 2016

Simon Porte Jacquemus had a terrible summer. While he hinted at personal strife backstage, he wouldn’t say exactly what happened, letting his strange, melancholic show tell a tale of burden, frustration and unfinished business.
 
He enlisted his seven-year-old cousin, Jean, to roll out a giant ball wrapped in red fabric, and later, drag a giant red necktie across the circular show set, occasionally stumbling under its weight. (Given that the ushers at Paris shows are known as “cravates rouges,” or red ties, was this a wry comment on the fashion system?) And then a white horse trotted out, symbolizing hope, the designer said, likening his oblique set play to a piece of Italian theater.
 
The collection was as naïve as ever: Navy jackets, white shirts and red minidresses and skirts dissected into halves, occasionally quarters, and bound to the body with white laces, red sashes or circles of white fabric — circles being a fetish Jacquemus motif.
 
As a spectacle, it effectively portrayed the anguish and ache of a young designer whose spring victory — scoring a 150,000-euro ($ 169,000 at current exchange) special jury award in the second annual LVMH Prize — did not carry over into an idyllic August. Meanwhile, the clothes,

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Preview Virgil Abloh’s New Take on Couture for Spring ’16

virgil abhol

“For me, Off-White is a diary,” says Virgil Abloh. Judging by the response Kanye West’s right-hand creative has had since launching the label back in late 2013, it’s a journal that a lot of people are keen to open up. Tomorrow Abloh will present the brand’s third women’s collection at the Galerie Joseph on Rue de Turenne, a lineup stemming from a simple, even stark, jumping-off point: the white T-shirt and jeans.

 



off-white spring 2016

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Photo: Courtesy of Off-White

For Spring ’16 (dubbed Off-Day), Abloh has tapped into fashionable women’s newfound affinity for dressing down. Gone are the days of Going-Out Tops; sneakers are a staple of the industry’s most boldface front rows. And so the designer came to re-examine the iconic combo, embracing tees—a garment that served as one of Abloh’s earliest forays into fashion with his popular Pyrex Vision styles—and denim. This summer he headed out to San Francisco and plumbed the depths of Levi’s 150-plus-year archive; for Spring he’s collaborated with the heritage brand on retooled vintage pieces, patchworking “pure denim that hasn’t been indigo-dyed, with jeans that have been worn.” Other elevations of the workwear staple will include a denim evening gown, while your basic Hanes shirt will find new life in pieces created in collaboration with New York City artist (and Alldayeveryday art director) Othelo Gervacio. The pair borrowed elements from the rich visual vocabulary of the Grateful Dead, repainted by Gervacio onto garments, ripped to shreds, and tied back together.

As Abloh tells Vogue.com, “I’m 35, I like nice things, I like special things, and I think the old way of couture has a different relation to culture. For me, a pair of jeans that are custom-made with a person in mind, that have all these details—and as a designer I can go down the rabbit hole and create something special—that’s the spirit that I’m trying to unveil in Off-White.”

Check back tomorrow for complete Off-White Spring 2016 collection photos.

The post Preview Virgil Abloh’s New Take on Couture for Spring ’16 appeared first on Vogue.

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Capucci RTW Spring 2016

Capucci cited a painting by Henri Matisse as the inspiration for its spring collection, which played out in a rainbow of vibrant hues. In addition, the label’s signature trio of little black dresses — which caused a scandal in 1961 because they were made to be worn without bras — were given a new lease on life in girly shades of pink.
 
The dresses were among the eveningwear options on display at Milan’s 10 Corso Como store as part of an event cohosted by Vogue Italia and attended by 84-year-old founder Roberto Capucci to mark the label’s second collection since its relaunch by new owners.
 
Cinzia Minghetti, who now heads the brand’s design team, said she had taken elements from the house archives and given them a contemporary spin. Capucci’s signature sculptural pleats appeared on flirty black skirts that were casually paired with white jersey tops. Meanwhile, woven ribbons in colors inspired by a 2001 evening gown were used as a decorative trim on dresses and tops.
 
Available in Italy at 40 points of sale, Capucci hopes to enter the international market this season. While respectful of the house’s heritage, the house’s new look proved modern enough to merit a spot in the contemporary arena.

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Cividini RTW Spring 2016

Cividini’s spring collection featured only a ghost of its signature knits — a cropped sweater or knitted bra top was layered on almost every outfit, in yarns so fine as to be virtually translucent.
 
Miriam and Piero Cividini used a white shirt as the base for most of the looks, proceeding to layer on garments in fabrics ranging from washed sienna linen to crisp cottons woven or printed with geometric motifs. This created mash-ups of pattern and color — mainly neutrals and earth tones.
 
Some of the prints had an Eighties, Japanese feel — as in a gray sleeveless blouse and skirt featuring a pattern of broken-up grids. Topping these with an extra layer felt like an unnecessary distraction at times. The knits worked best when left to shine on their own, for instance in the form of long dresses adorned with geometric motifs.

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Ermanno Scervino eyes soft, feminine silhouettes for spring

Italian fashion house Ermanno Scervino works layered lace, floral motifs for latest womenswear line. Rough cut (no rerporter narration)


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Teatum Jones RTW Spring 2016

After watching a documentary on Liberian peace activist Leymah Gbowee, Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones were moved by the words and work of the Nobel Peace Prize winner to create a collection in her honor. The result was a serenely beautiful spring collection, full of rich textures and bold prints in elegant silhouettes.
 
The Woolmark Prize finalists used fil coupé fabrics and raw edges to reference windswept African fields of grass, while native Liberian tribal prints were interpreted into a black, white and red graffiti print. An oversize check was done in wool jacquard in great outerwear, such as a black-and-white cape-cum-jacket.
 
The lineup was mostly finely tailored separates, with a few dresses in the mix. One fit-and-flare white-on-white wool skirt had a silver check woven into the jacquard that was teamed with a simple white cami and worn over raw-edged wide-leg pants, while a great looking white dress had seams picked out in coils of paillettes and tufts of organza.

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They Are Wearing: Milan Fashion Week Spring 2016

WWD went off the runways and onto the streets and sidewalks for the best looks from Milan Fashion Week.

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Ports 1961 RTW Spring 2016

Ports 1961 creative director Natasa Cagalj favors clothes that have a relaxed ease yet are sophisticated at the same time. Her spring lineup was filled with pieces that a woman can easily style herself. Shirts and dresses had ropes to wrap and tie according to the wearer’s whim. Some looks featured mismatched, detachable glass buttons, there for the tinkering, while pajama-inspired pants had rows of buttons down the sides that could be opened to loosen up the shapes.
 
Everything was infused with an airy feel, highlighted by the use of lightweight fabrics. These included a cotton poplin printed with several classic shirting patterns, as well as washed silk cut into slouchy suits and asymmetric slip dresses. Cajalj also introduced a playful element with separates and dresses done in cotton with a childlike blue-and-white print as well as tribal references via striped tops and skirts with an engaging rustic look.

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Moschino RTW Spring 2016

Entering a fashion show — especially one with a cult following, held at 8 p.m., which positions it as party time, in a pitch-black tent — is a hazard. There are traffic jams, detours, reserved parking (“you’re in my seat”), roadwork on the runway and general obstacles in every direction. In the interest of the quick-burn irony that now defines Moschino under Jeremy Scott, he made the veritable construction zone of the runway into a literal set, strewing it with an orange-and-white mess of traffic cones, barriers and signs warning of “Dangerous Couture Ahead.” So many people tripped over the heavy-duty cable protectors on the floor on the way to their seats, it was difficult to tell if it was part of the set or a legitimate safety measure.
 
The ruse allowed Scott to double down on the punchlines, playing on the notion of roadwork and construction, as in traditional couture garment-making. There were classic suits fashioned from what looked like safety reflectors in blazing orange and yellow; hats and bags that were essentially wearable traffic cones; hard hats, toolbox bags; over-the-knee boots inspired by traffic cones; and all manner of road signs made into wearable jokes: “Slippery When Wet” read

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Co|Te RTW Spring 2016

“Florals for spring, groundbreaking,” deadpanned Miranda Priestly in the fashion-cult movie “Devil Wears Prada.”
 
Actually, flowers might sound a tad boring for inspiration, but to be honest, how many women don’t like to adorn themselves with a fresh, floral touch?
 
Co|Te designers Tomaso Anfossi and Francesco Ferrari offered their very personal take on the theme, showcasing a collection where arty details were mixed with more geometric elements. Flared skirts and poplin tops were printed with graphic flowers in vivid tones, while a striped cropped T-shirt with matching pants combined nautical stripes with rich floral embroideries of microbeads and sequins.
 
Koi fish were also embroidered on tulle shirts, their delicate attitude contrasting with the strong appeal of miniskirts crafted from crocodilelike leather.

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Marcelo Burlon RTW Spring 2016

“I’m not a fashion designer — I’m a creative director,” Marcelo Burlon said at the presentation for his spring County of Milan collection, which took the shape of a dance performance and doubled as the world premiere of “Gualicho,” his new single with DJ Davide Squillace. “I like to bring content to the fashion world,” continued Burlon, who gathered a group of dancers, including performers from the Lido cabaret in Paris, around choreographer Kirikoo Des.
 
The avant-garde display at the cavernous Teatro Arsenale summed up the clannish vibe of Burlon’s elevated streetwear aesthetic. This season, his tribal references ran from the familiar — symbolism borrowed from the indigenous tribes of his native Argentina — to African-influenced beading and motifs.
 
The dancers mostly wore printed bodysuits that created a graphic second skin, but the look book offered a wealth of dressier options, from layered looks in monochromatic motifs to perforated leather pieces, such as a black bomber jacket with jet bead epaulettes.
 
“It’s about being smart in the market, bringing something that the audience needs,” said Burlon, referring to the label’s rapid evolution from a unisex T-shirt line to an upscale women’s ready-to-wear brand. “We’re growing up so fast that we’re always listening to

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Brunello Cucinelli RTW Spring 2016

“The most important thing is the materials,” said Brunello Cucinelli during his spring presentation. He was correct. Without the uberupscale assortment of crisp linen, wool linen, fuzzy “cotton fur,” raw cotton and silk, the collection could have passed for a variation on Club Monaco and its brethren.
 
The look was pristine tomboy sportif, loosely inspired by Années Folles in the Twenties with tennis sweaters and pinstripes mixed with Japanese-influenced ultrawide culottes that had exaggerated fold-over waists. Cast in a palette of soothing neutrals — ivory, ecru, butter and sand, punctuated by black and charcoal — the showroom had the aura of a fancy fabric softener commercial. Silky, clean and relaxed.
 
The lifestyle Cucinelli’s collection conjured was certainly appealing in its moneyed, preppy ease, as were many of the knits, T-shirts and crisp white wrap skirts and pants. But the cumulative effect of all the white and off-white with the contrast of avant, mannish cuts and hyper-feminine details can be neutralizing in a bland way. Unfortunately, decorating the striped trim on blazers, sweaters, pants and even tony shower sandals with the house signature (and slightly cheesy) silver Monili detail didn’t solve everything.

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NYFW Spring 2016: Style Inspirations on the Runway

An inspiration — a glance at a painting, a line of romantic poetry, a rebellious decade, a sultry locale — is just the beginning. Here’s a look at how designers’ muses translated onto the New York Fashion Week runways for spring.

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Max Mara RTW Spring 2016

What do you do with a drunken sailor? You button her jacket askew — and she still looks chic.
 
Max Mara turned seaward for spring, setting sail with a fresh, upbeat collection, yet one not without its peculiarities. Silky separates in a flashy rope print and a Garanimals-like star motif (big stars, small stars) were buoyant to an extreme.
 
But tailoring is Max Mara’s forte, particularly the coats, and once again proved covetable, dashing, refined pieces buttoned incorrectly to fein dishabille. Take your pick: Amply cut white trench over a striped T with extra-long sleeves; slouchy double-breasted topper in skinny stripes; sleek black pantsuit; lean sailor skirts and pants, some worn with lovely drawstring blouses.
 
The sailing ruse continued in primary brights, at times head-spinning; handbags with seagull imagery, rope details on snappy, sleek overalls and lighthearted T-shirts with a ship graphic by Brian Grimwood, who also designed the set backdrop. It was the same ship, only animated, seen sailing past through three porthole windows. It charmed.

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Francesco Scognamiglio RTW Spring 2016

For Francesco Scognamiglio, it was a short leap from the sacred to the profane as he showed a collection of flimsy dresses that he described as a tribute to the statue of the Veiled Christ by Giuseppe Sammartino, on display in his native city of Naples.
 
“When I see the Veiled Christ, I feel like I have a collapse all the time,” the designer explained backstage. “It’s kind of chiffon on the Christ’s body and it looks wet.”
 
How you go from a statue of a lifeless Christ covered in a transparent shroud to this hot-blooded display of lingerie-inspired looks is God’s own private mystery — in the words of Sailor Ripley in “Wild at Heart.” It felt disappointingly familiar, as if all roads inevitably lead to the boudoir.
 
They ranged from baby doll dresses to voluptuous chiffon gowns trailing detached ruffles. Elsewhere, ruffles were used to underline the curve of the breasts on a sheer gown, while ultra-short dresses in brocade or white mikado silk came with barely-there lace panels at the chest.
 
Scognamiglio, who is preparing to launch a couture line in Paris thanks to new financial backing from Malaysian entrepreneur Johann Young, felt he was treading a line between sex and

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Timo Weiland RTW Spring 2016

Inspired by “the early stages of love” and also weekend dressing, Timo Weiland, Alan Eckstein and Donna Kang wanted their Timo Weiland collection for spring to feel romantic, but more importantly, comfortable. “If it’s slim-cut, there’s a stretch to it,” explained Kang. “If it’s woven, there’s a lightness to it.”
 
Done in lightweight knits, cotton linens and silk chiffons, the charming lineup certainly exuded a relaxed ease. Feminine details added a softness to the looks, as in a denim ruffled skirt with a cutaway hem or mixed media knits featuring sheer floral lace inserts or fringe. Flower-print dresses and tops were juxtaposed against more streamlined pinstripe and windowpane patterns, seen on a pair of navy shorts with a mesh hemline. Even the more boyish pieces — such as a white cotton poplin shirtdress, also offered in a bodysuit — came with subtly sexy cutout shoulders.

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Danielle Romeril RTW Spring 2016

Danielle Romeril called her collection “Paradise Lost,” taking inspiration from images of Africa by photographers Viviane Sassen and Jackie Nickerson. The result was a collection that nodded to tropical dressing, but in a studied, off-kilter way.
 
The designer did a moody print of black palm trees on a white zip-up jacket, fringing the trees with raffia to look like grass, while an abstracted floral pattern woven in a green and white jacquard appeared on tops and trench coats. The designer also demonstrated a knack for cutting and draping, as in one cool, asymmetric sundress with layers of skirts that knotted together at the hip. It had a laid back, feminine appeal.

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Antonio Berardi RTW Spring 2016

Antonio Berardi played with the contrast between precise tailoring and romantic fluidity in this glamorous, yet easy collection.
 
The standouts were languid silk dresses with billowing trains, as in one racer-back number in a pale sky blue. That design was worn with a matching silk trench coat that slipped off the model’s shoulders, adding to the collection’s undone air. And naturally for a designer whose collections occupy high-octane territory, there was plenty of embellishment, but this season Berardi worked his decoration in a comparatively low-key way. A series of silk dresses were stitched with a lavish paisley pattern of sequins, but they were matte rather than shiny.
 
A masculine foil to the ultra-feminine creations came from tuxedo suits that were sharply cut, but worked into relaxed, oversized shapes. Among them was a gleaming white tuxedo with black lapels with rounded, cocooning shoulders.

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Pringle of Scotland RTW Spring 2016

Knitting – in all its iterations – was the inspiration behind this fun, artsy collection that drew from the work of visual artists such as Louise Bourgeois.
 
Head of design Massimo Nicosia – whose silhouettes were long, layered and lean – knitted fabric ribbons or leather strings, and used crochet and other classic techniques to create various shapes and sizes of webbing.
 
He also mixed knits with woven fabrics, as in a breezy cotton tennis dress that was adorned with a handful of white macramé flowers.
 
Lightweight spiral seam shirts had crocheted seams, while models wore apron-like tops made from knitted and macramé leather. Dresses were fashioned from a mesh of bouncy silk.
 
There was a guipure lace coat cut to mimic the look of a knit while dresses had a trompe l’oeil crochet print. Models, meanwhile, carried bags made from knitted leather shoelace-like strips.

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Roksanda RTW Spring 2016

Power and grace were top of mind for Roksanda Ilincic, whose elegant, confident collection was inspired by the ballet and dancers’ strength and movement.
 
Proportions ranged from the voluminous and sculpted to the long and sinuous, in a muted color palette of pale blue, light brown, yellow and blush pink.
 
Dresses and strapless romper suits were adorned with stripes, zips or geometric cutout shapes, while stiff ruffles flared from the hips or peeked above trouser waists. Giant, stiff bell sleeves – a Roksanda signature – flared at the elbow.
 
On the softer side, there were liquid evening dresses, some with flared, floppy sleeves and belts, and gowns made from hand-frayed, fluttery panels of silk, while stiff coats were covered with frayed bits of fabric mimicking those on the dresses.

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House of Holland RTW Spring 2016

“I’ll make the crowd dance like Kriss Kross,” rapped Lady Leshurr, who performed her song “Brush Your Teeth” ahead of Henry Holland’s show wearing a shirtdress and bucket hat printed with luridly colored foliage and bugs. It was an energetic introduction to a collection inspired by the 1998 film “Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas.”
 
The safari jackets, yellow-tinted aviators, Hawaiian shirts, striped sports socks and sports coats of contrasting panels worn by Johnny Depp’s Raoul Duke and Benicio del Toro’s Dr. Gonzo all made an appearance. There was a safari coat of animal print and contrasting panels of camel, navy and red; a playsuit with safari pockets in a Hawaiian print; a lace-front safari jumpsuit; a very nice pajama suit, and a plush blue coat as cozy as a hotel bath robe.
 
It was all wacky yet wearable, including a midilength mesh dress embroidered with menacingly large bugs straight out of a bad acid trip.

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Emilia Wickstead RTW Spring 2016

Emilia Wickstead experimented with voluminous shapes for spring, inspired by “The Women,” the 1939 film directed by George Cukor starring Jane Crawford and Rosalind Russell.
 
Working in a delicate palette of baby pink and vanilla cut through with mustard yellow and violet, she adapted the shapes that the film’s characters wore, notably the high-waist puffy shorts, which Wickstead interpreted into a playsuit in a rose jacquard that seemed almost Elizabethan in its proportions.
 
There was a rose-print gown with a Watteau train and a geometric-print full-skirted dress that turned into a cape at back. The volume was most successful when confined to sleeves, as in a beautiful peach dress in a spongy fabric that had crystal-embellished eyes at the hem – a motif borrowed from a look worn by Russell in the film.

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